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  #16  
Old 10-19-2017, 09:11 PM
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You may have to bribe Greazzer. There was a post where he said that he wasn't working. He sends you everything you need to reinstall and has a quick turn around.

Replace your primer pump. The car won't run right when air leaks into the fuel system.

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  #17  
Old 10-19-2017, 11:41 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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Another small point about the injectors... every time you R&R them, you need to replace the crush washer. The crush washer is meant to be used once and will deform. If you don't, you will end up leaking diesel.

Quote:
Let me note one thing that may be essential- the #3 valve (intake on cylinder 2) will not adjust into spec. the nut seems stripped, not only on the hex portion (can only fit the wrench on one side of it) but also on the valve. No matter how much i fight it, i cant get the clearance to close.
What types of wrenches are you using for the valve adjustment?

Dkr.
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  #18  
Old 10-20-2017, 11:47 AM
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i replaced them all as they came with the new nozzles

and on the wrenches, my dad had two of the original Hazet bent wrenches that he used on his om617's. i used them
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  #19  
Old 10-22-2017, 07:21 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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This is basically what you need... it is pretty much the same thing that Kent (M***s*rce) sells. If you have more than 50 psi difference, you will need shims to compensate. I have no idea where you would buy the shims. Perhaps Greezer can comment.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Injector-Nozzle-Pop-Pressure-Tester-High-quality-0-400-Bar-Pr-Gauge-/222060394684?hash=item33b3d4b8bc:m:m4J1buu_fHychDrQUcxGP2A

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Injector-Nozzle-Pop-Pressure-Tester-Genuine-AG-Precision-Eco-Model-New-/222353849789?hash=item33c5527dbd:g:96oAAOSwb0hZ3dUM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Injector-Nozzle-Pop-Pressure-Tester-Dual-gauge-Bar-PSI-/122433196785?epid=730275844&hash=item1c819652f1:g:WDMAAOSw2N1Zwdwg

Dkr.
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  #20  
Old 10-22-2017, 07:26 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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One other quick thing I would check ... you mentioned you have not checked the tank. Are you still running on 7+ year old diesel fuel? If so, I would try running the car off Diesel Purge on a 2-liter soda bottle or the like and see if that engine quirk goes away.

See here for the howto: http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm

If you are running off the old diesel fuel, you are wasting your time with all of these steps until the engine starts getting clean fuel. I would be especially concerned about re-contaminating the injectors.

Dkr.
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  #21  
Old 10-23-2017, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec300SD View Post
https://www.dieselfuelinjector.guru/

Mark is the forum member known as greazzer.
He does excellent work and did two sets for me.
X2, get your injectors straight via Mark. I'd love to pop test my own, but Mark does a fantastic job and a great price. Either buy a set from him (if he has them in stock) or send him your injectors, if you have time.
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
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  #22  
Old 10-23-2017, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinman View Post
my primer pump actually always leaks, and when i begin to pump it, it really starts pouring fuel out. This isn't normal i suppose?
No, you need to replace that. Bosch makes the replacement, looks nothing like your white pump. The new version is a small black cylinder, you just push it down 50+ times to prime the injection pump. It is spring loaded, and you don't unscrew it or anything, just push it down repeatedly.

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Originally Posted by dinman View Post
Sorry for my lack of knowledge on this car. I've never owned/worked on a diesel, much less a mercedes diesel. I'm only 21 so i have never been around these cars. my interest for them sparks from my dad owning them back when they were new, and it's just such a cool car to me.

so i'd love to get it back in good reliable shape. i have hope in this engine since the noise is intermittent.
We'll get you there, ask a lot of questions here, read up using the forum search function. Get a copy of the factory service manual on CD or better yet in paper.
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/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #23  
Old 10-25-2017, 01:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkr View Post
If you are running off the old diesel fuel, you are wasting your time with all of these steps until the engine starts getting clean fuel. I would be especially concerned about re-contaminating the injectors.

Dkr.
I actually ran all of the old diesel through it when i got the car. Well, i put about 2-3 tanks through it before doing the diesel purge in the way you mentioned. Did the purge twice through a "closed system" i guess you could say, then changed filters while i had my injectors out and was rebuilding them

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post



We'll get you there, ask a lot of questions here, read up using the forum search function. Get a copy of the factory service manual on CD or better yet in paper.


i really appreciate the help guys, no other forum seems this active, esp on trying to fix the issue. the AMG guys just say "go to the dealer" LOL


anyways, on to my CURRENT issue now.

So regarding the noise i started this thread about, i did three things, and now the noise is totally gone:

Oil change
Re-adjusted valves
Ran Lubro Moly super diesel additive through a tank of fuel

For whatever reason the noise is not there anymore.

BUT. I have a new issue

I have driven the car about 200-300 miles since last posting about this noise, and YES. I have developed another noise. I swear it is always something with this car. Just installed new speakers, and reinstalled my whole exhaust system in search of a more refined ride, just to be hit with this. The sound (to me at least) seems like either a pulley screeching occasionally, or the turbocharging is failing. Regardless, the car loses ALOT of power every once in a while. By a lot, i was trying to get up on ramps to put the exhaust on, and at full throttle i could barely make it up the ramps. My 0-60 time when it is feeling "low on power"? 24 seconds. When it is feeling normal? Have not timed it, but it is leaps and bounds quicker. I would say 14-17 seconds. Noticeable loss of power, but intermittent. Such as tonight, it drove perfect until i got into my neighborhood. Here is the video. I can't tell if it is coming from a pulley, or the turbocharger. Lets hope its a pulley

https://youtu.be/560nc3ORAvA
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  #24  
Old 10-25-2017, 02:33 AM
dkr dkr is offline
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Have you lubricated all of your linkages and checked the throttle for needed adjustment? If not, do that first. Push the ball out of the socket, lubricate each one with grease and then push them together again with pliers.

Dkr.
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  #25  
Old 10-25-2017, 02:39 AM
dkr dkr is offline
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These cars love to develop strange noises. Part of it is because the diesel engine puts out a lot of vibration and the sound travels in strange ways. If you have a component that is not entirely secured you will hear it and probably would not on a gas car. A side issue, I would recommend washing your engine bay so you can see if you have anything actively leaking which could become part of the diagnostic process.

Quote:
By a lot, i was trying to get up on ramps to put the exhaust on, and at full throttle i could barely make it up the ramps.
When this happens, try switching into neutral and push the accelerator. Does the engine rev up? If not, you have a throttle or linkage issue. If it does, you have some other problem. Is your air filter clean?

I would not necessarily put these two issues together. Go back on whatever you have been wrenching on and see if you left anything loose. If that doesn't yield results, check each component under the hood for play with the engine off and see if you can manually re-create the vibration sound. Also try pushing the engine back and forth and verify it is fully seated in the motor mounts. Also check the tightness of the belts.

None of the belts or pulleys should have any effect on the engine performance.

I would say the turbocharger failing is probably the last thing to inspect. Have you made any adjustments to the ALDA?

Also, I would recommend doing an Italian tune-up at some point. Find a highway or somewhere you can drive at high speed for extended periods of time. It will do wonders to blow carbon out of the system.

Dkr.

Last edited by dkr; 10-25-2017 at 02:53 AM.
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  #26  
Old 10-25-2017, 09:48 AM
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If you're getting a screeching noise under load and you seem to lose turbo boost, be looking for a leak on the intake manifold or some of the plumbing associated with it. Someone here recently was complaining of a loud whistling noise and low boost and had a cracked ALDA line. The turbo should be your very last subject. They're bathed in oil and have bronze bearings, so seizure is extremely rare.
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  #27  
Old 10-25-2017, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkr View Post
Have you lubricated all of your linkages and checked the throttle for needed adjustment? If not, do that first. Push the ball out of the socket, lubricate each one with grease and then push them together again with pliers.

Dkr.
Yes, i have lubricated them but i absolutely have not adjusted them properly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkr View Post
These cars love to develop strange noises. Part of it is because the diesel engine puts out a lot of vibration and the sound travels in strange ways. If you have a component that is not entirely secured you will hear it and probably would not on a gas car. A side issue, I would recommend washing your engine bay so you can see if you have anything actively leaking which could become part of the diagnostic process.



When this happens, try switching into neutral and push the accelerator. Does the engine rev up? If not, you have a throttle or linkage issue. If it does, you have some other problem. Is your air filter clean?

I would not necessarily put these two issues together. Go back on whatever you have been wrenching on and see if you left anything loose. If that doesn't yield results, check each component under the hood for play with the engine off and see if you can manually re-create the vibration sound. Also try pushing the engine back and forth and verify it is fully seated in the motor mounts. Also check the tightness of the belts.

None of the belts or pulleys should have any effect on the engine performance.

I would say the turbocharger failing is probably the last thing to inspect. Have you made any adjustments to the ALDA?

Also, I would recommend doing an Italian tune-up at some point. Find a highway or somewhere you can drive at high speed for extended periods of time. It will do wonders to blow carbon out of the system.

Dkr.
Good stuff


So yes, when in neutral, i have all of the power (or so it seems). When in gear is when it gets funny.

My #3 injector is leaking at the halves and also a few of my hard lines are leaking where they meet the injection pump. So i need to fix all of that. That is where 95% of that wetness on the engine is coming from. That plus me spilling stuff on the engine

Engine mounts are SHOT. At certain RPM's, i can visibly see my hood shaking tremendously. The whole car rocks side to side. I think i have an engine shock as well on the drivers side, no? If so, it is shot as well. I plan on replacing them ASAP just need to figure out how. I've done engine mounts on my E63 AMG so i doubt this car will be too much of an issue

Belts are tight, the PS pump belt is slightly loose and here lately my PS pump started screeching when at full lock when first starting the car.

I took a picture of the ALDA in it's stock state, adjusted it to about 1 turn CCW, did not notice a difference (this was on the old injectors). So, i ended up turning it back to around where it was when stock. It had never been touched, the little black cap had to be removed. I actually turned it back a little the other day, but were talking like a 1/8 of a turn CCW from stock.

Did the italian tune up last night

Actually smoothly sailed up to 90mph with no issues (except that injector leaking fuel)

The car runs tremendously minus this screeching/loss of power

EDIT: meant to add this. The wheel on the front of the turbo (sorry do not know much about turbos) does not spin very freely. If i spin it by hand, it will stop spinning within 3-4 rotations. Like it has more resistance. Most turbos ive seen will just keep on spinning for around 5 seconds. Is this just because most of the turbos i see are brand new, where this one has unknown, possibly 300-400,000 miles? Or is that not normal
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  #28  
Old 10-25-2017, 10:19 AM
dkr dkr is offline
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"Engine mounts are SHOT. At certain RPM's, i can visibly see my hood shaking tremendously. The whole car rocks side to side. I think i have an engine shock as well on the drivers side, no? If so, it is shot as well. I plan on replacing them ASAP just need to figure out how. I've done engine mounts on my E63 AMG so i doubt this car will be too much of an issue"

Ok, I would recommend getting Lemfoerder mounts. The job is not too difficult. There are some clearance issues with getting access, but you will find a way.

The fuel leaks can cause the performance issues you mentioned. The engine will be sucking in air where it needs diesel and while it may not cause damage, it won't help your performance.

The engine shocks are a luxury item. They buffer the vibrations of the engine while it is shutting down. They won't cause any issues while driving the car.

Dkr.
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  #29  
Old 10-25-2017, 11:46 AM
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If it were mine, I'd find a competent indy versed in the 617 OR an automotive machine shop and talk to them about what could be done to repair the valve adjustment issue. Perhaps metric motors could offer some advice.

Last edited by HuskyMan; 10-25-2017 at 11:58 AM.
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  #30  
Old 10-25-2017, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkr View Post
"Engine mounts are SHOT. At certain RPM's, i can visibly see my hood shaking tremendously. The whole car rocks side to side. I think i have an engine shock as well on the drivers side, no? If so, it is shot as well. I plan on replacing them ASAP just need to figure out how. I've done engine mounts on my E63 AMG so i doubt this car will be too much of an issue"

Ok, I would recommend getting Lemfoerder mounts. The job is not too difficult. There are some clearance issues with getting access, but you will find a way.

The fuel leaks can cause the performance issues you mentioned. The engine will be sucking in air where it needs diesel and while it may not cause damage, it won't help your performance.

The engine shocks are a luxury item. They buffer the vibrations of the engine while it is shutting down. They won't cause any issues while driving the car.

Dkr.

So, i'm totally on the same page as you now that it is not a turbo. Just drove the car to work, which is a 30 mile drive, about 15-20 of those miles being on the interstate. Held the car at 70-80 mph and it was as smooth as butter. The screeching noise is only there when below 20mph. If it was a turbo, i would think at higher speeds it would sound MUCH worse than lower speeds. Maybe im wrong

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