I see you put new braided hoses on the injectors, but what did you do with the last one? #5? I couldn't tell in the video.
She seems to shake a little at idle too, but that may straighten out when you get the valve straight.
The rack dampener adjustment as mentioned above, can help, but personally I might wait to do that - check first to see if you have an old one, or new one. I think the new ones are brass colored.

__________________
It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

The old injectors may not have been serviced, but how could you possibly know anything unless you STARTED with pressure testing them?

There is a range for pressure on the injectors and after that they need to be balanced within 50 psi of each other. If they are within spec, but not balanced you could have some funny stuff with your engine like you are mentioning. Also, you have no way of knowing the injectors are actually producing the mist they need and not just drizzling out diesel fluid.

At this point, you NEED the proper equipment or to get the injectors to someone who has the proper equipment to test and balance them.

Most of the original mushroom pumps leak. It's a cheap part and about 15 minutes of labor, so I would replace it.

Dkr.

thank you thank you

#5 just has the one running from #4 and then an end plug correct? at least that is how mine has been. Im going to check the valves before anything else at this point

thanks. i would love to test them, but where can i ship them off to? noone will touch them in the area.

Here are how bad the old ones were

https://www.dieselfuelinjector.guru/

Mark is the forum member known as greazzer.
He does excellent work and did two sets for me.

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

X2, get your injectors straight via Mark. I'd love to pop test my own, but Mark does a fantastic job and a great price. Either buy a set from him (if he has them in stock) or send him your injectors, if you have time.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

You may have to bribe Greazzer. There was a post where he said that he wasn't working. He sends you everything you need to reinstall and has a quick turn around.

Replace your primer pump. The car won't run right when air leaks into the fuel system.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Another small point about the injectors... every time you R&R them, you need to replace the crush washer. The crush washer is meant to be used once and will deform. If you don't, you will end up leaking diesel.

What types of wrenches are you using for the valve adjustment?

Dkr.

i replaced them all as they came with the new nozzles

and on the wrenches, my dad had two of the original Hazet bent wrenches that he used on his om617's. i used them

This is basically what you need... it is pretty much the same thing that Kent (M***s*rce) sells. If you have more than 50 psi difference, you will need shims to compensate. I have no idea where you would buy the shims. Perhaps Greezer can comment.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Injector-Nozzle-Pop-Pressure-Tester-High-quality-0-400-Bar-Pr-Gauge-/222060394684?hash=item33b3d4b8bc:m:m4J1buu_fHychDrQUcxGP2A

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Injector-Nozzle-Pop-Pressure-Tester-Genuine-AG-Precision-Eco-Model-New-/222353849789?hash=item33c5527dbd:g:96oAAOSwb0hZ3dUM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Injector-Nozzle-Pop-Pressure-Tester-Dual-gauge-Bar-PSI-/122433196785?epid=730275844&hash=item1c819652f1:g:WDMAAOSw2N1Zwdwg

Dkr.

One other quick thing I would check ... you mentioned you have not checked the tank. Are you still running on 7+ year old diesel fuel? If so, I would try running the car off Diesel Purge on a 2-liter soda bottle or the like and see if that engine quirk goes away.

See here for the howto: http://dieselgiant.com/injectorcleaning.htm

If you are running off the old diesel fuel, you are wasting your time with all of these steps until the engine starts getting clean fuel. I would be especially concerned about re-contaminating the injectors.

Dkr.

If you're getting a screeching noise under load and you seem to lose turbo boost, be looking for a leak on the intake manifold or some of the plumbing associated with it. Someone here recently was complaining of a loud whistling noise and low boost and had a cracked ALDA line. The turbo should be your very last subject. They're bathed in oil and have bronze bearings, so seizure is extremely rare.

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Power loss and noise: I like the idea of a leak somewhere that is bleeding off the turbo boost. I also hear some rattling, maybe the air cleaner? An old trick is to put some rubber between the air cleaner housing and the valve cover, a broken air cleaner mount works great for this.

Turbo spin-by-hand - sounds normal. Does it have any axial or radial play? Should be just barely perceptible radial play, no axial play.

__________________
Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

I'm using a short piece of radiator hose crammed between the air cleaner housing and the valve cover.

NO play whatsoever in the turbo. Ill check the air cleaner again, but i just put new mounts on it. My filter is pretty old though. Also the drain tube from the air cleaner to turbo does not seal well at all. Could this be it?

It probably is the cause of the rattling you hear.

The return tube is supposed to be secured at 3 points.

The nipple on the bottom of the air cleaner should have 2 o-rings IIRC to secure the top of the return tube, it should be a tight fit.
The nipple on the oil sump should have 2 0-rings to secure the bottom of the return tube, it should also be a tight fit.
The middle of the tube should be secured to the block with a bracket and bolt.

One or more of these attachment points are not up to snuff.

Definitely change the air filter, write the date it was serviced on the foam of the filter with a broad marker pen (as a reminder for the next service).

__________________
78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022