Here's a photo of my new Bosch 65 amp Al-117X alternator. Are the four bolts going through both halves supposed to have nuts on the bolts to keep the bolts from vibrating into the drive pulley? I recently saw an online video that indicates there are supposed to be nuts on the four bolts holding the two halves together..

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If the back alternator housing has threaded holes for the bolts you don't need any nuts. Put some blue loctite (or your favorite thread locker) on the threads.

Do a Google Images search for bosch Al-117X Alternator and you will see a lot of pictures of them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I wouldn't use locktite and I wouldn't add nuts. As long as the screws are tight, they won't vibrate loose.

Not sure what the issue would to not use loctite. Been doing that on alternators since the 1970s to include the Shaft Nut.
If you think you are going to have trouble getting them out just heat the area a bit with a propane torch and that quickly melts the loctite.

when I have had difficulty getting alternator casing bolts out it has always been due to rust and the fact that they are so skinney. I have seen the whole length of those skinney bolts that were inside of the hole rusted and tight all the way through.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Nuts are only used when the housing doesn't have threaded bosses. Threaded bosses in the housings are common on small electric motors and they don't vibrate loose in use. Not sure why you think the alternator would either, that type of assembly is extremely common.

Skip the loctite, it'll make disassembly in the future nearly impossible. If it makes you feel better at night, you can add locknuts, but it isn't necessary.

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Current stable:
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Steel threads into aluminum usually has the opposite problem of corroding stuck. But, wouldn't hurt to add jam nuts on the rear, and even Loctite them. I have bins of nuts so would done so faster than it takes to ask, if worried.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
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The only time you see a nut on these alternators is to hold a wiring clamp.
I've never used Loctite on an alternator. Instead I use anti-seize. Never had a problem with them loosening and you can remove them the next time you need to service.

The only thing that comes loose on these alternators is the shaft nut and that is due to them not being torqued properly after a repair.

Even if no one is listening loctite in the threads also keeps it from rusting.

This is not a recommendation but I have never used a torque wrench on an Alternator Shaft Nut.
If you go to an autoparts store for a rebuilt alternator they use an impact wrench to get the shaft nut off and swap the pulley and Nut to the rebuilt alternator and the Nut again is installed with an impact wrench. Rebuilt Alternators often come with a new self locking Nut.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel