I need pads & rotors on the rear of the 300D and the front may be getting close. Looking on Pelican Parts there are many to choose from on both, and rotor styles from vented to non vented to solid. Given the fact that this car is basically a grocery getter at this point and sees less than 3K miles per year is there a pad/rotor you would recommend if it were yours? Or what to stay away from?

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Brian
87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017
02 F350 Powerstroke 180K
05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K
08 Infiniti FX-35 40K
15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K
10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K

Vented vs non is not an option. Vented rotors are a lot thicker than solid rotors. Whatever your car is equipped with, you must replace with the same.

As for pads, you can't go wrong with ATE Ceramic. They last a long time and produce much less dust than cheaper non-ceramic pads.

Seems like a good time to flush/change the brake fluid if it has been more than two years since it was last performed. Also replace the rubber brake hoses if you don't know how old they are, after about 10 years they start to swell shut internally.

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1998 E300 turbodiesel

America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy!

You’ll be sorry you asked - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/385403-talk-me-about-brake-pads.html

There are only vented rotors for the front and solid for the rear as OE replacements. Ignore drilled and slotted options for your use.

Sixto
98 E320s sedan and wagon

Actually I think you would be satisfied with the plain old brake pads which run about $20. I have dust shields on my SD and dust has never been a problem with regular (they used to be asbestos) pads. I will admit that sometimes (and who knows why) they will squeal - even though installed with new shims and the no-squeal brake spray. When that happens I just buy another set - $20 - no big deal.

Have them mic the rotors and see if they can be trued up and still be in spec. I think my rotors lasted over thirty years and 260K miles and still I have not needed to replace the rear ones.

Genuine Mercedes rotors and Pagid pads is what I have on my the front brakes.

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1998 Ford Escort ZX2 5 speed - 279,000 miles My Daily

1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 202,000 - Pure junk
2000 Mercedes E320 Black - 136,000 miles - Needs repair

Don't forget to grease the screw and threads on the spring compressor.

OEM is tough to beat.

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'80 300SD - '83 240D - '00 E55 AMG - '02 G500

I went with the Bosch QuietCast and the Pagid rotors, they arrived today and I will install Sat. tyl604 no chance on the rotors, the left anyway. I don't drive the car often and someone didn't notice the grinding

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Brian
87 300Dturbo 180K #14 head still running R-12 SOLD 12/2017
02 F350 Powerstroke 180K
05 Chevy Express 1 ton w/Royal Utility box 120K
08 Infiniti FX-35 40K
15 Golf Sportwagen TDI 35K
10 Sprinter 3500 chassis with a Class A Winnebago on it. 56K

Actually, they (another parts site) do offer slotted and drilled brake rotors and I'm wondering if they're worth the $.......

At least one of my W123's rotors are down by close to .040" on each side and that means time for new .

? Do brands matter all that much ? it's just cast iron, non ? .

Any links to a DIY brake rotor job before I screw things up ? .

TIA,

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Zimmermann rotors are good. Have used OEM and Zimmerman, both come with coating. Price on Zimmermann rotors is also good

I've never been particular about the brand on my rotors.

My only comment about pads is be sure to match the front and rear pads. I put ceramics on the rear of my 500 SEL once and if I braked hard the rears would lock up.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Correct the rotor is just a piece of cast iron, I can't think of any compelling reason to buy above the cheapest available.

For pads, be sure to buy same brand/type for front and rear as was mentioned. Get ceramic pads if you want minimal dust, they cost a few dollars more but I think the clean wheels are worth it. If you don't care about brake dust, get whatever pads are cheapest.

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1998 E300 turbodiesel

America's Rights and Freedoms Are Not The Enemy!

Low quality rotors can be out of balance, out of round, warped, low quality steel can have hard and soft spots built into it, internal tension that can cause warping, even crack under normal operation. These cars are so old even very good quality parts can get found very cheaply in some times because there's very little market left for them.
Ceramic brake pads produce low dust at the expense braking power and early fade. You are trading you safety for vanity.

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CENSORED due to not family friendly words

I have had excellent experience with the ceramic pads....not much dust and excellent braking power, better than stock pads.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

THANK YOU for the responses ! .

I pulled the trigger for ATE pads & rotors @ Peach Parts .

They didn't mention ceramic so I'm hoping the ATE pads are in fact ceramic, I've been wanting to try ceramics for a while .

Yes, the endless dust is a problem for me, my wheels turn visibly dark in less than 800 miles of normal around town driving, I don't like being forced to wash the wheels at -least- once a week .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Always check for free caliper pistons when doing brakes on these old cars. If they are fairly hard to back off. Consider kitting them. Especially pay attention to this. If one sides pad is really heavily worn in comparison to the other side. If the caliper type is a sliding design make sure the slides are clean and lubricated.

Can be a brake hose causing that as well. It that case both the pistons will offer about the same heavier than normal resistance to being backed off. Then you open the bleeder screw a little and double check.

Or if the brake hose is really pretty obstructive. As you back off the second piston the first one you backed off may move back towards the rotor.

As for brake pads. Where dusting is not an issue. The older basically organic type seem to wear the pads. So you can experience longer rotor life. I have noticed all too often that cars of ours with harder pads wear the rotors more. Fading out was the organic types claimed downside. Yet I never had any issues with them in normal driving. I try to stay away from metallic type pads when possible. Also break new pads in easily rather than glazing them initially.


It may be hard today to get the older type organic pads for some cars. Suppliers like to sell the upper end pads as there is simply more profit in doing so.