OM606 still Nailing and I'm stumped..... - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

spock505 · #31 06-18-2018, 08:06 PM

Injection timing is fairly easy to do, and can help with any chain wear - from memory MB allow 1-2 degrees per 100k of miles.

KyleMP012 · #32 06-18-2018, 09:23 PM

I will certainly be testing all the aformentioned parts before throwing any more money at the beast (rebuild cylinder head alone wasn't cheap, plus all of the "while I'm in here's")I am slightly paranoid about touching the IP timing, as I dont want to disturb the seals and risk a leak...but if it ultimately came down to it, then I would tackle the job.

spock505 · #33 06-19-2018, 05:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyleMP012

I will certainly be testing all the aformentioned parts before throwing any more money at the beast (rebuild cylinder head alone wasn't cheap, plus all of the "while I'm in here's")I am slightly paranoid about touching the IP timing, as I dont want to disturb the seals and risk a leak...but if it ultimately came down to it, then I would tackle the job.

Injector timing on 606's with US spec is slightly retarded due to higher pop pressure v Euro models, 135/115bar respectively,if you have chain wear too this could push it back further.

Are you referring to the clear plastic pipe seals? if so, the pump movement of travel is quite small in relation to pipe fittings, maybe 3/5 degrees at most - plus the top filter fittings rotate.

KyleMP012 · #34 06-19-2018, 12:39 PM

I'm referring to the actual pump seal to the block. If I rotate the pump it will surely disturb that seal. All of the seals I have replaced were turned to plastic.

spock505 · #35 06-19-2018, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KyleMP012

I'm referring to the actual pump seal to the block. If I rotate the pump it will surely disturb that seal. All of the seals I have replaced were turned to plastic.

The pump seal looks to be at the bearing as opposed to coupling face, either way never had any leaks when unbolted.

Diseasel300 · #36 06-19-2018, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spock505

The pump seal looks to be at the bearing as opposed to coupling face, either way never had any leaks when unbolted.

He's referring to the O-ring seal at the block casting that the IP sits against. It isn't shown in your diagram. I wouldn't be too worried about causing leaks there, the faces of the block and IP are machined, so there shouldn't be too much of a leak risk. Check timing before randomly adjusting things. If the pump timing is still good (or even within a couple of degrees), it isn't the cause of nailing.

spock505 · #37 06-19-2018, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

He's referring to the O-ring seal at the block casting that the IP sits against. It isn't shown in your diagram. I wouldn't be too worried about causing leaks there, the faces of the block and IP are machined, so there shouldn't be too much of a leak risk. Check timing before randomly adjusting things. If the pump timing is still good (or even within a couple of degrees), it isn't the cause of nailing.

..ahhh okay, fair enough - what does the seal retain oil/diesel ?

KyleMP012 · #38 06-19-2018, 04:16 PM

I believe it is an oil seal, not positive though. I have never removed an IP (seems very daunting)

Diseasel300 · #39 06-19-2018, 04:18 PM

It's an oil seal. It isn't under any pressure, it's just there to keep oil from splashing out and leaking down the block. As I said before, verify your timing is off before even considering moving the IP. You can adjust a couple degrees by loosening the bolts and giving it a twist.

spock505 · #40 06-19-2018, 04:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diseasel300

It's an oil seal. It isn't under any pressure, it's just there to keep oil from splashing out and leaking down the block. As I said before, verify your timing is off before even considering moving the IP. You can adjust a couple degrees by loosening the bolts and giving it a twist.

That makes sense as others have cautioned around oil loss when timing live.

Low suphur diesel may not help, have you tried adding lube to the fuel to see if it quietens down?

Lots of additives out there although I prefer rapeseed oil, engine runs so well during summer months - its also half the price of diesel (here in UK)

Maxbumpo · #41 06-20-2018, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomnik

The description of Maxbumpo post #10 is not correct.
The copper washer is on top of the DV barrel sealing towards the holder.
Below the DV barrel is the element barrel without extra sealing.

D'oh! Good catch.

KyleMP012 · #42 06-23-2018, 07:06 PM

Well today I got around to the polishing all 6 of the DV. And the nailing still persists the same as before. So I attempted to advance the timing, however it is mechanically maxed out and will not advance any further, I got about 2 full turns before I felt the tension was too high. Unless the nailing is due to the timing being TOO advanced, I'm stumped. The car drives great, just gets awful mileage. If I floor it from a full stop I get a nice black cloud but that's it.

Diseasel300 · #43 06-23-2018, 09:54 PM

It's not uncommon to have the DV's cause the nailing for a couple hundred miles after you do something to them. Give it a few hundred miles for everything to seat and see where you wind up. In the mean time, try a healthy dose of cetane boost and see if it shuts things up. You could have poor quality fuel.

KyleMP012 · #44 06-23-2018, 10:47 PM

I have been running Liqui Moly SDA. It makes no differance....perhaps it's just loud for me, I'll try to post a video.

KyleMP012 · #45 06-23-2018, 11:06 PM

So I took a video of the nailing, but out if curiosity I took of the oil cap and heard a knocking noise....could it just be the nailing amplified by the head cavity?

https://youtu.be/OQRAjRbI4_k

And here it is at idle, with an almost squeek noise

https://youtu.be/fCp0Ve2sYOY