Air normally just gets compressed and decompressed in that line. So there is no signifigant air flow as such. It should be okay. You will know as soon as you drive the car.


It appears that over time some of the soot etc from the egr introduction to the intake manifold lodges in the manifold fitting specifically. Plus sometimes reaches the boost limiter. Since the time the line broke off there would have been air flow in that line with some of the egr gasses and soot etc. Was why I though to blow on it was a good ideal. The boost limiter could be directional. Is a possibility. When there is an obstruction it usually will be in the manifold fitting.

This is a great point, the pressure line fitting at the intake manifold and the over-boost control valve can get plugged up with soot, and then you get a sluggish engine. You said you can barely blow through it, to me that means a fail. I'd recommend you remove the fitting from the manifold and spray it out with brake cleaner and maybe push a bit of wire in / out.

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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC

Many on here including me have had Greazzer rebuild injectors. Reasonable price, fast turn around and much easier than sourcing parts then going through the learning curve.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Temporarily, you can use vacuum hose as a connector.
Typically, 12 psi is the max pressure the hose will ever see.

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78 W116 300SD 'Desert Rose' new as of 01/26/2014
79 W116 300SD 'Stormcloud' RIP 04/11/2022

I don't recommend a vinyl hose because when it gets really cold that hose becomes rock solid and can break from vibrations of the engine. Try rubber or something



you mean getting glow plugs out? OM617 don't have problems with plugs seizing in the head.


you don't really need any special wrenches. a small 12mm ratcheting box end wrench can be helpful but if you're doing injectors at the same time and removing the hard lines you don't need that either.

Yes, I'm sorry, I meant glow plugs. I was reading about glow plugs seizing up, perhaps that was on the OM603.

I haven't looked but you're saying with the injectors out it's easier to get the plugs out? It looked like it would be more roomy. I can't decide if I should get the injectors rebuilt. They don't have the sharp points sticking out, Kent mentioned that, but that's not a real scientific test.

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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

OM603 is not that bad but on the OM606 it's a nightmare



it's easier with the injector HARD LINES removed. I highly recommend rebuilding your injectors on an unknown engine. It will pay for itself and will improve cold starting.

I just had a thought. When I put in new windshield sprayers, pulling the old ones off was a bear and no way did the new ones want to go in to the old tubing. I put my heat gun on the ends of the tubing till it got soft enough to slip over, when it cooled it was on fast. I have enough slack to on the ALDA line to cut off a half inch and reuse. The rest is sound enough.

I can't recall if I had enough extra length on the sprayer tubes to cut off a bit, I think I did.

__________________
Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I suspect you’re right. At 135k, unlikely that many of the components have been replaced or rebuilt.

__________________
Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Be smart and send them to Greezer (SP) ~ they do need periodic service and he adjusts them to within 5# pop off pressure, you will LOVE the increased power and smoothness this balanced power affords .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

if its really only 135k miles the injectors should be like new. I'd check the glow plugs for function and check all my vac lines for leaks and go with it.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

You're saying the injectors nozzles should be like new if they've run 135K miles? I don't agree with that. Mine were in deplorable condition at 135K on a 1-owner well maintained example. 3 out of 5 were shooting a straight line of fuel and the remaining two weren't far behind. All had cupped, concave nozzles.



Henry

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1976 Mercedes-Benz 300D, Colorado Beige / Mahogany
www.hmclever.com

Did you do all the miles yourself?

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

No, got it in 2017 with 133K miles. 145K now. Very good original docs, most of the miles were put on in the late 70s and early 80s. Owner died in '01 or so and it went into storage until I got it from a family friend of his - it was in a sealed shipping container until they retrieved it in 2017, drained the gas tank and sold it me. The car is in excellent original condition, and I have no reason to think that poor maintenance caused premature deterioration of the injector nozzles.

-Henry

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1976 Mercedes-Benz 300D, Colorado Beige / Mahogany
www.hmclever.com

It's tough call. I called my mechanic, he said he has a machine that tests them, which he did, as I still have them out he invited me to bring them in so he could show me. The nozzles look flat, they all look pretty damned good.

Oh man, I would give a lot to know the maintenance history. The title trouble was almost a blessing in disguise as w/o that I likely wouldn't have interacted with the PO. As I mentioned, she said her father was a VW mechanic, "from the factory in Germany," I can only guess that means either factory trained or previous engineer of some sort at the factory. Their name is indeed German, and much about the car is in pretty good shape. The father owned the car for the first 20 years or so, and only passed away a few years ago. That's one reason she was so helpful with the title renewal issues, and they wanted her to jump through hoops. Wanted her mother's death certificate (they had proof of her father's death), inheritance distribution (she had not titled the car in her name after her mother's death), a letter from her 'personal representative' (poor man's notary, best I can tell) verifying that she releases interest. I sent her photos of my first trip (below). She said she was so happy to see her car having adventures in the world and that her father would be smiling that someone was restoring it.

So who knows, would a guy with the means and knowledge replace injectors at say, 80K? My car sounds a bit like you describe yours. The body has a few tiny marks but the doors all close with that lovely, solid thunk sound. Even the cruise control works.

OTOH, the tach does't work (it's on the list) or the clock, and the climate control is always hot. Vacuum is not good (definitely on the list).

But hey, working cruise control is like a miracle. Works very well, really useful on the long trips.

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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K