Those heat shields don't look interchangible.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Yes, having the proper tools that are configured as you like them is critical, too many modern 'mechanics' these days are just parts changers with little concept of how things work or the bigger picture .

I was in a huge junkyar yesterday, they used to always have multiple W123 & W126's. nary a one yesterday but, they did have a table covered with old tools from the junkers, some were good quality, I found an American made Milton brand tire gauge that works, sweet .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I took my mechanic buddy Ky up on his offer to show me the injector test, vid below. He said he thought those shields would work. The larger hole models are close to 1/64" less in OD. All of the shields for sale at Pelican look to be that type. Not getting any luck on a web search regarding the difference. I dropped one of the old ones behind the pump, haven't looked for it yet, I understand it can be tough to find stuff there. I've read of guys reusing them, using a ball bearing and socket to flex them slightly. I think that was for these. Not sure how to do that.

At the end he put in a bad one to test, I was watching pretty close to make sure mine were a distinct bundle. Little bit hard to see the squirt.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uLxleMFcUc

Second vid is of the 350SD he's selling, the nicer of the two he has. He said he might as $9K for it. If I win the lottery... Might be fun.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyKfTc8fnF0

He has a couple of 617s he's saving to put into something, also a 616 attached to a 4 speed.

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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

I have a soft spot for a 325iX. Capable snow machine

Hate the forward opening hood though.

This test is good enough. if your injectors pass then you don't need rebuilding.

Wow, he's fast .

? What pressure did they all pop at ? .

Looked pretty low to me .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Didn't ask about that.

__________________
Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

Never drove one of those. I heard mixed reports - extra weight and complexity. If I lived in a snowy region would be much different.

The hood got old in a hurry. First time I swapped the timing belt I took the hood off. And then, whoa, getting it back on is a PITA. I eventually had to rig up a way to hang it down from my garage door opening. I got to where I could do it with the hood in place but not fun.

The MBZ extra wide hood opening is like the polar opposite.

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Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

The pop off pressure is critical ~ so important in fact that I have the injectors in my 240D done by greazzer because he does them all to within 5 # of each other and this makes for a smooth running engine .

The good fine mist spray pattern is nice and important but smoking is caused more by low pop off pressure, I learned this from a fellow who use to be here who didn't ken the fine mist aspect of fuel injectors but had a nifty home brew rig that he used to set the injectors on my first 300CD (NA) to perfect pop off , he also used dental tools to ream the injector nozzles so they sprayed like tiny fire hoses, yet the car didn't smoke and started easily in 40 degree weather on 1/2 crank .

DO NOT DO THIS ! you need the fine mist spray pattern .

This is a delicate thing, your engine and fuel injection system ~ take the injectors to any Heavy Duty Diesel hp and they'll pop test them correctly and give you the exact pop off pressures .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Put it all back together. Reamed the glow plug chambers, got quite a bit of carbon out, maybe not as much as Kent spoke of on some that he had done. As I still had the injectors out I used compressed air to blow it out, taking care to keep the cover over the pump well in place.

OMG, it runs a lot better. Huge difference. The turbo works now. I can't swear though that it's as perky as my departed '81 300SD. My mechanic thinks that the 300SD had a slightly better motor setup all in all. Seems unlikely somehow, I mean the engines are identical aren't they?

As luck would have it, we're in a cold spell now. 65 during daylight, 37 last night when I fired it up. Hadn't run in a few weeks and it started right up, this after bleeding the lines. It was about this temp during one of my lengthy difficult start experiences up in WA state in Dec.

Numerous smaller tasks ahead. The tach and clock don't work, the rear windows do a snap-snap noise at the end of close, got to adjust something, I did it once, I forget. One of the hood hinges is in bad shape, the hood open cable needs help. Most important I still need to get on top of the vacuum issues.

__________________
Te futueo et caballum tuum

1986 300SDL, 362K
1984 300D, 138K

where I live in winter my 300SE can get dicey (single tire fire at stoplights, wheelspin at 30 mph etc...) and 325ix system is simpler than w124 4matic for example.



engine shutoff, transmission vacuum lines:


https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Engine/617/07_1-150.pdf


central locking:


https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12265/disc_2/program/Chassis/80-900.pdf