Nice job. I hate rust

That is lookin good!

When it gets time to paint, or coat it in something. I can't recommend enough something like "Rust Bullet"- Amazon, or Miracle Paint(Ebay, or Bill Hirsch). It drys because of moisture, so even on a wet day. Hardens like shiny smooth concrete. Yet somehow not brittle.. Way better than cheap black paint.. Both work amazingly well. The combo of one of these epoxy paints, a welder, and some fiber glass means you can do almost anything..

Needless to say use a respirator.

I'm going to start sounding like an advertisement for Eastwood, but here's what I'm using.

Eastwood Brushable Seam Sealer (on all welded seams)

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brush-on-seam-sealer-quart.html

Rust Encapsulator Plus

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-plus.html

And for the box sections of the body, Internal Frame Coating.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-internal-frame-coating-14oz-aerosol.html


Depending on how the Rust Encapsulator looks, I might paint over it with something else.

I'm using Kilmat 80 mil sound deadening material on the floor and over the transmission tunnel. If I have enough I'll add it to the doors.

https://kilmat.com/

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

Great thread. Thanks for posting. Are you cutting the metal out with a regular cut off grinder? And did you cut the hole and then trace the outline of the hole onto the new metal and cut the new piece to fit that way? Thanks.

Overlay the new patch piece first and mark where the cuts need to be, use an electric cutting tool and USE GOGGLES OR A FULL MASK ! . .

I didn't *just*once* and now my right eye has steel chips in it that make focusing hard...

MEASURE THRICE ! . cut only once or you'll be learning how to butt weld .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Oh I was planning to butt weld everything. I have not looked at how the original rocker panels are attached yet, though.

Thanks for the reminder about Goggles.

The inside of auto glass is laminated with plastic film to reduce injury to occupants. That is why the sparks from grinding can melt it.

Would it have been easier to just cut out the entire panel and put the new one in? More welding, less fabrication perhaps?

Actually safety glass is two layers of glass with plastic in the middle.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Only the windshield is laminated, all the rest are tempered and will break into pebbles .

No plastic coating .

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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Yes and the windshield has plastic on the inside to protect your face.

I cannot see little metal flecks from a grinder embedding themselves in regular tempered glass. Been wrong before, though.

O.k., I'm old so maybe things have changed, please tell me what vehicle has this inside plastic coating because no Mercedes up to 1997 has it .

-Nate

This thread brings back memories of my 300D rust repair. My car was worse, but in end it was a worthwhile project. As this one will be.
Once the floors are fixed, keep looking! Hood hinge pockets, frame rails front and back, sunroof drains, more that I have forgotten. For what it's worth, check pics in bodywork or restoration subforums. Should be pics still there.

Here is the link: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/restoration-projects-long-term-builds/361530-restoration-my-85-300d.html

Shop's pictures here: http://www.lastchanceautorestore.com/gallery_completed/gallery.php?vid=1985_Mercedes_300D
Mine in original thread.

A huge undertaking, well done!

In your first post you mention water in the rear foot-well. While the rust from the battery tray in your case can definitely be a cause, keep in mind that on the W123 with no rust issues this can still happen with the cause being a bad windshield seal.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

So, I'm in stay at home mode. I could violate the governor's order, but I'm gonna stay put. The garage I'm renting is attached to someone's house and his kids are in and out all the time.

Someone asked a bit ago about my welding setup. I snapped these pictures last time I was at the garage.





I bought this rig off a guy on Craigslist about five years ago. The welder wouldn't penetrate anything and I ended up replacing the rectifier. Everything has worked perfectly after that.

I run 75/25 Argon/C02 mix out of that little bottle in the back.

I've been using .030 wire, but have been wanting to go to .027.

__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

I knew it was rust in behind the battery because when I removed the batter I could fit my hand in the hole behind it. I didn't have time to weld in a proper panel so I cut out all the rust, treated the metal and put in a fiberglass patch.

__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]