This is where I'm going to start tomorrow.

I know for a fact the pump was functional as it ran a few days prior. I locked the STOP lever in the off position while doing a piston soak and rebuilding injectors. Now it acts as if the STOP lever is still in the off position although it is not.

As far as my previous governor issues, it wasn't the governor. The previous owner had cranked up the throttle stop to get the car to idle. Once I backed it off, it wouldn't maintain idle (bad misfire... injectors were trashed) but would rev snappy and not hang up.

If the rack is moving, I'll do an internal pump soak and pull/clean the delivery valves. Based on how it is acting though, I'm pretty certain it is something just stuck due to being held in the STOP position for days.

We'll see tomorrow.

Others things that can be a problem with poor injection pump out put at starting,
Slow cranking speed
too thick of oil for temp. pump will not go into start mode.
hand pump sucking in air. Engine will start fine intill opening system.
injectors set too high for worn pump.
Have experienced all of these items.

I have SUCCESS!

Came home from work tonight and figured I'd tinker a bit. Gave it a glow cycle... cranked it over for a bit (still had a line loose) and got a sputter.

I was surprised so I got out and tightened the line. Gave it another glow cycle and cranked on it a bit. It took a good bit but kicked off with a big cloud and ran smoothly.

I let it come up to operating temp and it seems to run ok. Hazing pretty good (likely residue from the piston soak) and sitting for 6 years.

I then noticed the fuel in my fuel can was now an interesting shade of orange. I'm assuming its from sludge in the pump.

I shut it down and decided to go on and pull the delivery valves and clean them up one at a time. Each was caked with an orangeish sludge. I cleaned them all up by hand and re-installed. Using the hand primer, I then filled the pump with Diesel Purge. It's the strongest solvent I've got at the house and didn't feel like going anywhere.

I'll let it sit overnight and then pump it out by hand and see what comes out. I'll pump it full of fresh fuel tomorrow afternoon and see if it starts any easier.

Thanks for the help.

So its 14F outside... one glow cycle and hit the key and it fires nearly instantly. Must give it throttle to start but it does so without smoke and quickly.

No air intrusion or anything.

Now the odd part... thenwarmer the engine gets, the harder it is to start which makes me think injection pump.

It runs fine when warm... doesn't stall or anything weird... but if its shut off for 10 minutes when warm, it doesn't want to restart. Just cranks and cranks but no smoke. I'm thinking the pump is too loose... clearances are opening up as temp increases and it can't build pop pressure by cranking speed alone when warm. May also explain why it won't start without giving it throttle no matter what.

I think I need to track down a good pump that hasn't been ran on veggie oil.

The difference between a cold start and a warm start is just the glow plugs coming on when water jacket is cold.
Warm start no assistance to fire especially if compression is a bit low and would require more cranking to start.

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92 e300d2.5t
01 e320
05 cdi
85 chev c10

Problem is this isn't a "struggling to ignite the fuel" problem... this is a "not getting any fuel" problem.

Its literally acting like its not getting any fuel at all when warm. No haze or smoke... no spitting and sputtering.. no smell out of the exhaust of unburnt fuel... nothing at all when cranking once warm.

In other diesels I own, this is an indicator of an overly worn injection pump not being able to build pop pressure at cranking speed once the pump and fuel in the pump are warm.

Lift pump check valves are worn.

A good IP is pretty dang easy to find for like 100-200 bucks.

Although might be a good time to put that towards a super pump if thats the type of thing that peaks your interest.

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Warm start problems on these cars can sometimes be vacuum problems. If the car isn't getting fuel when you go to restart it when warm then the problem could be your vacuum switch on your ignition lock isn't working properly and allowing the shutoff valve on the injection pump to work properly. Next time the car doesn't start when warm, remove the brown vacuum line to the shutoff valve and try again.

In addition to the vacuum trick, when the engine is warm, pump the primer. If it has little resistance and you can't build up to the relief pressure then you know its a fuel supply, lift pump or relief valve issue.


If the pump is worn to the point it can't produce pop pressure, you would be "making oil" in the crankcase as fuel leaks past the pumping elements.

I'll tale a look into these suggestions.

Doesn't appear to be making oil.

I've got a lift pump rebuild kit laying here. I'll go on and go through the lift pump just to be sure.

Thanks for the input!

Test worth the effort? Start the engine on vegatable oil. Get it warmed up and shut down. Restarts easily the viscosity of the hot vegatable oil remains higher than hot diesel fuel. Many ex WVO burners had this problem when put back on diesel fuel in the day.Cooling down the injection pump with water is not recommended.

Also although I do not think it is your case. Excessive engine blowby will shut down the injection pump. At hot idle engine should not launch a loose oil filler cap.

Could also be an obstructed crankase breathing system. You could also be building vacuum in the fuel tank with a blocked tank vent hose. Leave the fuel cap off to test for this. It is probably the injection pump but you want to make sure.

Poster already mentioned about the bad ignition switch valve. Most are long shots but takes no time to clear them.

At least you know what you are doing.In the day young fellows would burn WVO and when the problems started would ask for help. The problem was most of them at best had only changed a flat tire. That was about the total extent of their mechanical experience on cars.

The oil cap barely wiggles at hot idle when loose (although it is leaking oil at the cap).. but no pressure behind it. Crank case vent seems fine.

Another thing to keep in mind is that it will not start at all unless the pedal is pushed. Does not produce enough fuel to fire. Acts as if it isn't getting any fuel at all. No smoke.. nothing. Hits nearly instantly when cold if the pedal is held down. Let off the pedal and it drops to an idle.

As the engine warms up... it struggles to restart. The warmer it gets... the worse the problem gets until it wont start at all. Acts just like its not getting fuel. (I had seen a few threads on this issue from WVO users which leads me to think I need to swap the pump)

I did snag a used pump. It'll be here sometime this week. If the simple things don't pan out, I'll swap it. 200k mile pump with a 90day warranty for $100. Figured it was worth the cost.

I'll still give the easy stuff a shot... but will likely change the pump considering how disgusting the delivery valves were. I don't mind the effort and at least it eliminates a big question mark.

A 200K injection pump only run on diesel fuel. Is a steal of a deal in my books at 100.00. Most sourced used pumps for these turn out to be good.

As for having to add pedal to get it started. If the delivery valves are really crudded up. It may reduce available injector pressure. Requiring more fuel needed to increase it. Just something I have suspected for some time.Perhaps about the same effect as bad element sealing..

I once toyed mentally with a way to verify the state of the delivery valves. By making certain the element was in the feed position. Then doing a pressure leakdown test back through the hard line. With the injection pump on the car. Using a pop tester and fittings. Over time there had been too many unresolved hot idle issues.

The delivery valves were definitely nasty... but all cleaned up and were not sticking (after being cleaned).. nor do they have any play between the components. Just smooth movement. No real change to how it starts.

I'm pretty certain at this point that I'm going to bite the bullet and swap the pumps just to eliminate it from the equation. Knowing what the components looked like when I opened it up.. knowing the crap I pulled from the fuel tank (about 10lbs of solidified veggie and fat).. I'm sure the pump is a problem.. maybe not all of it.. but at minimum, some of it.