Brake Pad Selection - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#1 04-15-2003, 07:19 PM

The time has finally come, and I need new brake pads. After looking on FastLane, I have noticed that there are several brands of pads. It also lists pads for a Bendix caliper, and my chassis number fits into this catagory, so does this mean that I need to get the pads in that catagory? Would the ATE pads be the best bet? All I am after is OEM quality pads. It looks like there is a pad on there that has the star on it, so I am guessing those would be OE pads, would those be a better choice? Also don't I need a total of 4 sensor, 2 for each side on the front, and none in the rear?

I will proablly also get the rotors turned, if they are in bad enough shape...

#2 04-15-2003, 07:23 PM

Normal Raysbestos. They seem to work well enough.

Motorhead · #3 04-15-2003, 10:54 PM

go ATE pads. They don't ever squeak! And yes you need four sensors with none in the back. Look on your caliper casting and it will say ATE or Bendix.

#4 04-15-2003, 11:18 PM

I think I will go ahead and order some ATE pads in a few weeks. The wear indicator light only came on the other day, and doesn't stay on that much, so I am hoping I can get by for another few weeks without replacing them

Brad123D · #5 04-16-2003, 01:42 AM

General comments about rotors...

I think it is always good practice to turn rotors when replacing pads even if they look good. Rotors can, and do wear unevenly during normal use. Also, the pads should "Brake in" better/quicker" with a fresh, true surface and a "Non-directional" finish put on them.

The Warden · #6 04-16-2003, 03:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Motorhead
go ATE pads. They don't ever squeak!

I beg to differ...I have ATE pads on my car, and there's a real bad squeak. The weird thing is that it occurs whenever I have partial brakes applied; if I hit the brakes hard, I don't get the noise. The pads are a couple of months old, and have been doing this since new.

Otherwise, they've been working great.

I'll need to replace the front calipers next time I do the brakes, though...

samiam4 · #7 04-16-2003, 01:22 PM

"
I think it is always good practice to turn rotors when replacing pads even if they look good. Rotors can, and do wear unevenly during normal use. Also, the pads should "Brake in" better/quicker" with a fresh, true surface and a "Non-directional" finish put on them"

Not true- do some technical paper reading with SAE. Mercedes does not recommend routine grinding of brake rotors with pad replacement. You get better braking after a short(few stops) break-in(they have tested it!!!!). I think the parts and service industry has lead the way in this thinking... kinda like change your oil and filter every 3000 miles.

Follow the manual, or if you have a copy of Stu Ritter's 124 bible-that gives a nice write up. Do measure them for minimum thickness and run-out. While you've got the dial-indicator out- check the wheelbrgs too=)

I will only use Textar(yellow boxes) on my cars. When you have had a car which is being a squeeky beast, you learn. Some are more forgiving than others.

Make sure you clean the caliper rubbing areas and lubricate with MB brake paste(aka anti-sieze).

Michael

#8 04-16-2003, 02:50 PM

Ok, I will use the Textar. It looks like there are 2 different Textar pads on FastLane, one has the star, and the other doesn't.

I might still get the rotors turned, depending on how they look when I go and put the pads on. Most of the time when I have done brake jobs, or helped people do brake jobs, the rotors didn't need to be turned.

Brad123D · #9 04-16-2003, 03:13 PM

Samiam4,
You are probably correct that MB would like us to buy new rotors for all our cars($$$). And it is true on the later model cars that MB says you should not have the rotors turned but replaced(More $$$).

The factory 123 manual states-"If the lateral runout of the brake disc is too high...(runout max. 0.12, wear limit 8.3 ) Renew brake disc, if required."

Haynes 123 series manual states- "Any variation over 0.0005-inch may cause pedal pulsation...the rotor can be removed and taken to an automotive machine shop for resurfacing."(page 165)

The Warden · #10 04-16-2003, 03:21 PM

FWIW, on the rotor turning, I had my front rotors turned, and from the best I can tell have had no problems. The rears were replaced.

(and, before the question's asked, the squealing's coming from the rear)

rmmagow · #11 04-16-2003, 03:48 PM

I just put new pads in and basically felt my rotor to see if there were and bad spots. Pedal wasn't pulsing before and isn't after. I did a few run-ups to 50 or so, firm but not lock-up braking runs and all seems to be OK. I suspect one can change the pads a couple of times before changing the rotors and in the scheme of life, the MB rotors aren't all that expensive.

samiam4 · #12 04-16-2003, 09:39 PM

I'm not against turning when it is warented...

Just arbitrary turning. If your runout is too much and your wheel brgs are within spec. You can turn them. Then measure the minimum thickness spec. Are you still thicker than the min??

Sorry guys- I've got access to a brake lathe and I still don't turn. I spend the $$ for new ones. Generally, you should get 2-3 sets of pads to MB rotors.

As to the type of Textars. I would use the ones that come in the yellow box and not the USA Mercedes ones which have the star.

Remember brake paste or anti-seize.

Michael

oldsouth · #13 04-16-2003, 11:16 PM

If you do not have any brake pulse and are within minimum thickness specs, do NOT turn the rotors. A waste of time, money, and they could warp easier. Trust me, I turned mine once before and they promptly warped and had to redo the job and replace them. Buy some inexpensive calipers and you will probably have to file or grind the lip off in a section to get the caliper to measure the thickness of the rotor.

Brad123D · #14 04-17-2003, 01:37 AM

Oldsouth,
This thread is about 123c's 1979 coupe which must be a nice car(For sale for $98,000 !)

But it is vastly different than a '95 S-350.

As far as I know, one is to always replace rotors on these newer cars if they are out of spec. for surface finish or runout. Can anyone confirm this from factory info?

oldsouth · #15 04-17-2003, 09:58 AM

I might consider selliing my S-350 for $98000 if someone would like to make an offer.