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#1
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P.E Injection Pump Pictures & Exploded Views
Here is the pictures of an PE injection pump. I will try to explain each picture.
The first picture is how I found the #2 piston, once I removed the cylinder. Note the yellow paint, these are the adjustment nuts that should not be disturbed. When I removed this cylinder, I carefully marked the position of where it was set. PeterG |
#2
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The second picture shows the piston, in a different position. I was able to turn the piston because the control sleeve was busted. This picture the rack is not being pushed, but the piston could be turned independantly.
PeterG |
#3
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Third picture shows the side of the injection pump with the fuel pump removed. In order to remove the cam follower and the control sleeve for #2 piston, I had to remove I believe one of these bars. As I stated in previous post, the followers are rollers just like the fuel pump. These are much like roller used on roller cam cars. Once again very well designed.
PeterG |
#4
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Picture 4 shows the governor assembly removed. The flyweights are exposed as well as the dreaded castle nut. I broke two custom made tools before taking a pipe wrench to it. The replacement nut was 12 to $15.00. I wish I would have known it before I wasted all this time making a tool. It is hard to explain, but there is a rubber cushion between the drive hub and weights, most likely for shock and vibration. Remember this would not effect timing as the drive gear for the pump is off the front of the pump. This is strickly for the governor. The rack assembly connects to the governor with a special clip. This is what controls the rack, inversely the fuel. This was a little tricky as first you have to seperate the two (Pump from the governor), and then stick your little fingers in there to remove the clip, before you can truly seperate them. The bracket sticking out next to it is just a support. The flyweights fingers ride on a plate with a roller thrust underneath. this was tricky to reassemble as you have to get the rack attached while trying to get the face of the thrust lined up. Any questions?
![]() PeterG |
#5
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The fifth picture shows the piston sleeve assembly removed. I am trying to refresh my memory, but I think the hole seen in the picture is for oil. I think (senior moment) there is another one on the other side that lets the fuel into the piston sleeve. That is why you never ever, ever remove one of these sleeves while the pump is mounted on the car without isolating the fuel from the I.P pump. You will tie the fuel system to the oil system, and if the tank is full, it won't be anymore.say no more.
PeterG |
#6
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The sixth picture shows the dreaded control sleeve. That ball in the picture is supposed to be connected. This is what was wrong with my pump. I basically had no control of fuel for pump injector piston #2. As mentioned in the previous post, this caused smoke to appear at random and a real bad miss, and then once in a while it would run as smooth as glass, until I would accelerate.
PeterG |
#7
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Seventh picture shows the basic concept of the basic diesel injection pump. This is how they regulate the fuel going to the injectors. The piston is designed with a rifling on the side which allows more or less fuel to be injected. Unfortunately I cannot find the pictures of the pump when I had it apart. (Cam removed, cam followers, etc). The most difficult thing was removing the castle nut and trying to hold the cam followers back, while inserting the cam. I wonder if they have a fixture for that.
PeterG |
#8
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Eighth picture,
This is a better view of the internals of the control sleeve and the injection pump piston assembly. This closely represents the PE type pump setup. |
#9
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The last picture is the tool I made to remove the casle nut. Maybe someone who knows more about these pumps have a secret about the casle nut. I used heat, destroyed one tool completely, and if you look at this picture closely, you can see it had been fixed once. I finally inserted hardened allen key type material in the holes, but it finally took a pipe wrench to remove the nut. As I posted earlier, to repair the pumps for leaks etc, it is not a bad job, once it is off the car. I decided to repair the pump myself because I did not know if the engine was any good. I was willing to put $100.00 into it (the pump) but not the 750.00 I was quoted. It is hard to really screw it up unless you force something and break it. All the parts should be kept together. The piston in the corresponding bore, the respective follower to the cam, because these are all items that develop a certain wear pattern. If the I.P piston cylinders are removed and not marked, you will probably have to have it calibrated by an injection shop. I did not as I marked the exact position I found it in. I think not having them properly positioned would alter the idle and high speed. I forgot to mention that they also have shims underneath the pump cylinder bodies. I would not alter these either as this all plays into the idle and high speed operation. If you have any other questions I will try to answer them.
Thanks to GSXR in instructing me how to post the pictures. PeterG 79 300 SD |
#10
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That is great stuff Peter. Thanks!!
__________________
Jim |
#11
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Wow!! You are a brave man. I still don't quite get how the thing works but the pics are really cool. RT
__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops! 84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K 03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K 93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K |
#12
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Except for the exact calibration of fuel delivery, you will be fine. I'd expect it to be close, but not exactly the same as the others (they have probably changed a bit from the last calibration, anyway.
Vastly better than uncontrolled fuel delivery on #2! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#13
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psfred
Do they primarily set those adjustments for idle or high speed? the shims under the cylinders would provide for a shorter stroke as you add shims. Do they adjust these the two as a combination? PeterG 79 300SD |
#14
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FABULOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks a million. I have gotten buisy this week and not ordered the Bosch manuals. I'm now getting fired up. We really appreciate all the trouble you went to for producing this post. Have a great day, |
#15
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Peter:
I don't know for sure, but do know that max fuel delivery and start of injection must be the same for all five sets, for obvious reasons. I would guess that the shims are used to set the total delivery and the sleeve is to set the start of delivery, but I could easily be wrong! Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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