I feel that I should point something out here for all you 123 diesel modifiers.

The early 123 diesels (77 to about 80) have different manual transmissions, thus different bolt patterns on the transmissions than the late 123 diesels (about 80 'til the end of the series.) For this reason you need to make sure that you use the adapter plate for the transmission that you are using. This adapter plate bolts to the engine with four bolts that require flywheel removal to access. Then the transmission bolts to this plate.

Even the incorrect adapter will bolt up by leaving out a few bolts, but will not accurately center the transmission. This COULD cause pilot bearing problems and rapid input shaft bearing wear.

Have a great day,

That should be an integral part with the pedal assy? Were you not able to get a complete manual pedal assy?? LMK, I can probably procure what you need or you could probably order from Rusty (even if not on his or Fastlane's site, they can still order the factory parts.)


Brake line is what runs from the clutch master to the conn at the flex hose to the slave, but you can order ALL the above parts from the dealer or Fastlane/Rusty for suprisingly less than you'd think. The hose from the clutch master to the brake master is std MB rubber hose, they use a narrow fuel line (what the MB parts manual calls for), check a local dealer for about 3' of it (runs through the multi-grommet near the fuse box.)



Again, get from Fastlane or Rusty, they can get all to you for a GREAT price, just ordered another clutch set for a 240 I'm currently working on. For the 12pt flywheel bolts, they are expensive from the parts houses, but the ones on the Auto flywheel are the same, just re-use those from the vehicle you're putting this mod into and locktite them.


Use the conn/harness from the auto trans (conns at center console low on drivers side) and re-solder for a clutch safety switch (I used a brake light switch from the same vehicle for the clutch) and wire that to the neutral safety. The back-up switch will mount in the bracket on the manual shifter assy, no brainer, but email if you need to figure out the wiring, I went through all of this and made notes on how to re-wire so everything (back-up lights, safety, etc. works like a factory manual tranny.


Everyone I've seen so far (123 body) has a nipple on the brake master cyl, you just snip off the capped end.


What?? Maybe I'm not understanding what you want to do, but no need to pull the engine at all, just like doing a clutch job (as far as under chassis anyway). About 1.2 hours to get the tranny out from below. If you "must" change the bushings, engine seals/gaskets, then I guess that would work, but seems like you're going to more trouble that it's worth (then again...., I'm CONSTANTLY accused of THAT!)


Ohhhh..., OK, I get where you're going, not a bad idea.


Absolutely true. If I'd've read this last sentence first, I probably would not have replied. You'll do just fine with it and it will turn out perfect in the end I'm sure. Keep us up to date and for GADS sakes show us pics as you go!!!!


Agree totally, this site NEEDS a speeelll chicker!!

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

i did a conversion for a guy this past winter. a shop quoted him $2300 for the job, and i charged him $1500. if your car really is a prime specimen, than it would be worth it. if not just go buy a 240d with a manual already.

good luck.

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Sean Roland

2004 Saab 9-5 AERO 138k (for sale)
2000 VW Jetta GLS TDI 215k (sold)
1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 - 132k (sold)
1999 Saab 9-3se -- 84k (sold)
1986 MB 190e 2.3 16v -- 221K (sold)
1985 MB 190e 2.3 16v euro -- 145k (junked)
1992 Saab 9000t 5sp. -- 142k (sold)
1994 Subaru Legacy -- 264K (sold)
1998 Audi A4 1.8TQ -- 102k (sold)
1983 MB 240D stick -- 160k (sold)
1988 Saab 900SPG -- 156K (sold)
1983 MB 300D -- 270K project or parts (sold)
1986 MB 280SE Euro stick -- 150K (sold)

I'm still scratching my head. It sounds like a lot of hassle.

I bought a 69 115 220D for $200. Good engine and trans. Well I guess you can argue about a 2.2 being a good engine, but it will last a long time. I wanted a spare trans.

Then I changed my mind and decided that the W115 has much too much class to chop up and discard, so now I have a project car instead.

I saw a fintail pickup at Metric Motors in Reno. Wow what a trip. The guy dropped a rear window behind the front seat and covered the back seat with a snap on cover. Then he dissapeared the back doors. The mother in law has to climb over the body to sit in the back seat. Sharp car, it's for sale.

The W115 into a pick-up is a winter project. Fenders and doors from a boneyard, and fabricated pickup bed. Of course if I come across a 69 Mustang fastback rear deck, all bets are off. Whoa! I just visualised a 69 W115 220D with a fastback rear deck.

So I bought a 77 240D for a spare trans. Also paid $200. After I got home I washed off the crud and found a beautiful straight, rust free body. Damn, another project car. Won't start, but I have a spare 2.4 anyway.

The point is that I found two cars with manual trans in a few weeks for less than it would have cost for a used transmission. I think that would be easier to repair than a to convert.

Off topic!

How about putting a five cylinder 3.0 in front of a clutch? Anybody done that? That would be sporty. At least you can't already buy one original equip.

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69 220D not running
79 240D parts car
80 240D Beater runs everyday
81 300TD temp disabled cooling problem
82 300SD sweet

I'm with you Flash123. I have a $250 1969 230 gas with stuck engine. The body and inside are excellent. I plan to put in a great running engine from a 300D with bad body, and add a 4spd from a rusty, low compression 220D. Both the 300D and 220D will get crushed after a strip party. All 3 cars cost about $1K (I did some swapping, that's why the "about".) Ron

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1971 220D, daily driver, new paint, 142K
1973 220D, low compression
1975 300D, back on the road! 166K
1971 220D, salvage, rear hit, engine excellent
1972 250, bad cam, but runs!
1971 230, engine stuck
1971 220D, low compression, rusty
1976 240D, salvage, engine excellent
1966 230SL, water in oil after rebuild

it has been four years since my post

how time flies

the 240 d still sits there
and it has been about 3 years since the 220d has been started

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69 220D not running
79 240D parts car
80 240D Beater runs everyday
81 300TD temp disabled cooling problem
82 300SD sweet

If you're any where near South Louisiana I've got a 1982 240 manual for sale dented right 1/4 but all body parts are here . weld it paint it,It will be sell able at $4'000. NO rust, No leaks A/C worked excellent upon accident. Heater was great also. This was MY baby but had to get another car when it was hit. couldn't wait. Interior excellent, Dash complete no aging,upholstery all good no tears. My favorite is the manual windows and manual roof. Will let it go for $700.00. I have all the body parts to fix it but haven't the time
PM me if you're around here or want pic's.

Winnemucca Nevada

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69 220D not running
79 240D parts car
80 240D Beater runs everyday
81 300TD temp disabled cooling problem
82 300SD sweet

I know this post is several years old, but I believe it is wrong. The early and late transmissions are different, but both should bolt up fine.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

The auto and manual plates were identical between my 240D and 300TD.

Yes, mine too between a 617.950 and the early cast-iron 4 speed

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Soooo, if the plates are the same auto and manual, then when I get around to installing
the 4 speed manual into my cali. 85, I can use the same plate and still use the tach.

The cali plate has the sensor mounted to pick up the signal from the flywheel.

I did read on another thread that the plates have the same part#.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

but will the 240D flywheel have the sensor post? I dont remember seeing anything on my flywheel. the harmonic damper on mine has a small post sticking out for the RPM sensor

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Heres what could work for you. Find your self a fairly nice manual 240D and sell your auto car, ...OR swap engines/trannys and sell the "fairly nice" 240D with the auto. That is if the auto car you have now is really exceptional, body, suspension, interior etc.., otherwise just look for a nice manual 240D
The older split case tranny will bolt right up, but the throw out bearing my be different.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

It's either this or the pull apart lot or something and that would be against my grain