Finally - Step By Step Glowplug Change - '98-'99 E300! - Page 18 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jmbeam · #**256** 01-24-2010, 01:23 PM

You are not saying that this line with the banjo end is a check valve are you? I dont see it. Or are you saying that there is a check valve on the injector housing? I dont see any leaks and I dont see any air pockets in fuel line.

Should I attempt to run car again and just idle it until it hopefully clears itself up?

markg612 · #**257** 01-24-2010, 01:31 PM

Okay--the banjo bolt on the block side of the pump is a check valve--601 070 06 46 VALVE (Overflow valve) My concern is crush washers and o-ring in past experience have been unusable and tend to leak if reused.

That said, I personally would run it at idle till it's warm and if it clears then give it a highway spin. refrain from running it hard till it smooths out.

jmbeam · #**258** 02-01-2010, 09:35 AM

My E300D now runs like a champ, however after one week of driving and erasing this error code three times it keeps coming back. Why am I still getting this code P0200?

Anyone have any suggestions that may help me? Thanks

whunter · #**259** 02-02-2010, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmbeam

My E300D now runs like a champ, however after one week of driving and erasing this error code three times it keeps coming back. Why am I still getting this code P0200?

Anyone have any suggestions that may help me? Thanks

This thread may help you.

97 E300D Crossover/Manifold/Flaps
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=258494

Please include YEAR, MAKE, MODEL of your vehicle when you post a question..
I searched the forum for your old posts, and expanded what I found.

Year: 1997
Model: E300 Diesel
Chassis: W210.020
Engine: OM606.912

jmbeam · #**260** 02-09-2010, 10:25 AM

I looked at the thread and STILL cannot remove the code P0200,

Is there anything I am missing? The car is running well and starts great in cold weather. Nothing seems to be leaking etc. I am at a loss.

jmbeam · #**261** 02-12-2010, 03:03 PM

People on this board say to disconnect the vac hoses on one side of the tranducers however the error I code is not a precise code and more generic and broadbased, Any other suggestions?

cullennewsom · #**262** 02-15-2010, 10:18 PM

Ok, so I just changed my glow plugs and regulator valve seals all in one go. Here's how it went.

First I happen to agree with the feller that said to remove the glow plugs with the engine warm. So that's what I did. I tried first removing them with a ratchet and socket, engine warm. I was able to remove 3, 4, and 6 with no problems. Numbers 1, 2, and 5 were stuck, and being no stranger to breaking things I could see where this was going. So, I got my 1/2" impact wrench out and on as low a pressure as I could go and still get the plugs to move, I let 'er rip. After a couple minutes of hammering per plug, they all came out intact. I sure am glad #6 wasn't stuck! I did start the engine twice during this time with the manifold off, in order to keep the head warm. It may not have actually helped, but I think it did, and that made me feel better. Be sure and remove the rags from the intake ports before you start the engine.

Then I reamed the holes out. You know, put some grease on the reamer, ream the hole, rinse, repeat. In the end, I opted to remove all plugs, spray liberally with Deep Creep (my favorite penetrating oil, and magic elixer) and then turn the engine over with the starter to empty the cylinders. I left all plugs out since I did not want the engine to run during this. After that I screwed the plugs in by hand to keep dirt out.

I used Canola oil, Diesel, and a bottle brush to clean the intake. After that, took it to the car wash, and pressure washed it. What a nasty thing it was. Now the car wash is nasty.
Then I did the regulator valve refresh. The only reason I mention it here is that it was convenient for me to do them all at once, and that's where the trouble started, for me. As I was breaking the number one valve loose (the one closest to the filter), I managed to bump (and break) the chintzy little plastic job that goes into the filter and to the IP Banjo bolt (and also has the injector return). So, be warned. If your chintzy little plastic pieces parts is all brittle and stuff; you may want to take extra care. Or better yet, plan to replace it with a new, not-quite-as-brittle chintzy piece of plastic. Cost me 29 bucks from the local Stealership. Not bad as far as mishaps go, and it probably would have broken later anyway, in the desert, on a Sunday, in the rain, etc.

Also, many thanks to LightMan and Parrot of Doom for their excellent contributions, as well as everyone else.

92497pmu · #**263** 11-09-2010, 12:08 PM

2nd time I replaced my glow plugs on my e300 per Lightmans instructions.

went pretty smoothly even though it was only 40 degrees on Sunday at the farm. Thanks again to my brother for the assistant wrenching.

I got about 4 years and 120,000 miles on this last set of plugs per my records.

simon2 · #**264** 08-31-2011, 05:17 PM

Here is an option to removal of those stuck glow plugs before they break. Prevention is better than cure ah .
When I went to change the G plugs on my 94 Merc C250 # 3 glow plug was stuck fast , so much so that I could not get more than 1mls movement on the socket handle . It just refused to move . I could tell if I put any more pressure on it the G/plug would break . I realised it was probably locked in with carbon on the inside . I went and bought some CRC Penetrant , the expensive stuff and sprayed that around the joint but after waiting over night , no change at all . So then I thought how do I soften up the carbon on the inside ? . SO , I removed all the other glow plugs and their injectors , except for the injector with the stuck glow plug , I made sure the glow plug wires were disconnected .Obviously the intake manifold is off too at this stage with all the ports open . So next I then turn over the engine while keeping my foot on the gas pedal . It turns over easily without the compression of the other cylinders so does not flatten the battery . I do this intermittently for as long as it takes to really soak the glow plug chamber with fuel , resting the starter motor between bursts . I can see the atomised fuel misting out of the other glow plug holes so I know that the stuck glow plug is getting a really good soaking in there . When I figured its wet enough I then left the engine overnight , The next morning I tried the socket wrench on the stuck glow plug . TO my amazment there was some movement , more movement than before . Its still tight but I know that I can safely work it now without fear that I am going to break it . I then moved it afew mils at a time and sprayed the penetrant around the hole as I am doing this . I can see the carbon in the pentetrant fluid as it drains away from the hole . I kept doing this until all the glow plug threads were visable and out of the hole . But the plug is still stuck in the hole and would not release itself even though the treads are out . I then clamp the vice grips on the glow plug and pulled while twisting it gently but firmly and out it came . I then went and had a glass of evening wine to celebrate this victory . This method worked so I thought I would share it with you all . Try it and let me know if it works for you too .

michakaveli · #**265** 08-31-2011, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simon2

Here is an option to removal of those stuck glow plugs before they break. Prevention is better than cure ah .
When I went to change the G plugs on my 94 Merc C250 # 3 glow plug was stuck fast , so much so that I could not get more than 1mls movement on the socket handle . It just refused to move . I could tell if I put any more pressure on it the G/plug would break . I realised it was probably locked in with carbon on the inside . I went and bought some CRC Penetrant , the expensive stuff and sprayed that around the joint but after waiting over night , no change at all . So then I thought how do I soften up the carbon on the inside ? . SO , I removed all the other glow plugs and their injectors , except for the injector with the stuck glow plug , I made sure the glow plug wires were disconnected .Obviously the intake manifold is off too at this stage with all the ports open . So next I then turn over the engine while keeping my foot on the gas pedal . It turns over easily without the compression of the other cylinders so does not flatten the battery . I do this intermittently for as long as it takes to really soak the glow plug chamber with fuel , resting the starter motor between bursts . I can see the atomised fuel misting out of the other glow plug holes so I know that the stuck glow plug is getting a really good soaking in there . When I figured its wet enough I then left the engine overnight , The next morning I tried the socket wrench on the stuck glow plug . TO my amazment there was some movement , more movement than before . Its still tight but I know that I can safely work it now without fear that I am going to break it . I then moved it afew mils at a time and sprayed the penetrant around the hole as I am doing this . I can see the carbon in the pentetrant fluid as it drains away from the hole . I kept doing this until all the glow plug threads were visable and out of the hole . But the plug is still stuck in the hole and would not release itself even though the treads are out . I then clamp the vice grips on the glow plug and pulled while twisting it gently but firmly and out it came . I then went and had a glass of evening wine to celebrate this victory . This method worked so I thought I would share it with you all . Try it and let me know if it works for you too .

Very nice!

Tudor · #**266** 05-27-2013, 01:42 PM

I know it's an old post, but it's most relevant to my situation so I thought I'd "revive" it if that's ok with you guys. My E300D has at least one bad GP (open circuit) and smokes really bad for a few minutes after startup, so replacing those little buggers is in order.

So I've been gearing up for this project and I'm getting really close to attempting it.

Before I get started, I have a couple questions:

1. Does it help to remove the glow plugs with the engine hot?

2. Is it ok to use WD40 as a penetrating fluid to help loosen off those plugs?

3. Is regular diesel fuel ok for cleaning the intake manifold?

I just want to make sure I'm well prepared before I start, because I want to start and finish the job within one weekend.

Thanks and have a great day,
Tudor

Quote:

Originally Posted by cullennewsom

Ok, so I just changed my glow plugs and regulator valve seals all in one go. Here's how it went.

First I happen to agree with the feller that said to remove the glow plugs with the engine warm. So that's what I did. I tried first removing them with a ratchet and socket, engine warm. I was able to remove 3, 4, and 6 with no problems. Numbers 1, 2, and 5 were stuck, and being no stranger to breaking things I could see where this was going. So, I got my 1/2" impact wrench out and on as low a pressure as I could go and still get the plugs to move, I let 'er rip. After a couple minutes of hammering per plug, they all came out intact. I sure am glad #6 wasn't stuck! I did start the engine twice during this time with the manifold off, in order to keep the head warm. It may not have actually helped, but I think it did, and that made me feel better. Be sure and remove the rags from the intake ports before you start the engine.

Then I reamed the holes out. You know, put some grease on the reamer, ream the hole, rinse, repeat. In the end, I opted to remove all plugs, spray liberally with Deep Creep (my favorite penetrating oil, and magic elixer) and then turn the engine over with the starter to empty the cylinders. I left all plugs out since I did not want the engine to run during this. After that I screwed the plugs in by hand to keep dirt out.

I used Canola oil, Diesel, and a bottle brush to clean the intake. After that, took it to the car wash, and pressure washed it. What a nasty thing it was. Now the car wash is nasty.
Then I did the regulator valve refresh. The only reason I mention it here is that it was convenient for me to do them all at once, and that's where the trouble started, for me. As I was breaking the number one valve loose (the one closest to the filter), I managed to bump (and break) the chintzy little plastic job that goes into the filter and to the IP Banjo bolt (and also has the injector return). So, be warned. If your chintzy little plastic pieces parts is all brittle and stuff; you may want to take extra care. Or better yet, plan to replace it with a new, not-quite-as-brittle chintzy piece of plastic. Cost me 29 bucks from the local Stealership. Not bad as far as mishaps go, and it probably would have broken later anyway, in the desert, on a Sunday, in the rain, etc.

Also, many thanks to LightMan and Parrot of Doom for their excellent contributions, as well as everyone else.

markg612 · #**267** 05-27-2013, 01:59 PM

Honestly, before you dive head long into a unnecessary project, grab a multi meter and ohm out each of the plugs, either by pulling the 6 pin connector from the top of the glow relay, which by far is the easiest with the intake in the way.

Even though the book doesn't isn't really supportive of resistance checking the plugs, it's a quick work reducer.

I'd boil or pressure wash the intake and check both of the resonance valves for shaft play OR missing vanes! (as the shafts wear, vane's vibrate and break off and end up in the intake tubes.)

Your post startup smoking and rough running is most likely the same problem all of us 606 folks have which is pump or distribution valve or air related. Miraculously, mine fixed itself after using a fuel additive on a long trip!

Star Brite Star Tron Diesel Additive 8oz

If you do change glow plugs anyway, hotter the better, and use something like TriFLow or a premium quality penetrating spray.(someone will chime in with a favorite) WD40 is worthless--works nice for oiling scissors and cleaning grease off your fingers though. Soak the plugs repeatedly before you start, like a for a week.

Tudor · #**268** 05-27-2013, 02:13 PM

Thanks for the quick reply!

I already measured at the glow plug relay connector: #6 is open, and the other ones are around 1 Ohm or so.

Not sure what/where the resonance valve is but I'll look it up. Thanks for mentioning it anyway.

Will look up TriFlow... hopefully we have something similar up here in Canada.

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by markg612

Honestly, before you dive head long into a unnecessary project, grab a multi meter and ohm out each of the plugs, either by pulling the 6 pin connector from the top of the glow relay, which by far is the easiest with the intake in the way.

Even though the book doesn't isn't really supportive of resistance checking the plugs, it's a quick work reducer.

I'd boil or pressure wash the intake and check both of the resonance valves for shaft play OR missing vanes! (as the shafts wear, vane's vibrate and break off and end up in the intake tubes.)

Your post startup smoking and rough running is most likely the same problem all of us 606 folks have which is pump or distribution valve or air related. Miraculously, mine fixed itself after using a fuel additive on a long trip!

Star Brite Star Tron Diesel Additive 8oz

If you do change glow plugs anyway, hotter the better, and use something like TriFLow or a premium quality penetrating spray.(someone will chime in with a favorite) WD40 is worthless--works nice for oiling scissors and cleaning grease off your fingers though. Soak the plugs repeatedly before you start, like a for a week.

markg612 · #**269** 05-27-2013, 02:31 PM

Tri-Flow® Superior Lubricant Aerosol

Totally disregard resonance vane vales, you're a TD, not installed--MB used them to tune the intake tubes on the NA 606s--my bad.

PS, I'm envious of the E300TDT Would have loved to have an 05 CDI wagon too!

m1tch · #**270** 06-28-2015, 12:24 PM

I have a couple of comments I wanted to add to this thread with regards to the inlet manifold.

To help hold the inlet manifold gasket in place I added a tiny amount of high temp silicone sealant between the sets of inlet ports - this holds the gasket in place as you maneuver the manifold into place.

To help get the intercooler to manifold back back in from underneath, disconnect the hose from the end of intercooler from on the nearside. This makes it easier to move the pipe and locate the bolt from under the car. The pipe is actually very light but can be difficult to locate with one end attached to the intercooler.