how are you guys accurate when drip timing???

[WANT '71 280SEL]

I have read to count so that it is one drop per second when turning over? So when someone is turning over the motor by hand, I need to count that? How can it be that accurate when different people can turn it over faster than others and how can one make an accurate count of drops per second?
Thanks
David

I don't understand what you mean when you talk about "turning it over" and that "one person can turn it over faster than another."

No offense, but it leads me to believe that you don't fully understand timing with the drip method.

Once you have valve plunger out and the drip tube in place, you need to have the engine slightly counterclockwise of the timing setting. Do NOT turn the engine counterclockwise, this can cause problems with the timing chain.

Once you are at TDC or a little past, pump up some pressure with the hand pump and then ever so slowly rotate the crankshaft bolt CLOCKWISE until it drips. You don't have to worry about whether is two drips per second or a half drop per second. There will be a point where it will drip instead of nothing or a stream. This the point you are looking for and at that point you can look at where the pointer is relative to the damper, that is your timing. If you need to adjust, set the damper at the exact spec such as 22 degrees, then loosen the IP nuts and rotate the IP 'til it drips and lock it down. Hand pump again after locking it down to ensure that it is still set.

From your post it sounds as if you are under the impression that you are supposed to turn past the mark and see where it drips on the way past. That is wrong, this is a static test.

Hope this helps,

[WANT '71 280SEL]

Your right. I thought you were suppose to hand crank it over until it drips, then adjust. It was a simple misunderstanding. I think I got it now.
Thanks
David

[WANT '71 280SEL]

At what point do I want it to drip? (degrees on crank). I've read 15+-1.
Thanks
David

WHICH CAR?

[P.E.Haiges]

Want71,

You turn the crankshaft (not over because it shouldn't be upside down) to set the correct timing mark (I think Larry will tell you the correct setting) at the pointer and then you rotate the IP slightly to adjust the drip.

NOTE: the crankshaft can be either at the power stroke or exhaust stroke position with the timing mark at the correct setting. The way to tell for sure is to check that the cam lobes are both pointing up on #1 cylinder.

P E H

[Fisherman]

Shouldn't you be somewhere like 40 dgrees before TDC on the compression stroke when you setup for the test? Then you rotate the crank up to the pioint of one drop per second.
Normal timing is before TDC so if you start at TDC you will be past and have to rotate 2 revolutions unless you were talking about TDC before the intake/compression stroke...

I find it simpler to set it up at about 30 degrees before TDC and then rotate from there as you don't have far to go. Also if the belts are tight you can use the alternator pulley bolt to turn the motor if it's a one person job. I just turn a couple of degrees at a time, then check, then turn, then check...

Yes, if you want to check it, start out with the damper slightly counterclockwise of the setting and rotate clockwise SLOWLY until you get drip. That is where it is timed. If it needs SETTING, then place the damper at the correct position and turn the IP until you get drip, then check it as above.

Good luck,