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  #256  
Old 10-19-2008, 07:57 PM
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It is getting cool at night here. Something like 41F tonight. I put a wool blanket over the engine, tied a rag to the steering wheel to remind me it is there, and plugged in the block heater. That should keep the local temperature around the RTV above 50F for the curing period.

-Jim

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  #257  
Old 10-19-2008, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Jadavis View Post
I bought my kit a year ago to put on my 87 300D. I never got around to installing it. I had some free time today, so I installed it in my 1995 S350D.
Jim, be careful, the 1995 S350 has a computer-controlled wastegate... the computer may sense the lack of EGR, and kill your boost pressure. If you notice a lack of power, that's the reason. Just something to keep an eye on...! You typically need to do some other modifications in order to disable EGR on the 90-95 diesels, while retaining normal boost pressure...

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  #258  
Old 10-19-2008, 11:24 PM
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So is it something that actually has to work or can I just install the blocking plate to prevent flow through the EGR.

I still have everything, so it will be easy to go back if there are any problems. The only thing I am missing is the metal crush gasket. I will need two of those crush gaskets if I am going to install the plate and leave everything else in there. All of the vacuum lines are still in there.

Thanks for the warning!

-Jim
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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.
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  #259  
Old 10-20-2008, 01:27 PM
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Jim, I'd try driving the car for a while and see what happens. If it runs normally with full power, with the EGR blocking plate installed, you're golden. If not, there are some other options available besides re-installing the valve... but let's see how it runs before we discuss that!

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  #260  
Old 10-24-2008, 12:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Jim, be careful, the 1995 S350 has a computer-controlled wastegate... the computer may sense the lack of EGR, and kill your boost pressure. If you notice a lack of power, that's the reason. Just something to keep an eye on...!
Yep, definately seeing this.
Quote:
You typically need to do some other modifications in order to disable EGR on the 90-95 diesels, while retaining normal boost pressure...

Any idea where I can find what else needs to be done, or should I just go back to the EGR?

Edit: Found a thread about changing the waste gate actuator out in a 602 engine (2.5 liter, 5 cylinder in early 90's 300Ds). http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=212097&highlight=egr+computer

And this thread about tricking the computer in a 606. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=168261&highlight=egr+computer

Still looking for one for a 603 for a W140.

The MB dealership is out of the metal gaskets for the EGR. Can I just use some of the high temp copper silicone that came with the kit?

-Jim
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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

Last edited by Jadavis; 10-24-2008 at 12:35 AM.
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  #261  
Old 10-24-2008, 11:07 AM
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Jim, the optimum solution is to replace the wastegate with a pressure type, similar to the 602 thread above. The catch is, this may be a fair amount of work, and you'd need to figure out what wastegate to buy for your 603 turbo. I would have sworn that forum member "oldsouth" did this conversion on his 3.5L engine, you may want to try to contact him for more details. Someone did an electronic fix as well, which fools the computer into thinking the EGR is still working normally, but I haven't attempted this personally. There's a thread on that as well (somewhere).

About the gaskets... you could re-use the old metal gasket, with a thin smear of the RTV, if you can't obtain new gaskets. Just make sure the sealing surfaces are cleaned with solvent prior to installing.

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  #262  
Old 11-09-2008, 05:23 PM
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has anyone seen any real benefit from removing their egr? i mean, enough to justify spending $30 and spending the time to do it (even though it is just another excuse to tinker and get my hands black)
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  #263  
Old 11-09-2008, 05:35 PM
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I can't even justify washing my car

You can disable EGR without removing the EGR valve. It looks a lot cleaner and neater with unused bits out of the way, though.

Sixto
87 300D

Last edited by sixto; 11-09-2008 at 07:21 PM.
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  #264  
Old 11-09-2008, 05:38 PM
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yes this is true but is there any benefit in performance and/or mileage or longevity?
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  #265  
Old 11-09-2008, 05:47 PM
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The crud that forms in the intake runners and valve faces can't be good for anything. If you've cleaned the crossover pipe and intake manifold, you really don't want to do it again.

We'll see if anyone's measured fuel consumption before and after. Most people disable EGR before establishing an mpg baseline.

How do you like the 'burb? We have a 97. Sounds like a MB with no muffler but cruises at 65mph under 2000 rpm. I'm waiting for Brian to come up with a kit for it

Sixto
87 300D

Last edited by sixto; 11-09-2008 at 07:22 PM.
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  #266  
Old 11-09-2008, 05:55 PM
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I just cleaned out my overboost solenoid, which was full of soot! The results were amazing, to say the least.
I have my EGR blocked off, but would prefer to do the whole deletion because it seems like it might work better. Either way, once I get my intake cleaned out for good, it'll be nice and clean and won't plug up my boost signal in the intake anymore!! I'd say it is worth it just for that!
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  #267  
Old 11-09-2008, 06:09 PM
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i love it it's a powerhouse. i have always been a fan of GM V8 diesels. it has 4.10s in it so it's pretty revved at 60 mph but it makes it nice for towing. it gets about 18 highway which is pretty good for the gearing.
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  • 1993 Mercedes-Benz 400E *146,000 Miles*
  • 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300SD Turbo Diesel Biodiesel *SOLD @ 346,000 Miles*
  • 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300D Turbo Diesel Biodiesel *SOLD @ 284,000 Miles*
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  #268  
Old 11-09-2008, 06:10 PM
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and ok you convinced me. what is the best way to clean out your intake manifold?
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  #269  
Old 11-09-2008, 10:43 PM
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Depends on your definition of "best." You can take it to a shop and have it hot-dipped; that is "best" but costs money. I did mine with biodiesel and with gasoline, outside where the fumes wouldn't get me. More work, messier, harder to get at some spots, a lot less expensive.
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Our all-Diesel family
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  #270  
Old 11-09-2008, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Depends on your definition of "best." You can take it to a shop and have it hot-dipped; that is "best" but costs money.
Do you know of any shop in the US that will "hot-dip" aluminum?

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