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#256
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It is getting cool at night here. Something like 41F tonight. I put a wool blanket over the engine, tied a rag to the steering wheel to remind me it is there, and plugged in the block heater. That should keep the local temperature around the RTV above 50F for the curing period.
-Jim
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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior. Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles. I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership. |
#257
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Quote:
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#258
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So is it something that actually has to work or can I just install the blocking plate to prevent flow through the EGR.
I still have everything, so it will be easy to go back if there are any problems. The only thing I am missing is the metal crush gasket. I will need two of those crush gaskets if I am going to install the plate and leave everything else in there. All of the vacuum lines are still in there. Thanks for the warning! -Jim
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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior. Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles. I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership. |
#259
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Jim, I'd try driving the car for a while and see what happens. If it runs normally with full power, with the EGR blocking plate installed, you're golden. If not, there are some other options available besides re-installing the valve... but let's see how it runs before we discuss that!
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#260
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Edit: Found a thread about changing the waste gate actuator out in a 602 engine (2.5 liter, 5 cylinder in early 90's 300Ds). http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=212097&highlight=egr+computer And this thread about tricking the computer in a 606. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=168261&highlight=egr+computer Still looking for one for a 603 for a W140. The MB dealership is out of the metal gaskets for the EGR. Can I just use some of the high temp copper silicone that came with the kit? -Jim
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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior. Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles. I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership. Last edited by Jadavis; 10-24-2008 at 12:35 AM. |
#261
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Jim, the optimum solution is to replace the wastegate with a pressure type, similar to the 602 thread above. The catch is, this may be a fair amount of work, and you'd need to figure out what wastegate to buy for your 603 turbo. I would have sworn that forum member "oldsouth" did this conversion on his 3.5L engine, you may want to try to contact him for more details. Someone did an electronic fix as well, which fools the computer into thinking the EGR is still working normally, but I haven't attempted this personally. There's a thread on that as well (somewhere).
About the gaskets... you could re-use the old metal gasket, with a thin smear of the RTV, if you can't obtain new gaskets. Just make sure the sealing surfaces are cleaned with solvent prior to installing. ![]() |
#262
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has anyone seen any real benefit from removing their egr? i mean, enough to justify spending $30 and spending the time to do it (even though it is just another excuse to tinker and get my hands black)
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#263
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I can't even justify washing my car
![]() You can disable EGR without removing the EGR valve. It looks a lot cleaner and neater with unused bits out of the way, though. Sixto 87 300D Last edited by sixto; 11-09-2008 at 07:21 PM. |
#264
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yes this is true but is there any benefit in performance and/or mileage or longevity?
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#265
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The crud that forms in the intake runners and valve faces can't be good for anything. If you've cleaned the crossover pipe and intake manifold, you really don't want to do it again.
We'll see if anyone's measured fuel consumption before and after. Most people disable EGR before establishing an mpg baseline. How do you like the 'burb? We have a 97. Sounds like a MB with no muffler but cruises at 65mph under 2000 rpm. I'm waiting for Brian to come up with a kit for it ![]() Sixto 87 300D Last edited by sixto; 11-09-2008 at 07:22 PM. |
#266
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I just cleaned out my overboost solenoid, which was full of soot! The results were amazing, to say the least.
I have my EGR blocked off, but would prefer to do the whole deletion because it seems like it might work better. Either way, once I get my intake cleaned out for good, it'll be nice and clean and won't plug up my boost signal in the intake anymore!! I'd say it is worth it just for that!
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Dan 2005 E320 CDI - 246k 1987 300SDL TD05-16g, Herlevi pump, Elbe manifold, 2.47 LSD - 213k Past: 1987 300D - 264k ![]() |
#267
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i love it it's a powerhouse. i have always been a fan of GM V8 diesels. it has 4.10s in it so it's pretty revved at 60 mph but it makes it nice for towing. it gets about 18 highway which is pretty good for the gearing.
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#268
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and ok you convinced me. what is the best way to clean out your intake manifold?
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#269
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Depends on your definition of "best." You can take it to a shop and have it hot-dipped; that is "best" but costs money. I did mine with biodiesel and with gasoline, outside where the fumes wouldn't get me. More work, messier, harder to get at some spots, a lot less expensive.
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![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#270
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Do you know of any shop in the US that will "hot-dip" aluminum?
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