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  #1  
Old 03-21-2008, 09:05 AM
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560SL cluster removal

My odometer/trip meter on the 560SL stopped at 39,999.9 miles a week ago and I plan to yank the cluster and fix it. I did the job on my 240D, so I suspect it will be the same here. Since the steering wheel has to come off, I'd like to attend to anything else that ought to be done while the wheel is off and the cluster is out. I plan to replace all the bulbs while it's out. I just had the wheel off a couple of months ago to fix the SRS light issue. I did clean the contact rings at that time. What else should I do while everything is apart?

Also, should I get the cluster removal "tool" to do the job? On my 240D I didn't need it because I could push the cluster out from below and behind.

Thanks.
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'59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta
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'99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles
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'14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles
'15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles

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  #2  
Old 03-21-2008, 09:24 AM
88Black560SL
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
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You can use a bent coat hanger or welding rod to remove the cluster. I would also check the windshield wiper transmission. Make sure the intermediate bellcrank bearing support is firmly bolted to the chassis (2 6mm bolts). I would also replace the bulb in the headlight switch.

John Roncallo
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  #3  
Old 03-21-2008, 09:05 PM
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I've done a bunch, including at least one that I'm very sure had never been out, and never needed the removal tools.
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #4  
Old 03-22-2008, 02:12 AM
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Judging by the miles you have a nice clean car and I think that coat hanger wire is a little thick for this - I bought springy (piano) wire from a hobby shop for $2.00 and made 3 sets out of them (sorry, gave the other two away). It's much thinner. In any event do NOT distort the dashboard plastic surrounding the instrument cluster when removing it, because that (old, dried out) plastic may crack.
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  #5  
Old 03-22-2008, 01:14 PM
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When I removed mine on my '78 SL-C, it just slid out, be careful and lightly move it side to side while pulling it foward, BE GENTLE!, mine didnt have any sort of retention devices keeping it in place and plenty of line to remove the electrical connections. I believe to remove the oil fitting, an 8mm box wrench is approperiate, and the steering wheel nut is a 27mm. I used that and a breaker bar, came right off and the wheel pulled right out. Be certain to mark the hub's position on the shaft to make installation easy.
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  #6  
Old 03-22-2008, 10:53 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. The EPPC shows twelve bulbs, eleven the same, in the cluter - never realized there were that many.
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'59 220S Cabriolet-SOLD and living happily in Malta
'83 240D 351,500 miles original owner-SOLD
'88 560SL 41,000 miles - totaled and parted out
https://sites.google.com/site/mercedesstuff/home
'99 E300 turbo 227,500 miles
'03 SLK320 40,000 miles - gave to my daughter
'14 Smart electric coupe 28,500 miles
'14 Smart electric cabriolet 28,500 miles
'15 Smart electric coupe 28,000 miles

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  #7  
Old 01-18-2009, 02:39 PM
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Exclamation Loose as a Goose

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roncallo View Post
I would also check the windshield wiper transmission. Make sure the intermediate bellcrank bearing support is firmly bolted to the chassis (2 6mm bolts).
John, that is a great suggestion! When I checked my 560SL's bellcrank bolts, the lower of the two wasn't even finger-tight. I put about 5 turns on that one before it snugged-up. The upper was tight, as well as the three wiper motor nuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roncallo View Post
I would also replace the bulb in the headlight switch.
My rotary switch has a rubber boot over it. Is the bulb hiding inside? I don't see an easy way to slide the boot back...too jammed up with wires galour. I would cut the boot off (it's doing that degenerating-to-crumbs thing), but there are numerous wire terminals on the perimeter of that assembly. It would be nice if the whole thing pushed forward out of the dashboard.
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  #8  
Old 01-18-2009, 04:27 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Those bolts are definitely worth checking. The lower bolt on mine had loosened up enough to fall out. This resulted in enough looseness to let the bracket break. During a rainy week. Rugrat decided to let the wipers keep going despite them having "spazzed out". The (sharp) end of the broken bracket was thrashing around in the wiring and cut up the insulation a bit. Thank goodness for the heavy cloth tape around the wiring bundle, it kept the damage to a minimum.
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