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#1
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Central locking delay on 107
Hi all
I've decided try to to fix a longstanding problem on my Euro(UK) 107 300SL. I think I know what the problem is but thought I'd ask for guidance as to the BEST place to start. Problem: LOCKING: when I operate the central locking from any of the three locks -doors and boot (trunk) the vacuum pump runs for ages after the car is locked but it does lock ok. UNLOCKING:When unlocking with either the remote key fob ( factory fitted alarm) or one of the locks, mostly only one lock un-locks and although the pump runs a while it doesn't seem to work all three locks - the locks all work OK manually. My thoughts: I guess there's a leak in the vacuum system somewhere - possibly the drivers door hinge as I guess it gets most use? MY QUESTION (sorry to be longwinded) do I start at the drivers door or has anyone a better suggestion ( I've already looked at the pump itself and checked the pipe connections) Look forward to your help Cheers Jim
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Keep your Motor runnin' ![]() Last edited by coleyjf; 07-29-2008 at 05:55 AM. |
#2
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its possibly the vaccum distributer for the lock system (behind the driver's side door skin) is faulty. Id begin there. If thats the flaw, its a cheap fix, the part is redily available on ebay.
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". . .back before accountants designed cars" ![]() -Current Stable- '78 MB 450SL-C 107.024.12.020783 #3840 <Kayleen> '85 FORD F250 6.9L Diesel <Allison> '98 Lexus ES300 <Rachel> Long Gone... '74 Chevy G10...........................'99 GMC Yukon 4X4 '83 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel .....'99 SAAB 9-5 '90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS............. '01 Chevy Tahoe '98 Nissan Altima .......................'02 MB ML320 '88 Chevy Suburban V2500 4X4 6.2 diesel |
#3
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UK which side?
Thanks Lex....
![]() One thought before I start to take the door(s) apart, as it's a UK model (Right Hand Drive) will the Vacuum Ditributor be behind the Right Hand door (UK Drivers door) or the Left Hand Door (US & European Drivers Door)? ![]() Also anyone give me a quick link to the best post on taking the door to pieces without damaging anything - I've done a search but there seems to be loads of threads on this all a bit different. Cheers and thanks for the Help Jim
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Keep your Motor runnin' ![]() |
#4
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Get a mighty vac and do some troubleshooting.
Old Benz have lots of potential for vacuum leaks. Might be cheap (hose), might be expensive (actuator). Got to check it out to verify. Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
#5
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I had the exact symptoms on my 87 560SL. It turned out to be the locking unit for the fuel door. $23 and I replaced it myself. The housing on the old one had cracked, probably due to the way they are mounted. I found it by leaving the trunk lid open and then locking the car with the key. Since the pump kept running for a while, I was lucky enough to find the source of the leak before it shut off.
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Kevin Arburn Overland Park, KS 1987 560SL |
#6
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I'm new to working on these cars, and have no experience with these vacuum sysems, but I am restoring an 81 300SD that has been sitting in a field for quite a while. Anyway, I have a similar problem with the vacuum pump in the trunk. It runs constantly, even with the key out of the ignition. Am I looking at a leak? and if so, is it difficult / expensive to fix? Thanks
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#7
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Quote:
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Mit freundlichen Grüßen, Lynn 2000 SL500 Silver 2000 SL500 SOLD 1989 560SL SOLD 1988 560SL SOLD |
#8
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fuel door & door panel removal
Thanks Guys
![]() I'll try the fuel door - I never thought of that one Door Panel Removal help "Please"! I did start taking the door panel off yesterday ![]() 1: Where the panel edge was fixed to the entry to the heating/ventilation duct (which goes up to heat the side window) on the hinge side of the door above the plastic poppers. This Seems fixed tight but I can't see where or how and as it's a 20 year old plastic duct I didn't want to force it as I thought it might break! Possibly this heating duct arrangement is on the "86 Face Lift" only. 2: How do you remove the "inner door catch" handle and trim? Still looking for a good link for this one. Cheers Jim
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Keep your Motor runnin' ![]() |
#9
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not the fuel door
well I've discounted the fuel door
Did it the easy way - just by passed the unit it with a "TEE" piece pipe from my greenhouse watering system and the fault still there - so off with the door panel for the next step. still looking for a good door panel removal guide Cheers jim
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Keep your Motor runnin' ![]() |
#10
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Quote:
Get thee a "Mighty Vac". It's indispensable for finding the source of the leak. Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles 95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles 94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles 85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles |
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