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#16
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Base unit replaced, but still ASR and ABS lamp on and blinking Roller bar lamp
Status quo… The base unit has been replaced, and I haven’t seen the total going berserk yet, and hopefully never will. But after we got heavy rain yesterday, after 3 weeks of lovely dry sunny weather, the ASR and ABS lamp light up as soon I pressed the break pedal, and stayed constantly on while driving, and the roller bar lamp light up every time I press the break pedal. The cruise control of cause, doesn’t work either. Everything else work normally.
Meaning, it’s not the OVP issue, and probably never has been. I have also replaced the distributors and rotors, and the coolant temp. switch – they needed so while the hood was open… J What is left… the motor harness? Before I go to that extend, anything else to look for. By the way, except for the visual inspection, is there any way I can check the harness electrically or using the diagnostics codes…? Those 3 lamps must have some meaning in combination… |
#17
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Now on the cluster...
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Found this site: http://www.mbcluster.com/FAQPage.htm and will try to do some testing in the weekend. I have already done the build-in cluster test and everything looks okay. Now I will test the voltage on the connectors. Only problem seems to be that the fault is temporary, which makes it harder to find. Also the capacitor issue has to be checked before I reach the conclusion, and all too expensive, replacing the harness. Thanx for the advice |
#18
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asr abs light
Check your brake light bulbs , if i remember correctly on a 140 s class, the wrong single contact brake light replaced with a double caused a similiar
problem as yours , ive seen a wackey problem with front turns signals too, just a thought. Last edited by nulu; 07-10-2009 at 10:11 PM. Reason: spelling |
#19
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Ggg so simple....
nulu, will do asap... but I thought i would get at bulp missing light in the cluster....
Thanx for the advice... thats the easy one, except if it turns out the cable to the break lamp is the fault. But at good hit. Claus |
#20
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If only the asr and abs light are on, then it is not likely to be a capacitor / voltage regulator problem of the VDO. When the capacitor fails, all the lamps come on. Have you considered problems with the tach pulse from the ABS sensors? Have you searched threads on ETA ( electronic throttle accuator )? Trouble in the ETA can cause these lamps to come on. A non functioning cruise control might be a clue which ties all these problems together, as it also needs wheel speed information. Water in the ABS sensor after rain? ( may have a crack in the case ). Also check the abs sensor plugs ( connectors ) where they meet behind the wheels.
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Resistance is Futile. Last edited by tecqboy; 07-11-2009 at 10:31 AM. |
#21
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tecqboy.. thanx again... has slipped my mind, but since I'm not the most qualified car technical person, just trying to understand og not to forget, saving money, I would love to get these issues locallized before I contact my indy, and get his help to fix the problems.
Already now, he tells me that I know more about the car than he does. But still he's the one to get durty hands... :-) I know for at fact, that I had one of the ABS sensores replaced 3 years ago. Maybe its time for the next one... Claus |
#22
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Rud,
I hope by now your issue is solved I had a similar instance happen on my '94 sl320 all of the same symptoms, I found that I had blown a fuse that controlled the turn signals/all things at the central mirror location ie:interior lights etc. Replaced the fuse and everything is ok driving along and I hear a sizzle and loose all guages and signals. I get where I am going and can't put up the top. On my return home I start to investigate the sizzle I heard and discover a loose screw under the header lamps at the rear view mirror it had fallen down and must have jiggled it self around until it popped the fuse (it is only a 8amp) my driving must have continued to jiggle it and convinced the car that the battery was too low to operate the top. After getting everything sorted out and replacing another 8a fuse I went for a ride so I could run the car at 3k rpm for an extended period, when I got back to my home the top worked like a champ as did all the lights. I only have to find the proper retaining screw for this area and I am done. I find that taking a step back and thinking it over works pretty well 1or2 beverages always helps. I could go on and on with the self diagnosed problems I have fixed and can't imagine the cost I have saved. Also the engine wiring harness is not as daunting a task as it seems I replaced mine in about 2 hours dealer quote $2500 DIY all in I think $650 I bought the parts here and found a good level of instruction here as well (search) my sl is a 6cyl. not an 8 but I still think an 8 is not that difficult. Regards, KD |
#23
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Thank you KD for sharing your experiences
Thank you KD for sharing your experiences. Well somehow I have got a hate love relationship to this car. I hate it for being so critical in terms of small things that can mess up everything, and so hard it is to get a clear diagnosis of what can be wrong. On the other hand, I just love the car for what it is, the most beautiful of its kind, and when nothing is wrong, its just such a beauty to ride. My wife is jealous when she sees the look in my eyes when I drive my second beauty like she’s second to none… On the other hand, she’s just as mysterious as any lady I know…
![]() Well back to reality. I still got the ASR and ABS lamps light up. Funny you should mention the fuses. Every time I twist them, the lightning disappear for awhile, just to come back on after half an hour of driving. I have also notice, that not only the roller bar lamp turn on when pressing the break pedal, also the oil level instrument drops to zero and a short quick flash in the yellow ASD warning shows. Somehow, I guess tecqboy’s suggestion about something is wrong with the ABS sensors, is probably where I shall look. Only problem is, that I don’t have a pit or elevator, so I can get to see the car from underneath. Guess I have to wait until my indy is back from summer vacation. I’m not going to the stealership if I can avoid it! I will let you all know the result when we/I find the fault or tiny little detail, that make driving less enjoyable for the time being. Thanx for all the good suggestion. Regards Claus |
#24
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If that's the original harness on a 1993, there's a 90%+ chance that is going to turn out to be your problem. The insulation degrades, it will happen to all of them eventually.
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#25
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Rud,
Don't rule out a bad ground somewhere in the taillight IE: Brake light, directional, side marker light. a ground on these cars can come from a bad or wrong bulb, and check the screws holding your central mirror and dome lights they are under the plastic light housings on each side. I am like you and love my car but wonder why the almighty germans did not just contract there electrics out to Lucas so we could get in line with the brits to curse them. KD |
#26
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CCW you’re my friend… hmm.. the motor harness. Yes for what I know it’s the original. Only pleasing factor is, that it will only cost me a fraction of what the car is worth in this country. Guess its worth replacing. A 16 year old car like the one I have is sold for around DKr 350.000 = $ 53,850 in this country these days, so the harness is a relative small cost compare to that. Still… argh!
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#27
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Search parts on this site for the best price it is where I got mine.
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KBDixon '94 SL320 |
#28
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KD... Wonder if Lucas is better than Bosch. But I agree, strange for Germans to make a car so fragile to small electrical issues.
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#29
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KD... I have actually thought about making the harness myself. MIL standard wires, and coverings and isulations up to 250dgC heating protection. All I need is an old harness to copy from.
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#30
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Have to pay VAT and custom taxes when buying from the states
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