![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
timing chain tools 1987 560SL
my 560sl has only done just over 104,xxx but it is 24 years old so i'm getting the timing chain, tensioner and all the guides replaced. my mechanic is very competent and has done numerous large jobs for me, though he doesn't have every tool :-(
we need to buy/borrow the slide hammer/guide rail pin puller to remove the rail pins and a chain feed tool. is anyone interested in renting me those tools? thanks!
__________________
1987 W124 Mercedes 300D 1987 R107 Mercedes 560SL Last edited by metadanny; 06-23-2011 at 06:01 PM. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
If you don't mind me saying, these are wear items and IMHO not really affected by time. I'd recommend having him check for chain stretch and if it is in spec I'd leave it.
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
The booklet "Preventing Catastrophic V/8 Engine Failure" by Kent Bergsma contradicts this. He states that it is time, not wear, that causes the plastic to become brittle and break.
"Plastic can absorb moisture as well as oil and the constant heating, cooling, and even freezing makes it brittle and prone to breaking." |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
i've done some research including searching this board and the general concensus appears to recommend replacing the chain guides around 100k and to check the chain for slack. as my car has driven over 100k and is 24 years young i'm going to replace the now brittle guides and while we in there also replace the 24 year old chain as labor is the major expense on this job. this work will be cheaper then a guide breaking and the chain jumping.
__________________
1987 W124 Mercedes 300D 1987 R107 Mercedes 560SL |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Didn't think about the plastic getting brittle. And it would almost seem a shame to take it all apart and not do the chain, but for an old MB guy like me (plus being a typical German-descent cheapskate) it would be tough to justify doing the chain. I'd definitely check the chain stretch before commiting to a chain, but again i am cheap.
__________________
Click here to see a photo album of my '62 Sprite Project Moneypit (Now Sold) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Agree, time to do the guides and once you are in there, it makes sense to do the chain, tensioner, and perhaps the cam sprockets too.
I don't have the tools, but if you can't find them, it can be done without them just about as easily. There's a wiki on here that describes it and also a good one on W116.org
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
I've seen early 450SL's with everything worn out and some that were like new so age is only one factor.
The bottom chain rails last a very long time and on't wear out very quickly. The top ones can crack and should be replaced if they appear to be worn or broken. The chain tensioner is something I wouldn't replace unless it fails. You can make your own pin tool without too much effort. The tool to replace the master link is far to exspensive to justify purchase or even rental. I grind the ends of the pins off and use two hammers, one a ball peen, to rivet the ends of the pins after assembly. I've never had one fail and it costs nothing since I already have the hammers. You will need to press the end plate on over the pins with a pair of vise grips - not hard to do. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Seems like I am the the fly in the ointment here lately. If one waits until a guide is broken or a tensioner fails they can face a total upper rebuild and possibly a total rebuild.
I will agree that the very early, '72-'73?, are metal backed guides and don't normally break. Replacing them is not necessary unless wear is excessive. The early tensioner is a different matter. Replacing it is a good idea. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
got them. a local shop rented me the pin puller & chain loader for $25.
for information purposes can someone direct me to the wiki showing how to do this job with out the tools? RS899 mentioned it was on this board and W116.org, i tried to find it but as per normal got lost using the search engines on internet chat boards! thanks!
__________________
1987 W124 Mercedes 300D 1987 R107 Mercedes 560SL |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
#11
|
|||
|
|||
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
thanks guys - those links are great!
__________________
1987 W124 Mercedes 300D 1987 R107 Mercedes 560SL |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|