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  #1  
Old 03-24-2005, 10:16 AM
DUTCH's Avatar
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M113 Lower Oil Pan Removal - Gilly?

Gilly,

I can't seem to break the sealant loose to remove the lower oil pan. I can get a pry bar in between the two external flanges on the left side of the pan, but can't get it to budge. I'm afraid that, if I pry too hard, I'll bend and distort the pan in that area.

Any ideas on how to break it free?

PS. Thanks for the earlier tip on looking carefully to be sure that all bolts were removed. I gave it one final inspection before trying to pry the lower pan off, and found one I missed.
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  #2  
Old 03-24-2005, 02:18 PM
carson356
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113 oil pan

ther should be below the a/c compressor a little flange that is used to allow the pans to be seperated. here are some pictures regarding application of the sealant, it is critical to follow the pattern and use the correct sealant to avoid having the pan leak

Last edited by carson356; 02-05-2006 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 03-24-2005, 02:44 PM
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Yes, the flat spots on the left side of the pan is the place to start. I've used a chisel in there, just pound it all the way in towards the rear of the car, just the right size to spread this gap open.

Gilly
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Old 03-24-2005, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilly
Yes, the flat spots on the left side of the pan is the place to start. I've used a chisel in there, just pound it all the way in towards the rear of the car, just the right size to spread this gap open.

Gilly
And that "brute force" won't deform the pan? I levered on it pretty hard, but the sealant would not break loose.
__________________
1973 280SE 4.5 (Sold)
1984 LWB 280GE (Sold)
2000 G500 NMLE - "Deep Throat"
2007 ML320 CDI (Sold)
2010 Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia TipTronic (Sold)
2010 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (Sold and Sorely Missed)
2014 ML350 BTC
2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (On Order)
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  #5  
Old 03-24-2005, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carson356
ther should be below the a/c compressor a little flange that is used to allow the pans to be seperated. here are some pictures regarding application of the sealant, it is critical to follow the pattern and use the correct sealant to avoid having the pan leak
Thanks for the pics. I have the WIS. Now, if I can just pop the pan off without bending it!
__________________
1973 280SE 4.5 (Sold)
1984 LWB 280GE (Sold)
2000 G500 NMLE - "Deep Throat"
2007 ML320 CDI (Sold)
2010 Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia TipTronic (Sold)
2010 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (Sold and Sorely Missed)
2014 ML350 BTC
2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (On Order)
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  #6  
Old 03-24-2005, 03:49 PM
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Putty Knife?

Gilly,

What do you think of the putty knife suggestion that someone made over on the Tech Forum?
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1973 280SE 4.5 (Sold)
1984 LWB 280GE (Sold)
2000 G500 NMLE - "Deep Throat"
2007 ML320 CDI (Sold)
2010 Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia TipTronic (Sold)
2010 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (Sold and Sorely Missed)
2014 ML350 BTC
2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (On Order)
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2005, 06:30 PM
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Could you put a rigid plastic wedge in the space and gently tap it in the space to get the sealant to release?
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2005, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in SC
Could you put a rigid plastic wedge in the space and gently tap it in the space to get the sealant to release?
That's a good question. In the pair of tabs on the side, there's about 1/16"-1/8" of open space to start a wedge, but the wedge can't be any wider than 1/2"-3/4". There's not a lot of space there.

Where would one find rigid plastic wedges?
__________________
1973 280SE 4.5 (Sold)
1984 LWB 280GE (Sold)
2000 G500 NMLE - "Deep Throat"
2007 ML320 CDI (Sold)
2010 Porsche Cayenne S Transsyberia TipTronic (Sold)
2010 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (Sold and Sorely Missed)
2014 ML350 BTC
2015 Audi Q7 3.0 TDI (On Order)
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