Unable To Get Battery To Hold A Charge!

Issue Started A Couple Of Weeks Ago Shortly After Repairing The Drivers Side Window Switch. (related ???) The 3 Yr Old (aprox 25k Miles) Interstate Battery Was Completly Dead Several Days Afterwards. Proceeded With A 24hr 2amp Trickle Charge.... Battery Would Not Hold A Charge And Did Test Bad. Replaced The Battery With Similar Aftermarket. (same Specs..autocraft) That Battery Lasted No More Than Two Days Before It Went Dead And Also Tested Bad Upon Its Return. I Am Now On The 2nd Brand New Battery And Now, It Too Is Failing. The Current Battery Is Testing Good W/12 Amp Between The Posts. The New Battery Will Also Hold A Charge But When The Vehicle Sits Over Night, It's Dead The Next M0rning. Correct Me If I'm Wrong.... But A Component Somewhere Is Drainning The Battery. Fyi, I Have Pulled The Window Switch And Radio Fuses, Let Sit Overnight, Still No Battery. Oh, The Alternator Is Also Testing Good At About 13. (radio Is Factory)

Sorry For The Cheap Novel But Thought I Should Start From The Beginning.

Any And All Relivent Troubleshooting Help Would Be Greatly Appreciated....

The usual thinking is to hook up an amp meter in series with your batteries neg. cable and the batteries neg. post.

Lots of speculation as to what the current draw should be. Add-on gadgetry can raise that value. Many will chime in with what the numbers should be, but in your case, you won't see anything near the numbers that you would expect in a normal situation.

The trick on a vehicle as new as your will be connecting the meter without waking up the system. Doing that will add a large draw. Steve Brotherton posted a few yrs. back on how to do this.

Did this also occur before you worked on the door? If it occurred after, something in the door circuitry is eating juice inspite of a fuse being removed.

This may help:

http://asashop.org/autoinc/may/Techtips.HTM

and

http://www.mightyautoparts.com/pdf/articles/tt63.pdf


Just my 2 cents.

__________________
'91 300-SEL

The problems only started after the window switch repair, which is where I initially went back to. I went in and removed the console again and everything looked ok but while testing did notice that the auto lock button was intermittent and required a little more pressure to activate. I kinda thought this all a coincidence... Maybe not! With the new test procedures sounds like concentrating on the window switches again is the best place to start.