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#1
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Lead casting?
I'm in metals/welding two, and we're past the point of directed projects... Now its do what you want, as long as your working, phase of the class.
We need a few lead hammers, and My teacher has an old hammer head mold. I got some old lead shot, and I have used it for lead working before... It has alot of contaminants (slag?), that form a nasty coat ontop of the melted lead. When you skim it off, you get the nice mirror finish, and a good cast (i think) I have a few questions on exactly how to do this... We dont have any specialty tools/equipment for this, so I need to "rough it" What should I melt the lead in, before pouring it into the mold? How do I keep it one solid object, as in a good cast? If it cools down too much before its all poured, you get a crappy cast... So, I'm really asking how I should be doing this? Ive got equipment to hold the mold, and melt the lead... And (usually) enough equiment/materials to make alot of tools (out of steel, or al) Tks alot ~Nate
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
#2
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You need to handle molten lead under a vented hood, so there is no chance of breathing the vapors. These vapors are extremely dangerous. But you probably knew this, and you probably have the necessary equipment already.
You'll probably have to heat the mold to prevent the lead from freezing on the way in. The lead probably won't freeze on its own while pouring, since it holds a lot of heat. |
#3
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Be sure to use flux, which will bring all the slag to the top so you can scoup it off before you pour.
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#4
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how do I use flux in casting?
Just smear it on the inside of the mold, or what? Didnt know the vapors were bad, and I never noticed any vapors... but I'll do it under a ventilation fan (or wear a mask) T-minus 1 hour till I'm doing this, or at least trying to
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95 Honda Shadow ACE 1100. 1999 Plymouth Neon Expresso. 2.4 swap, 10.5 to 1 comp, big cams. Autocross time attack vehicle! 2012 Escape, 'hunter" (5 sp 4cyl) |
#5
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I used to melt old tire balancing weights into diving belt weights in a cast iron dutch oven on a Coleman propane stove outside. I reckon you are looking for a little finer finished product, but I never had any problems, and never scooped off any crap off'n the top of the mess. I had a small smelting pot, but it wasn't big enough to do the diving weights it was made for making bullets and fishing jigs, I think.
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#6
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Make use of what folks on the Internet have to offer you. Spend a little time with a decent search engine, and you should be able to find a number of articles that could help you understand some of the ins and outs of the casting process - including technical details and safety information.
Some of these may be low-budget DIY folks, some of them may be professional artisans, but don't dismiss any of it out of hand. As an example, some guy may be using expensive equipment that you don't plan to buy, but that doesn't mean that his discourse on the nature and use of flux isn't worth reading. By considering information from a variety of sources, you ought to be able to come up with a sensible initial approach that fits your needs and resources. |
#7
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Old time plumbers used to use lead to seal black iron fittings.
They would just melt it in a pot and pour. I never saw them use any masks or ventilation fans or skim anything. It always had a shiny finish. Just from what I saw, I'm not telling you not to use adequate ventilation. danny
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
#8
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Quote:
flux is used when the metel is molting hot in the crucible, it brings all the impurities to the top and allows you to skim them off.
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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#9
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Quote:
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