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  #61  
Old 07-26-2007, 11:33 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulC View Post
I would wonder if the station wagon version of the w123 used a thicker sway bar in front, as it would have been a good way to balance out any oversteer tendencies on the wagon, which was a little more tail heavy than the sedans. Ditto diesel w123's of any body style, or w123's sold in countries with severe environmental conditions, such as Africa.

I'm not saying they do, but it's worth the research if the aftermarket isn't offering any support.
I believe the wagons do have larger bars front and rear.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #62  
Old 07-26-2007, 11:33 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulC View Post
I think the prime benefit of those bars was to tie the shock/strut towers together for added strength and resistance to front camber changes brought on by tower flex during high lateral loads.
yes. I don't think they are often used except on cars with front struts.

Tom W
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #63  
Old 07-26-2007, 11:39 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
The reds are adjustable too and I have them on the stiffest. I wouldn't know what to do between runs? though. I guess if I had them that way I could try it and see.

Thanks for the comments guys!

Tom W
I thought the Reds had to be taken off to adjust. Shocks mainly control the rate of weight transfer. So for example, if your car is front heavy, you might have the front shocks set softer so the weight transfers more slowly during a turn. Or if you have snap oversteer, you could soften the rear shocks to slow down the speed of the weight transfer at the rear. If you autox a FWD like I do, you'd want full soft in the front and full stiff in the rear to help get the back end around.

Before you even get to that though, you'd probably want to have your alignment set and the car cornerweighted.
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  #64  
Old 07-27-2007, 05:16 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
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yes. the reds are adjustable but as you stated not so easily, iirc. I had an alignment....max negative camber in front (that turned out to be neg 1.5 on one side and 2 on the other, and an eighth of toe out. the caster is nine degrees) I also am running spacers on front and have some I am going to put on back. I am planning to cut the rear springs to lower it there another inch, and I have some internal travel limiters that came out of the shocks on my old beemer that I may put in the shocks to limit body roll instead of the anti sway at least until i figure a way to put another one on the front. Some of the bmws running xcross around here will lift the inside front wheel on a hard turn with the bigger bar on front. That looks cool, I think.

I would like to weigh it at each wheel to see how it is but I don't know of anybody with the needed scales.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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