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#1
03-24-2008, 06:42 PM
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Two Post Lift wiring (conduit)
Looking for some general info when hooking up my two post lift.
The drop for the 220 motor is out in the middle of the room. I can easily run the wires in the ceiling joists the question is when I bring the wirs down to the motor. I assume I need to use conduit (at least it seems like the right thing to do to me). Should I only use metal, plastic, flexible plastic? I'll be running 10-2 NM cable (lift comapny says use 12 gage wire and 30 amp breaker - 30 amp breaker needs 10ga wire). All it needs to do is run straight down from the ceiling so this is roughly a 7 foot span from the box (metal or plastic) that I put on the rafters to the power box on the pump. The wire can be continuous the whole run no need to break it at the box. Any advise or comments? Paul 
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#2
03-24-2008, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
I ran mine from the sub-panel through the ceiling rafters, into a plastic conduit and down to my lift motor/hydraulic unit. I didn't really give it much thought, didn't think I needed to. Do you have a specific concern?
__________________
98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k) 13 GLK250 (135k) 06 E320CDI (323K) 16 C300 (62K) 82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)
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#3
03-24-2008, 10:02 PM
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granted a box is probably overkill. I'm no electrician but I thought both ends of conduit are supposed to terminate in a box. I figured a box up in the rafters would support the conduit better than just clamping the tube to the rafter.
Probably shouldn't worry about it to much. Thanks Paul
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#5
03-25-2008, 12:10 AM
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The general rule for boxes is: If there's more than 360° of bends in the run, then a pull-box is required at each 360° point (this is for conduit runs), then the 360° rule starts again 'til you get to the motor. The idea is to not apply too much pressure on the jacket/insulation as you pull the cable through the conduit...therefore the term "pullbox" -
Example: ...... __ ......│_│———┐ 90° .................. │ ........ ┌———┘ 90° ........ │ 90° ........ │ ........ │ ........ │ 90° .... __ ........ └————│_│ Now, if you're going to run Romex out of the breaker-panel, then at the location, a stub of conduit down to the motor...you might want to check with your local codes to see if that's permissible...I'm guessing it might not be, but I've seen some PRETTY lax codes in the sticks... Good luck and don't burn down anything worth your life...    │ ┌ ┐ └ ┘
__________________
. . M. G. Burg'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K .'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K ..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K ...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K ....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K .....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K ......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp .......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125 . “I didn’t really say everything I said.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~
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#6
03-25-2008, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
__________________
98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k) 13 GLK250 (135k) 06 E320CDI (323K) 16 C300 (62K) 82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)
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#7
03-25-2008, 06:42 AM
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Plastic is easier to work with, but I prefer metal. I would do a box with the conduit coming down, it would look professional if nothing else. just my ho.
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#8
03-25-2008, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
 For small amperage circuits, I could see running Romex-sans-conduit, but I, personally, get a little nervous running anything above 20 Amps without conduit...regardless if it's in the open or not. But then, I'm probably more anal than the average bear!
__________________
. . M. G. Burg'10 - Dakota SXT - Daily Ride / ≈ 172.5K .'76 - 450SLC - 107.024.12 / < .89.20 K ..'77 - 280E - 123.033.12 / > 128.20 K ...'67 - El Camino - 283ci / > 207.00 K ....'75 - Yamaha - 650XS / < 21.00 K .....'87 - G20 Sportvan / > 206.00 K ......'85 - 4WINNS 160 I.O. / 140hp .......'74 - Honda CT70 / Real 125 . “I didn’t really say everything I said.” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ~ Yogi Berra ~
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