People who secure light fixtures to the outlet box using wood screws, because they don't have the #6 or #8 machine screws.

exactly, no need to slam. Just follow through with the door and it will close. My girlfriend slammed my trunk closed on the 300D and the force broke one of the bulb holders and I had to replace it. I showed her how to close a trunk without slamming. All you do is push it down and give it a firm downward push once you feel it latch and its closed.

That kind of reminds me of the people who drive with at least one foot on one pedal at all times... if it's not right down on the accelerator...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

There is a law here...........you must have your right foot mashed all the way down on the accelerator............or the brake.

Coasting is not allowed.

If someone is coasting to a red light in front of you, mash your foot down, pass them on the right, and then mash the brake pedal to stop at the red light.

Coasting is not allowed.

Brake pads are cheap.

Gas is cheap.

I think that is how they train Pan ( or scrapper) drivers--Either full on the throttle, or on the brakes--if necessary drop the bowl-except on a paved road!

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

Brake pads - hmmmmm - I think I remember someone talking about those and when to replace them... it was something to do with a high pitched screeching sound like metal on metal... someone else mentioned "friction welding"? Was it that?

And then someone else talked about not needing brakes and that they were for "pussies"... but I don't know what that means either...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

That's where you leave the driver's door open and stop the vehicle with your left foot on the pavement. Saves the cost of the brake pads.

I don't see a vehicle in your list that I would want to attempt that.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags

The suggestion is for those who need to change pads every 30 days because of the excruciating need to get to that red light.

Brake pads are expensive, you know.

Yah, but I bet they don't realize that they spend far more to buy the fuel to accelerate to Warp Speed than they will spend on the brake pads to decelerate...

Me, I try to drive as if both fuel and brakes cost money. I haven't won a race yet, but it is particularly satisfying to arrive a the red light they got to first, only to see it turn green and I don't have to touch the brakes.

I'm rarely late, either...

I have driven a specific highway segment in CT for the past 20 years. I know it like the back of my hand.

The time to run it if you maintain exactly 65 mph is 32 minutes.

If I'm a bit early for the ferry, I don't need to maintain 65 mph and I slow to 55 mph. The time is exactly 38 minutes.

No matter how I drive it, the time never varies outside of the range of 32 minutes to 38 minutes.

The maximum saving for this 35 mile trip is six minutes..........quite insignificant in the general scheme of things.

As I have always stated, the road determines the time, not the driver.

Years ago I learned that brakes convert energy to heat, and that heat is wasted. I drive in a manner to reduce waste.

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1982 300SD " Wotan" ..On the road as of Jan 8, 2007 with Historic Tags