I have a 1987 Mercedes 560 SEL, I want to convert it over to an Electric cooling fan and electric water pump. Now I have read all the pros and cons of each and frankly it is what all new cars are using, it is proven technology and since I live in Northern Virginia I sit in some of the worst traffic in the nation so I need the extra cooling power. I know many of you have done the Electric fan conversion but have any of you done the Electric Water Pump Conversion? If so, what brand did you use? Thank you.

Having done an electric conversion myself and having seen the results of a conversion with parts from "no name" suppliers, I advise you to make damn sure that what you buy is the best available.

Several electric fan makers now source from TYK, which has a rep for CRAP but has placed themselves as the "low priced" alternative to the majors and now makes for several of them.

I went thru issues with their "OEM" replacements for a Chrysler I owned and know of others who have had the same issues with "name brand" electric fans only to find on disassembly that the guts were TYK made. Sub par wiring, connectors and plain garbage motors.

As to pumps, the same advice applies. In addition consider an extra temp sensor placed in the system where a pump failure will become evident before it becomes a head warping issue.

I would keep the mechanical water pump and possibly add an electrical water pump for additional cooling.

Electric fan all the way. OEM units from similar sized cars in the junkyard seems pretty bulletproof, so long as the miles are low.

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Well, I got a Davis-Craig system, with thermostatic controls. It's for a W123 OM617.9XX engine. It will include a 3" Be-Cool radiator and aftermarket fan, the former doubling the cooling power of the stock radiator. I am waiting on one more piece of aluminum to be machined, and it's going in as soon I as I get the part in. D-C has been around a few years and if these systems can hold up to the Austrain outback, I am pretty sure they can make it in the sunny south (or north). From what I can tell, this system will out perform any MB system of its era any day of the week. Life span is about 7 years which is fine with me. I will swap the precision of thermostaic controls for the stock cooling system anyday of the week. This includes post shut-off cooling for 2 minutes, quicker warm up times, et cet. Total current draw will be around 12-13 amps for the entire system. Because of my new and improved WVO system, I will be adding the stock auxillary coolant pump.

I will be very interested to see how the performance of the electric cooling devices improve the fuel economy. I have never been able to get my mind around it though. I remember from my high school physics class that every conversion between energy types is less than 100%....many are well under 50% the best seem to be more like 90%. Changing from the mechanical water pump to one that is electric changes from one with no conversions (mechanical to mechanical) to one with a conversion from mechanical to electrical and then from electrical back to mechanical (right?). Its hard for me to see how you can come out ahead.

Now you mention better control of cooling and the ability to cool after shut down and I can understand that but cannot see how that will convert to increased fuel economy.

I wish you the best though and am waiting to hear your reports of how it all pans out when you get it all working.

I always wanted to try some aero mods to increase fuel economy further on that car.....a deep front spoiler, smooth wheel covers on front, skirts on the back, an extension of the roof line perhaps and a small relatively flat spoiler on the deck.

I am planning to build up Pancakes the 82 240 I got from TheDon with a fresh engine and at minimum a taller rear end. I might even try putting in a five speed if I decide not to use the wagon I bought from RLeo as is.

Sorry for the thread jack.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

It is the exchange rate. The parasitic drag on the engine by turning a water pump is approximately the equivelant of 6-7 horsepower. There is certainly a parasitic drag on the engine to generate more juice for the electric version, but it's about half worst case scenario. So, it's a trade off. You're now not "using" 3 HP+ to cool the engine. That "savings" will equal less fuel to burn and more performance. These theories have been around forever in the automotive world.

I could tell a real difference when I got rid of the power steering to the manual steering. Admittedly, I am not turning anything to replace the pump, but that did increase my MPG and peppiness of the engine. It is the same exact theory. The pump was robbing about 3-4HP. Now, I "regained" those 3-4 HP. That "increase" means less taking away from the engine.

Same goes with reducing weight. That reduces the parasitic drag on the engine and HP's robbed by pushing more weight. Same with reducing the drag. However, at some point, there is a limit to what MPG that car will get no matter what. Currently, most experts claim that only 2-3% of the engine's power is actually invested in moving the driver. The remainder moves steel, fights drag, pushes pumps, et cet.

I am hoping to get the last machined piece next week. If so, I will post to the Sleeper Part Deux ASAP.

Sorry to hi-jack here.

Cool!

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I would put the effort to fixing the original problem rather than trying to re-engineer the cooling system.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

I agree. From a technical standpoint there are plenty of advantages to the electric fan and waterpump. From a practical standpoint, you would be spending all that money and time to mask a problem that should be fixed.

Best of luck with it and keep us posted regarding the result.

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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual
2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual

Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution

Yes, the above comments about costs are absolutely true. So, you should take that into consideration also. Your costs will be around $700-$800. However, $300 of those costs are for a really nice 3" Be Cool aluminum radiator and fan (you're replacing the clutch fan). Those two items are absolutely necessary for the conversion but also nice just for an upgrade to the current system. The D-C EWP can be found on Ebay for around $300 new vs. $400 thru dealers. There are a few You Tube videos out there too. The remainder is machined aluminum parts for the conversion. Current draw in amps just for this will not necessitate an upgraded altenator. So, it is a very very pricey mod. A new mechanical water pump and new belt is around $100.00. It is also a gamble since I don't know anybody who has done this mod, so you're looking at a few years before I can really report the outcome. Who knows, this could be a big disaster in the making. Might run just great the first year or two, then it turns into a time bandit. I am betting that excluding the items which are nice mods/upgrades which are independent of the EWP, the conversion will pay for itself in about 2 years, give or take. Plus, I like a cleaned up engine bay and a little bit more pep. If you want, I am just waiting on one last machnined part, and after that, it's go time. I will post a bunch of pictures on my thread. This has been cooking for months, and the weather is getting OK for some car time.

Does the electric water pump operate at a constant rpm?

No, there is a a thermostatic control box which is the brains of the unit. It operates a fan also so that the fan will only kick on at a certain temp. You can dial in the temp also, e.g., 80C, 85C, 90C, et cet. Here is the You Tube linke which demonstrates the pump in action.
Davies Craig Electric Water Pumps Demonstration - Performance Garage - YouTube

This was a common issue on the volvo boards for a number of eons. Modding a 240 to increase HP by removing "parasitic drag"...'cept it really didn't do much. Same guys always wanted to "Turbo" a non-turbo B21/B23 or do a 5.0 conversion, not realizing just what was involved...
I knew a few folks who were ANAL about keeping MPG records and a couple did the fan swap, remove a clutch driven fan and install a electric fan, thinking it was the "cold fusion" of volvo-dom and thir MPG would automaticly become 40+...
End result was an average of 6 to 10 more Miles PER TANK! Which worked out to approx .33 to .60 additional MPG in reality. The cost of the conbversion, even with JY parts, could never be realized ('cept we all know that Volvo drivers will keep that brick running until they stop making Gasoline). From a reliability POV, I have personally never had a drive belt on a Volvo snap...not in 9 cars over 25 years.

A 560 has a perfectly fine cooling system, if your is not working, you need to find out what the problem is. If you have corrosion and rust in the water jackets, changing to an electric pump is not going to help. Check the flow of the system by removing the top hose from the radiator. Check the thermostat, is it stuck?

I would have the radiator check and boiled if needed, or replaced if too far gone. Flush the block with citric acid or the like several times.

Electric pumps work well if you get a good one, but keeping the original system is simpler and cheaper. An electric is good for an oddball setup. I have a Porsche 914 with a Chevy 327 and because the engine is in the middle of the car and the radiator up front, a special setup was needed. Actually a pump will not fit on the front of the engine, you need a belt driven marine pump that hangs on the side like an alternator.

The great thing about an electric is you can wire the pump and fan to run when the engine is off and your engine will cool down FAST that way.

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MB-less

I converted to an electric fan in my Volvo 780, didn't see better mileage but did gain some HP. I would think 5 to 6 more HP and it took some of the shaking away.

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1979 Black on Black, 300CD (sold), 1990 Black 300SE, Silver 1989 Volvo 780, 1988 300CE (vanished by the hands of a girlfriend), 1992 300CE (Rescue).