U Joint Help - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Graplr · #1 06-05-2013, 11:49 AM

So on my 94 K2500 Chev Burb, the front ujoint at the transfer case dried out and was making 4x4 really rough. I got the shaft off and the old u joint out without much issue. Go to fit the new u joint and the cap slides right through. So I measure them, the old cap and opening is 1 1/8". The new u joint is 1 1/16". According to everywhere I look the replacement size is 1 1/16". Is this right? The cap won't stay in on its own (obviously I know it needs the snap rings but I assumed it should be at least a close to tight fit. Is there that much of a gap on new u joint caps?

kerry · #2 06-05-2013, 12:00 PM

I'm no expert but I'd say definitely not.

Graplr · #3 06-05-2013, 12:03 PM

Also to add, I first ordered all new ujoints from Rock Auto (my preferred source for burb parts, of course here is my preferred for Mercedes) had the issue so I went to NAPA today and the ujoint is the same size.

kerry · #4 06-05-2013, 12:20 PM

Are your joints for a heavy duty upgrade, say from a 3500 instead of a 2500?

kerry · #5 06-05-2013, 12:21 PM

I've been looking for a burb like that. In fact went to view one on Monday. Every single interior door handle was broken off. Had to roll down the window to exit. Are you happy with yours? Have you moved the pmd and done the cooling upgrades?

Graplr · #6 06-05-2013, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

I've been looking for a burb like that. In fact went to view one on Monday. Every single interior door handle was broken off. Had to roll down the window to exit. Are you happy with yours? Have you moved the pmd and done the cooling upgrades?

I love mine but I've done ALOT of work to it. Was considering selling it to get a diesel Excursion but I just can't justify it.

You probably don't have to worry about rust as much as I do but that is the only thing I don't like about mine. It is rusting at the bottom. I've "fixed" it twice now since I owned it.

Yes, the PMD was moved by a PO to inside the bumper on a heat sync. I have replaced it once. May have had a bad PMD when I bought it. Always carry a known working PMD in the glove box. I think I have done more work to the 6.5 than I have to any Mercedes I've owned. Upgraded oil cooler lines is also a good idea as the OEM are held on by clips. Had the trans rebuilt at 227k (hired out the rebuild but installed myself). Personally I'd go with an OBDI version so you can buy and use the GMTD Scantech software. It is pretty slick. Also, the 94s like mine have the 599 engine block. The later 6.5s are more prone to cracking. I paid about $3k for it about 3.5 years ago and have put a ton of work and money into it but like the Mercedes, if something goes wrong I know what it is and how to fix it so I'm keeping it rather than learning all over on an Excursion Powerstroke. About $3k seems to be the going price around here. Let me know if you have any more specific questions. It is not built for power like the Duramax, Cummins or Powerstroke engines but it also doesn't come with the pricetag of those either.

Graplr · #7 06-05-2013, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

Are your joints for a heavy duty upgrade, say from a 3500 instead of a 2500?

I always enter in 2500 specifically. Plus there was no such thing as a 3500 burb. Maybe that is the issue. Let me look at 3500 u joints.

EDIT: I think you may be on to something. Looked at 94 3500 u joints. The front says 1 1/8 for both transfer case and axle. Looks like I'm heading back to NAPA to get a 3500 ujoint and see if it works.

kerry · #8 06-05-2013, 01:34 PM

I knew there weren't 3500 burbs but I have read of 2500 burbs with a one ton drivetrain installed at the factory.

Air&Road · #9 06-05-2013, 01:44 PM

Every town of any size has a driveshaft shop. It wouldn't cost much if all you need are u-joints. Those guys can glance at a u-joint from five feet away and tell you which part number it is, and they can change a u-joint in a shaft that's out of the vehicle in about five minutes.

Sounds like it would be a few bucks well spent.

Graplr · #10 06-05-2013, 02:12 PM

Getting a 1 1/8" u joint for a 3500 worked perfectly. U joint is on! Don't know why my 2500 burb needs a 3500 u joint. Guys on the 6.5 forum are pretty slow so my discussion proceeded more quickly here and I even got the correct answer with helpful brainstorming!

rscurtis · #11 06-05-2013, 08:54 PM

If you have a 6.5 2500 Suburban, it has the HD driveline with the full-floater corporation 10-1/2" axle. Most Suburbans today use the 9-1/4" semi floating rear.

catmandoo62 · #12 06-05-2013, 11:17 PM

on my 92 1/2 ton pickup with a 6.5 n/a it uses larger u-joints and front wheel bearings then a gasser 1/2 ton.

Graplr · #13 06-06-2013, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rscurtis

If you have a 6.5 2500 Suburban, it has the HD driveline with the full-floater corporation 10-1/2" axle. Most Suburbans today use the 9-1/4" semi floating rear.

Yes, but every single site gave me the 1 1/16" and didn't even list the 1 1/8" as an option.

4x4_Welder · #14 06-07-2013, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Air&Road

Every town of any size has a driveshaft shop. It wouldn't cost much if all you need are u-joints. Those guys can glance at a u-joint from five feet away and tell you which part number it is, and they can change a u-joint in a shaft that's out of the vehicle in about five minutes.

Sounds like it would be a few bucks well spent.

I went to one shop while doing the diesel conversion on my F250, and told them I have this transmission going into this truck. He gave me the part number for a bastard joint to put them together without even looking it up. Hit it right on, too. Gotta love it when someone knows their trade-

MS Fowler · #15 06-07-2013, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4x4_Welder

I went to one shop while doing the diesel conversion on my F250, and told them I have this transmission going into this truck. He gave me the part number for a bastard joint to put them together without even looking it up. Hit it right on, too. Gotta love it when someone knows their trade-

Years ago i was re-doing a '54 Chevy for a friend. the previous owner had already installed the 350/350HP engine, but left some details undone. One detail was the radiator--there was no room for a fan! I took the measurements to a local old-time radiator shop. the OLD guy listened to my description, and pulled out a radiator, and said-"You'll need to put a spacer, about 3 1/2 inches wide on one side of the radiator to block the air from going around the radiator. he NAILED it perfectly!! I, too, was thankful for a person who really knew his trade.