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  #31  
Old 03-05-2014, 12:02 PM
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Well, passed on the 6.0. The guy selling it didn't have much info on the truck, and I wasn't willing to gamble on it.

FWIW - you can bulletproof a 6.0 for around $5k. An aftermarket EGR cooler, head studs, aftermarket HPOP, and a coolant filter are all that are really needed to make one last a long time.

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  #32  
Old 03-05-2014, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarTek View Post
By the time 06, 07 rolled around, the 6.0 was pretty well sorted out. I've seen them run back to back with the 7.3 and the 6.0 is a much more refined engine. 4 valve heads and it sounds like a beast with a good exhaust next to the oddly fluttering 7.3.

Plus, a plug in box will provide upwards of 400 HP.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy my 7.3 but it's old tech compared to the 6.0. Also keep in mind that the 6.0 wasn't just made for the F-series. It's well utilized, working hard every day as the VT365 in the 4000 series International trucks.

Oh, and one last thing: The 6.0 has the excellent torque shift automatic while the 7.3 has the troublesome A4OD or whatever it is. Mine is a manual 6 speed.
The exhaust warmup flapper always sounded weird. Buddy has a 7.3 in his work truck with a straight pipe the dumps right behind the cab. Hard launches sound like a cross between a helicopter and a tractor.

From what I've heard, don't buy a 6.0 unless it's already at 300k and has proven itself.
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  #33  
Old 03-05-2014, 01:15 PM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwrock View Post
Well, passed on the 6.0. The guy selling it didn't have much info on the truck, and I wasn't willing to gamble on it.

FWIW - you can bulletproof a 6.0 for around $5k. An aftermarket EGR cooler, head studs, aftermarket HPOP, and a coolant filter are all that are really needed to make one last a long time.
I get what you're saying, and agree with PMs/mods, but if you have to drop 5k to make a stock engine reliable it's not a good engine.
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  #34  
Old 03-05-2014, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honus View Post
The original pump went out and we replaced it with an aftermarket version that was recommended by a knowledgeable diesel mechanic. The truck now has an intermittent rough idle (especially after running at highway speed for a while), but otherwise runs smoother with with new HPOP. I can't remember the brand name.
That is odd. The pressure is controlled by the IPR so is the program set up for the pump?
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  #35  
Old 03-05-2014, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simpler=Better View Post
The exhaust warmup flapper always sounded weird. Buddy has a 7.3 in his work truck with a straight pipe the dumps right behind the cab. Hard launches sound like a cross between a helicopter and a tractor.

From what I've heard, don't buy a 6.0 unless it's already at 300k and has proven itself.
You can change a couple things and it will delete the EBPV. Unless you have an Excursion or a CA truck it should not throw a code.

I wouldn't say that. I would get the truck and fix the necessary stuff.
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  #36  
Old 03-05-2014, 09:36 PM
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  #37  
Old 03-05-2014, 09:39 PM
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The 6.0 is fine

The problem is with all of the people bad mouthing it. Think of it as the Solex 4 barrel of Ford diesels. Everyone on here *****es about the Solex 4barrel carb and yet the one on my 73 280 has racked up 24,000 miles in four years.

An engine is an engine with a finite number of issues. Let a sloppy person work on it and you will have a sloppy engine.
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  #38  
Old 03-05-2014, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by aklim View Post
Why is that? Does it really do anything? I changed mine to the hotter one and it didn't really make any difference. Also why a 3 in down pipe with a 4 in exhaust? Why leave the restriction there? Why not 4 all the way?
On a diesel engine, running a hotter thermostat helps promote ignition and runs a little more efficient.
I have the 3" down pipe because it is the elbow that is bolted directly to the turbo and runs down the firewall.......... clearance at the firewall is very tight. The only way I could have used a 4 inch down pipe would have been to either pound a serious dent in my firewall or lift the cab, which I didn't want to do.
so my 3 inch down pipe replaces the very restrictive pancaked ford down pipe, and once my exhaust gets clear of the firewall it becomes 4 inch all the way to the muffler & tail pipe.
I did not do my mods necassarily to gain power, but to help optimize fuel mileage. I tow a 24 foot enclosed trailer with tools in it and usually about a 2500 pound race car in the trailer.

I also have a pizza box jammed in front of my radiator during the cold winter months as it gets cold here in Kansas.
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  #39  
Old 03-05-2014, 09:51 PM
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Why does my inner 10 year ol giggle each time I see the thread title...? LOL
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  #40  
Old 03-05-2014, 10:13 PM
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I've been thinking of selling my 1995 F250 Powerstroke XLT. But after reading this thread maybe I'll keep it a few more years.
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  #41  
Old 03-05-2014, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain V. View Post
On a diesel engine, running a hotter thermostat helps promote ignition and runs a little more efficient.

I have the 3" down pipe because it is the elbow that is bolted directly to the turbo and runs down the firewall.......... clearance at the firewall is very tight. The only way I could have used a 4 inch down pipe would have been to either pound a serious dent in my firewall or lift the cab, which I didn't want to do.
so my 3 inch down pipe replaces the very restrictive pancaked ford down pipe, and once my exhaust gets clear of the firewall it becomes 4 inch all the way to the muffler & tail pipe.

I did not do my mods necassarily to gain power, but to help optimize fuel mileage. I tow a 24 foot enclosed trailer with tools in it and usually about a 2500 pound race car in the trailer.

I also have a pizza box jammed in front of my radiator during the cold winter months as it gets cold here in Kansas.
That is the reason the 205 degree stat was built. Not sure how much it helps in reality. I know I didn't see anything different mileage wise that was significantly different from stock when I tried it for a couple of years.

I forgot. Earlier trucks had to have the firewall hammered out. Not sure how much restrictions there is in the rest of the system. That is why I didn't buy the cat back system and got the same exhaust WITH the 4 in down pipe.

As to fuel economy, I did see cruising improvement with a PI Stallion torque converter. Using a program suited for economy also helped.
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99 E300 Turbodiesel
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  #42  
Old 03-05-2014, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aklim View Post
That is odd. The pressure is controlled by the IPR so is the program set up for the pump?
The pump manufacturer says that the pump is compatible with the stock program. I'm pretty sure that this is the pump I got: http://www.dieselsite.com/1994-200373ldieselsiteadrenalinehpop.aspx
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  #43  
Old 03-06-2014, 03:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honus View Post
The pump manufacturer says that the pump is compatible with the stock program. I'm pretty sure that this is the pump I got: http://www.dieselsite.com/1994-200373ldieselsiteadrenalinehpop.aspx
I suspect that if you get the right program in the ECM, you will get rid of the unstable part of the intermittent rough idle. I'd definitely make sure fuel pressure is consistent
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow
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  #44  
Old 03-06-2014, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honus View Post
The pump manufacturer says that the pump is compatible with the stock program. I'm pretty sure that this is the pump I got: http://www.dieselsite.com/1994-200373ldieselsiteadrenalinehpop.aspx
Nice, I have the same pump and a GT038R turbo that have both been waiting for about 5 years to get installed...
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  #45  
Old 03-06-2014, 07:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain V. View Post
On a diesel engine, running a hotter thermostat helps promote ignition and runs a little more efficient.

I also have a pizza box jammed in front of my radiator during the cold winter months as it gets cold here in Kansas.
Ah, the West Virginia thermostat..

I've upgraded my manual thermostat from cardboard to a pair of those flexible cutting boards used in food preps. Thin, white nylon(?), slides in between the rad and the condenser, and doesn't deteriorate when wet.
I keep 'em behind the seat when I don't need them.

Jim
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