The gaskets, special bolts and myriad other little things are what makes or breaks a proper repair and you're wise to ask .

Best bet is to copy and save one of the many different Electronic Parts Catalog links offered here and always take some time to search and look closely at the diagrams as they'll show you those little parts and give the correct part numbers too .

Often the Enthusiast DIY'er has no idea they might need something until the job is 1/2 done .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

All right i'm confused.
The downpipe part# is 1234908219 which i ordered the improved ANSA version of which i'm not going to doubt about being correct. Done deal i think. It's their own proprietary part number but whatever, everyone says it's way better than the OEM.

I also ordered 202-492-01-81 to connect the bottom of downpipes to center exhaust pipe...

....But some people show this part as a rubber ring https://www.ecklersmbzparts.com/mercedes-seal-ring-22439.html and some people show it as a substantially chunky metal ring.

This diagram here has no appearances of metal rings, and shows just the one rubber ring at the bottom connection. https://www.ecklersmbzparts.com/diagram/view/index/id/156

But then you discover that there might be a part that connects to the top of the downpipe as well, 107-492-14-09
, which here at pelican you can see looks identical to the one at the bottom of the downpipes https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/3306/MBZ_3306_EXHPIP_pg1.htm shows them both next to each other. Clearly pelican thinks there are two rings, and they are both metal.

So, are there rubber rings involved? Or not? And do i need two? And do i actually need two metal rings AND two rubbers rings?? Sigh. Pelican shows no rubber ring at all!! And why are we sharing part numbers ?? Part numbers are not for sharing !!!

What would you guys do?

There are no rubber rings. Rubber would not last 5 minutes in an exhaust system. There are rubber "O" shaped rings, but they are hangers, not seals.

If in doubt, get access to the EPC and type in your VIN and it will give you an exploded diagram of everything you need for your specific car. That should answer any and all questions you may have for your immediate needs!

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

So ;

How's it starting in this dang cold ? .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

You need the one seal between the head pipe and manifold :
Part #: 107-492-14-09-MBZ



Then, you'll need four of these exhaust hangers, this is the vastly improved one that has a loop of bicycle chain molded inside it and so will never break : Part #: 107-492-00-44-MBZ

FWIW, part #'s ARE for dissemination and trading ! that's the entire point of these forums : to help others who've gone before you to let you know they easier and better way.....

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

haha! that's not what i meant.
i meant that PARTS should not be sharing numbers !!!!
one part, one number please !

I'm a little confused about the rubber hangers though.. are these to replace the rubber donuts that hang up the rear muffler? you'll have to excuse me on this.. i would go look under my car but i don't have access to it for a few days and would like to order what i need now..

The new style cable-reinforced hangers are so much better than the crappy "donut" hangers. They're harder to install, but they'll never rip out and let the exhaust drag!

__________________
Current stable:
1995 E320 157K (Nancy)
1983 500SL 125K (SLoL)

Gone but not forgotten:
1986 300SDL (RIP)
1991 350SD
1991 560SEL
1990 560SEL
1986 500SEL Euro (Rusted to nothing at 47K!)

Gone and wanting to forget:
1985 524TD 167K (TotalDumpster™) [Definitely NOT a Benz]

Ok great. I will do this, but i was already planning on doing this myself relatively soon. Like when i such the vehicle down for a week in the late spring, for all the turbo and exhaust manifold work and the dashboard swap. The donuts are doing ok right now, but i will replace them.

Just wanted to confirm that they weren't something to order for this specific gig i'm hiring out to the shop, which is the downpipe install.

Sounds like i'm good to go then. Can't wait to breath clean air. I've been wearing a mask!!!

Those chained ones are pricey here on pelican though. 25/piece. So a 100$ muffler suspension job. Looks like i found some elsewhere for 8$ a piece, and although they don't mention the brand, they say they are chained. Too risky?

Well ;

The cheapo ones work fine but the rubber rots away fairly quickly .

I've never seen one fail yet though ~ they just look bad .

They have a loop of chain inside, not cable .

The Muffler shop should install them at no additional charge when he's fixing the pipe as they will prevent the job from failing when they original all rubber do - nuts fail and drag the muffler over pot holes and man hole rings etc....

Get the cheapo ones and have them ready to show / hand to the Mechanic when you drop the car off for the pipe replacement .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I see. Thanks. yeah i hadn't realized they'd be doing such a disconnection of the rear end of the exhaust.
i already have brand new cheap-o ones in my stash of new parts. So i'll hand him those!
thanks

It's been smooth as long as i follow the protocol with the throttle... But that leaves me with a question, as i've been wondering if there is something i need to look into specifically like fuel injectors possibly needing to be cleaned or something. Let me explain..

in november, i did a diesel purge on this vehicle. The next day, it was cooincidentally the first real cold day of the late fall. So, that throws off my variables which is why i'm confused. But basically, the day after the diesel purge, i noticed the engine sorta lumping a little bit after startup, sounding and feeling like a skipped heartbeat. I assumed immediately that the purge caused the fuel filters to get clogged up, which is exactly what i knew to expect to happen from a diesel purge. But i didn't put in new fuel filters and just drove around knowing that it would go away once i put in new filters. I knew that i was going to need to push a little fuel through the somewhat cloggy filters during startup, which is what i did every day and it always ended up fine. For example, i would start it up (not using the "method" yet since i didn't know about that) and if it lumped a little bit i'd give some throttle to get passed it and within maybe 5 seconds of gentle throttle it'd be totally fine.

So, a month or so later, i put in new filters, both of them. But to my surprise, the problem didn't go away.

But mind you, this is now all during like December and January. So, i don't have any way to know if i was simply dealing with a winter w123 or if i was dealing with some other issue.

And that's where i'm still at now, but now that i use the "method," there is already a bunch of juice. However, we've been deeper into the colder weeks of winter, which means i have more adversity in the engine, which means that i'm sorta still doing the same thing.. i do the method first, and then engine starts up immediately, but then if i completely let off the throttle it will SOMETIMES skip a little bit. And it seems directly related to temp. On super cold days, it will be worse. But always, if i keep just a smidge of throttle going for may 5 seconds after turnover, it smooths out and is great for the rest of the day.

So i've been not worrying about it, and assuming that when spring shows up, this will more or less go away. I would like to have a smoother start next winter, and i will be doing things all year long to make the engine better overall.

Any thoughts?

But as for the actual initial turnover on startup, it seems excellent to me. Quick and smooth, and more often than not i am actually holding on to the ignition a blip too long than what the startup even required. So it seems pretty good, actually. Sorta surprises me. But i don't know anything about how to evaluate the initial startup quality.

It's what happens just after that seems sluggish.

It seems obvious to me that it is fuel-to-engine related. So, is it possible i need to clean my fuel injectors? Is this a symptom of this?

I do plan to take like a whole week this spring (this is what i call a vacation) and give some love to the engine. From what i can tell, cleaning the fuel injectors is not difficult, but i haven't looked into it too deeply yet.

In Winter this sounds normal to me as you say once it gets warm it's fine .

before touching the injectors, do a valve adjust as even slightly tight valves hinder cold starting and cause running issues .

To do the injectors you'll need a pop tester and shims etc. ~ better to search your area until you find a Diesel Service Center that has the proper injector tools and will test them for you, many do it for free if you come in when they're not busy, others charge $5 per injector, cheap to discover one bad or know they're all fine .

When it's really cold, follow the drill but wait for the seat belt light to go out ~ that's a bit longer than the glow plug light so they heat more .

Not really necessary if it fires rapidly now .

The need to give it a little bit of throttle is normal when it's really cold and right now NY looks really cold .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

Is there ever a time when NY will not look cold to you from so cal?
It's 37 here, and it feels like spring!!!

OBTW : I think you were grumbling about low heat ? .

There's a couple things : ? does the temp. gauge ever make it to 80* ? . if so the thermostat is fine, if not replace it in the Spring .

Next, look in the body well behind the right headlight, plumbed into the heater hose is a small electric coolant pump who's job is to ensure plenty of rapid heat in really cold weather, it's supposed to be oiled twice a year but never is and most of them simply don't work .

The good news is : the price has dropped and they're only $100 or so, TEST IT before buying another one .

Brown wire is ground, black wire is positive, unplug it and make up a jumper wire to the battery ~ it *must* begin to whir very quietly .

If it doesn't or is loud, or makes a big spark when you connect it, it's DEAD DON'T FOOL WITH IT FURTHER .

Like everything else on this car it's simple and easy to diagnose and fix .

If you find it and the wire is unplugged, it's dead, just buy a new one .

Prices vary wildly, I'd ask who makes the replacement, BOSCH or other brand name (NOT 'Uro' !) will be fine no matter what country it's made in .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better

I lived in Rochester,NY (390 Wellington A. in case anyone wants to go look and tell me how it is now) and was born and raised a (damn) Yankee so I know all about the cold .

I grew up with pre war 6 volt vehicles trying to crank them up in January, don't miss it much .

=8-) .

BE SAFE out there ! .

__________________
-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better