Is it possible to remove a window motor without removing the regulator? The car is a 1992 400E, front passenger side window. Of course it seems easier to remove just the motor rather than the regulator with motor, but the other problem is that the window is not working at all. The Haynes manual, in describing how to take out the regulator, starts by saying "lower the window glass fully" - which I can't do because the window doesn't move at all.

So I really have two questions: 1) can the motor be removed separate from the regulator, and 2) if not, how do you take out the regulator/with motor, when the glass won't go down. Thanks for any help.

Having now tried this, the answer to the first question is - no, the window motor will not come out separately from the regulator, they have to come out together. There's three bolts attaching the motor to the regulator but it's way too tight to get at them in the car.

I'm still wrestling with the second issue - how to get the regulator out when the window is stuck in the up position.

You've actually stumbled on a great conundrum.

Well actually you haven't.

The window motor can be removed from the regulator while still in the car. In fact, if the motor is dead with the window up. You will have to remove it first in order to even remotely have a chance to get it out.

There is actually enough room to get a shallow 10mm socket and a small wrench (we are talking 1/4" drive size) in there.

Without removing the motor you would have to overcome the leverage of the regulator and overcome the motor (which even when operational is designed to resist moving without power applied).

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

Thanks - I'll try it again.

I hesitate to ask this, no offence, but are you sure it's the motor that doesn't work? Your post doesn't say if you tried testing the leads to the motor, which you can do with an extra battery or a charger. The leads are probably black/green, + to one will turn it clockways, counterclockways to the other, neg on opposite lead.

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

I'm sure it's the motor - it's got juice, it clicks, it just won't do anything. And also now sure that the motor does not come out without the regulator. There's no room at all to take the bolts out - less than 1/8 inch between the regulator and the inner door panel - at least on a 124 body. This seemingly leaves only one solution - turn the motor somehow to lower the glass, so that the regulator/motor can be removed.

Sorry I missed the model type. I was thinking in W123 terms. It seems odd to me that they'd turn things around on the 124s.

On the 123's the bolts are on the other side. If the window were down it would be difficult to remove the bolts, but with the window up its quite easy.

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'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

I'm at a bit of a loss here, because my familiarity is with the W126, and an older 116 I had, but if I understand your situation, the bolts you need to remove are behind the inner door-skin, 1/8" or so, so no room to manouver an end wrench. But if the bolts are facing the doorskin, not sideways, how about taking a 3/4" hole saw and drilling out enough to get a socket on them? This method is actually the shop manual way to get at the regulator bolts on a 126 (or was that a 116? Front or rear door? I forget).

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1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus

You know.. I've heard that before.. and wondered why one would cut holes when the bolts were the other way around.

It all makes sense now.. they weren't talking about the 123 but the 124....

donbryce is right. You'll need to cut holes in the inner door skin to get to those bolts.

__________________
'84 300CD Turbo 132k (Anthracite Grey) - WVO - My daily driver - Recently named coo-coo-coupe by my daughter.
'84 300D Turbo 240k (Anthracite Grey) - Garage Queen
'83 300D Turbo 220k (Orient Red) - WVO - Wifes daily driver

I'm not a certified mechanic, but I did stay at a HolidayInn Express last night.

Thinking more about James' suggestion it occured to me that when I say there's no room to get at the bolts, I was checking it with the regulator still bolted in place. I'm going to try to loosen or remove the regulator bolts and see if I gain enough room to get at the motor bolts. If that fails I may have to try drilling the door skin. This is a slow motion project, summer in AZ, and the AC is working fine, but I will follow up here when I get back to it. Thanks for the help.