car ran on 3 maybe 3 and a half cylinders out of 4.

useless repairs: replaced spark plug cables $75 because the boot got a fingernail sized crack on it.

turns out it's the sparkplugs that the last owner never changed since new - 215K on the odometer.

you have seen everything when you see sparkplugs that are rusted along the tread, as well as on the L shaped terminal...... solid solid rust brown.

new NGKs and it's better than ever.

Took my clk to the indie I trust to check the front brakes; he said I needed pads & rotors. No surprise, they were original. He lets me purchase the parts, so I bought them and returned the car to him. When I picked it up a day or two later, the first thing he said: Who told you you needed new rotors?

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)

Guys, thanks for the replies on the "wanderer".
to respond:
- the 300E is unfortunately a more modern rear suspension. The S-Class uses the old subframe with swing arms. I replaced the subframe bushings and diff support, which are reported to be "wander culprits". Toe is in spec, I would adjust it a bit, but it's not adjustable as far as I can discern.
- I run about 34 psi on the tires, I have tried a lot lower, but never higher than 35, I might pump them to 40 and make a trial run. Of course then it would ride like a tank (wait, it is a tank!).

Thanks again, any comments welcome. Right now if you told me to hang a crow's foot from the mirror and burn incense in the ash tray, I'd try it!

cheers,
DG

Had an '88 deville once, and decided to replace the rubber swaybar link bushings with those plastic ones (I forget what kind), thinking that the body roll might be reduced. Nope...not that I could tell anyway. As a matter of fact, I ended up having to replace a link, because one popped a nut. (not a big deal time or money wise...just a pita)

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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein


09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

In order to eliminate such squell is to use OE brake pads or OEM brake pads and don't forget to put back the original Sheem. replacement brake pads are the common cause of the irritating sound.

on the contrary my Toyota squealed like a pig when it had pads with shims on it, then I took out the shim, guess what, no more squeal.

Toyota is a bit on the Masochistic side, I tell ya.

The 90 300e was running worse and worse. Often it would stumble at start up, be OK until fully warm and then would constantly die unless the RPMs were kept high.

I searched these threads, I changed too many parts to admit, I tested, I checked, I replaced more parts (plugs, rotor, caps, E-everything) .... still the same problem.

With great humility I took it to my local indie. I waited for "the list" and how much...... I brought a book to help me through the long wait in the customer waiting area.

Within minutes the car was out of the shop and running like new. Bad coil. But everyone said "those coils never fail ......".

Mine did.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

try avoiding the use of non original or non OEM brake pads, you'll have less chance of sufferring the squell.