Hey folks -- dumb question, but every site I look at for 190E strut pricing pictures the KYB struts as a pair... does anyone know whether they're sold as a set? Seems ridiculously cheap (under $100 for a pair at many places, while Boge's and Bilsteins are significantly more and are presumably sold [and pictured] each).

I understand many have found fault with the KYBs' quality, but on my budget, I just can't spend well over 2x the price for a pair of the better struts. If they are sold each, though, it would be an easier choice to try and wait, save the $, and buy the better struts and shocks.

Thanks!

Chris
88 190E 2.3

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1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

i don't know but kyb were really good gas shocks back in the 70's. had 4 on my nova. yep chevy nova, 6, three speed autoand it also had teflon bushings. picked up a stranded porsche driver back to his hotel room and he commented that the nova cornered flatter than his 911. OKAY!!

I had Bilstein Heavy Dutys on my old car (1998 190e 2.3 8v) and have to say that they are by far the best shocks I ever bought. I have only ever bought Bilstein since then. I like to buy quality that way I don't have to keep changing the same parts over and over again. Shop around and you will probably be able to get them for a price that's not too far off of other lower quality brands. Here is a site with some pricing:

http://www.allshocks.com/bilstein/html/show_shocks.asp?make='MERCEDES%20BENZ'&model='190,%20190E,%20190D'&year='1988'

On the other hand, if cost is what's the most important to you right now than maybe this might help
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7929520284&category=33590&sspagename=WDVW

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1989 300CE Astralsilber/Schwarz
1992 300CE Schwarz/Schwarz

Go with bilsteins. Like Lino said they can be found online at decent prices. Cheapest I've seen was something like $65 each for rears.
Don't skimp on quality now as you'll only regret it later. I'm sure they're OEM on Mercs for a reason.

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1993 320TE M104
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past:

1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
1992 300E W124 M103
1994 E280 W124 M104
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"music and women I cannot but give way to, whatever my business" -Pepys

KYBs tend to be HARD and ride like Monroes.

Stick with Bilsteins unless you simply cannot afford them and you have totally dead shocks.

Bilsteins usually fail by starting to knock on large deflection, they very rarely go squishy. Eventually they get to riding VERY hard (from oil loss) and need to be replaced. IF they don't crash and bang, save you pennys and wait until you can afford OEM shocks.

If you have a serious bouncing problem, KYBs will be better than what you ahve, but I'd guessing you won't like them.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Cash is an issue at the moment... I'm torn here. The car is bouncy as hell, and wanders all over the highway. I just bought this car Friday and that's my biggest complaint. First up: shocks & struts, and probaby brakes (resurface rotors, and add new pads, hopefully, should fix the odd pedal feel).

This isn't going to be a race car... it's a commuter car which will be well cared for, but my "fun" car is my Mustang. That one rides on Eibachs and Konis, with all sorts of suspension goodies. I just want to lose the bounce ASAP; are the Bilsteins that much better?

Thanks!

Chris

__________________
1992 300D 2.5T
1980 Euro 300D (sadly, sold)
1998 Jetta TDI, 132K "Rudy"
1974 Triumph TR6
1999 Saab 9-5 wagon (wife's)

Assume they are priced each unless specifically stated otherwise.

Don't bother with drilled rotors, they crack badly in street use and reduce braking in normal use (they are better in racing applications because they reduce weight and maybe dissipate heat better -- you are not, I suspect, making repeated stops from 100+ mile per hour every three or four minutes).

Another note -- the car has ABS, and very hard braking will activate it. It shows up only as a pulsation in the pedal, quite similar to warped rotors on dry pavement. On ice and snow, it's much more noticable because it happens at very light brake applications sometimes. You may get some groaning on dry pavement, too.

That means you may not need brakes yet -- take a look it's easy to tell how much pad there is.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!