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  #1  
Old 11-09-2004, 03:57 PM
Enjoys driving MB
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Sweden
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M103 2,6 wont start correctly

Hello
as you see im an swedish newbie on this forum (sorry for my bad english)
I have an problem with a M103 2.6 with KE-Jet injection. It wont start correctly when cold if it have been parked for several hours. its not the coldstartinjector or something like that (changed). My fathger or someone else have to push dovn the plate that measures the air (its not in the right position), if i try to adjust on the CO-adjuster its just gets weat.

when i have started the engine it runs like a purring cat its no problem either to stop and start it again after a half an hour. do i have to unmount the Fuel distributior/air measure and adjust it?
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  #2  
Old 11-10-2004, 12:54 AM
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Did it cold start poorly last summer? Is the cold starting behavior getting better or worse as the ambient temperatures decrease with fall weather.

Once you get it started from cold does it have a smooth fast idle somewhere between 900 and 1200 and decrease as the engine warms?

It could be the KE temperature sensor.

Duke
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  #3  
Old 11-10-2004, 08:09 AM
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I've changed the KE teperature sensor.
it started okay in summer but the idle speed rised to, sometimes 2000 rpm:s so i had to shut down the engine and restart it. nowadays it runs on 750 RPM all the time, even cold (wel it's "rattle" a bit for a minute or so) and the start problems have nothing to do with the temerature. when i bought it it didnt run at all, tried to start it with startergas but its just "poffed" heavy, can the "airmeaurething" have come out of sync? my father says so and i belive more and more on that..... well im thankful for your help, and all others for that part
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  #4  
Old 11-10-2004, 09:50 AM
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Read throughthis thread . It covers the kind of problem you're having. It's how I cured similar starting problems with my 260E (same engine). There are good links in that thread to adjusting the mixture in the fuel injection.

You might also look at your plugs/wires/distributor cap & rotor. Not necessarily change them, just check them over. Also check over the engine for vacuum leaks, they can make the mixture too lean.

Your english is excellent. Better than my swedish.
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Last edited by nglitz; 11-11-2004 at 11:30 AM.
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  #5  
Old 11-10-2004, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nglitz
Read throughthis thread . It covers the kind of problem you're having. It's how I cured similar starting problems with my 260E (same engine). There are good links in that thread to adjusting the mixture in the fuel injection.

You might also look at your plugs/wires/distributor cap & rotor. Not necessarily change them, just check them over. Also check over the engine for vacuum leaks, they can make the mixture too lean.

Your english is excellent. Better than my swedish.
The plugs/wires/distributor cap & rotor was the first things I've measured up and changed, the wires was okey when i used the multimeter on them, plugs and distributor parts did I change, have checked vacuum also, it runs without problems or hesitations up to 6500 rpm (hot engine of course )

thank for the Credit for my english

EDIT: Btw, the link to your thread doesn't work
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Last edited by mercafreaket; 11-10-2004 at 02:07 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-11-2004, 04:33 AM
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i can add with that i can REV the engine without problems up to 7000RPM from idle with gear in neutral, it yells nice but its not good for the valves....
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  #7  
Old 12-06-2004, 01:31 PM
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I had a similar problem in my 300E which I fixed by installing a resistor to richen the mixture a bit when the engine is cold. Do a search for posts by me and you will find a link to how to do it in a reply to a post about rough idle.
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  #8  
Old 12-10-2004, 07:33 PM
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aaaaargh...... the car's driving me crazy no rough idle but still the same problem, the rubberpart of the airmass is intact, so it isn't that part....

can it be a spring inside the airflow that isn't correctly fitted?

when i try to adjust the CO it's react directly if i adjust it just "a pair of minutes" CC or CCW if u know what i mean
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Last edited by mercafreaket; 12-10-2004 at 07:37 PM. Reason: added some facts
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  #9  
Old 12-10-2004, 09:47 PM
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Norm, did your car pass the smog test after EHA adjustment?
Is your car running still better than before the adjustment?
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2004, 06:50 PM
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empty with ideas?
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  #11  
Old 12-12-2004, 01:40 AM
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Patrik:

Click on the thread I have shown below and look at what Steve Brotherton had to say. His forum name is SteveBfl. The model of car in this post is different than yours, but it too has a 103 motor. You might have an air leak.

Starting fluid(ether) may help you find an air leak.



http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=91938&highlight=push
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Last edited by Mike Murrell; 12-12-2004 at 02:28 AM.
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2004, 11:14 AM
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Thanks for the link Mike, That's almost the same problems as I have
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2005, 03:12 PM
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ITS ALIVE!!!!!!
The rubbering hose that's sit between the throttle valve and the Air mass meter had "escaped" from its place, the bloody thing took the air that way, so the engine couldn't "suck down" the plate when starting and it didn't get any gasoline!!!

I'm so happy right now!!!! its just the handbrake and some paintjob left, and change the windscreen that i broked in the autumn
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