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#17
11-21-2004, 12:48 PM
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The NSS is just in the crank circuit.
When you say the sol clicks, are you referring to the sol on the starter ?? If the starter sol is clicking ,then you have to have to see a light working at the test terminal near the booster Anythin after that test point goes to the starter . it is the FEED line to the starter sol.. the NSS circuit feeds that point , so if No light there ,the problem is before that test point..ie-NSS, ignition, ATA ,etc Have you tried both N and P ??????? The adjustment could also be off from when the sw was installed .. this is checked by holding the key to start while moving the shifter on both sides of the N gate...you can not do this in P cuz P is at the END of the gate [ no room to go past it to allow for mis-adjustment] 
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#18
11-21-2004, 01:30 PM
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Arthur,
I tried P and N positions several times yesterday and today, also moving the shift lever side to side in N as you suggest, with no improvement. I assume the click I hear is the starter solenoid. The click comes from the engine compartment. Maybe I did not test with the lamp correctly. I connected the red alligator clip to the engine lifting ring, pushed the probe through the purple/white insulation, turned the key to start, and the light did not illuminate. I got under the car and believe the locking ring on the NSS connection is OK. It is in the 'down' position. If I push it 'up' I can wiggle the connection, but in the down position, the connection is tight. regards, Mark
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#19
11-21-2004, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
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#21
11-21-2004, 02:43 PM
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Next you get a wiring diagram and test the circuit in stages, including the relay I pointed out about a dozen posts ago.
__________________
Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician
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#22
11-21-2004, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Well, Now you know that part is cool..... Anyway, as SB pointed out , the ATA cicruit is suspect as you have changed the NSS.. The relay for that circuit is quite complex and behind the speedo, so you may want to get your Indy up to speed on where it stands and what you have found It can get tricky from there back.. I will take a schematic peak and see if there is anything that I consider easy DIY test as we have been doing ..but you may want some "On the scene ' help from here .. I will check Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 11-21-2004 at 04:07 PM.
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#23
11-21-2004, 03:08 PM
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While the alarm system might be complicated the relay is not. It is a simple 5 pin relay and the easy way to test its function in the circuit is to just by pass it and see if it starts. if it does then one must decide if the alarm is keeping it open or whether it has just failed.
__________________
Steve Brotherton Continental Imports Gainesville FL Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1 33 years MB technician
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#25
11-21-2004, 03:18 PM
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The pins to jumper at the relay [K-38] are 3 and 4 ..
If that works , then relay itself or relay primary circuits... I do not see an easy access to it, aside from the NSS.. One question we have not asked and prob should have is ' Do you have an after-market remote start device... ?? Anyway, the feed circuits to the realy are where you are better taking it in..
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#26
11-21-2004, 03:25 PM
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**TYPO Error **
The above post jumper on K-38 should read terminals 3 and 1, not 3 and 4.. This eliminates the relay circuit.. 1- VI 3- V/Gn
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#27
11-21-2004, 07:14 PM
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Arthur,
I do not have an aftermarket remote start. Replacing the relay does not appear to be difficult, just remove the instrument panel. But if a new relay does not solve the problem, how much of the car's interior comes apart to trace the circuits? Alternately, can we bypass the alarm system to allow the engine to start? Mark
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#28
11-21-2004, 07:25 PM
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Are you at the relay???
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#30
11-21-2004, 08:29 PM
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The relay is just in the NSS circuit to interrupt the start power to the NSS switch.. when the alarm system is activated [ Armed]
It is between the ignition sw and the NSS... and for crank, you need power from ign. sw , through K-38 relay contacts , through NSS sw , to the Terminal I had you hook the test light to under the hood .. so, somewhere in that chain is the problem...All the inputs of the doors/locks and stuff feed the primary side of this relay... But , as SB mentioned .. the actual sw/contacts side of the relay can be by- passed as a test , so.. yes, it can be by -passed to crank/start the car.. you just won't have an alarm system The schematic actually shows a sub-schematic *notation* with this circuit by-passed on the CDN models.. so , I guess it was just the US versions that got the alarm as standard equipment..[ according to the schematic -- don't call me on that, people] The previous post terminal #s/colors I mentioned will do just that.. If jumping those 2 terminals does not do the trick, forget the alarm/relay .. that is not the problem.. by jumping those 2 wires , you are doing exactly what the relay is supposed to do...so, if jumper does do the trick, you have a bad contactor in the relay or a feed to the primary side of the relay. .. the feed circuit for the relay is where you have to start tracing interior wires/lock/etc.. and that is what I was referring to as tricky for a DIYer.. Your Indy prob has the schematic for this , but if not ..email me and maybe I can send him one somehow... One can also tell if the contacts of K-38 are good without going to the actual relay by looking for power at the feed wire from the relay at the NSS connector while the key is in the crank position..... that would be terminal #3 , V/Gn , at the NSS.. a 12v. test lamp here would verify that... .. Your Indy prob already knows that... Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 11-21-2004 at 09:21 PM.
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