I'm getting two codes with an ASR light on my 92 400E

38 pin connector X11/4
pin 6 code 30
pin 7 code 14

these codes are clearable but will repeat after starting.

History,

Started throwing codes and limp mode a week ago and wouldnt self clear when restarting. Would have ASR light immediately on start up.
Throttle plate was visibly dirty so I removed air mass sensor and cleaned throttle body and plate with cleaner. Restarted car no codes but when I stepped on the accelerator engine reved but did not slow down when lifted off accelerator (then threw ASR light). Have recleard codes and the 30 and 14 are the only ones that show up. Now they only show up after reving engine and releasing the gas pedal - the engine speed doesnt return to idle as it should.

I did find that the accelerator linkage wasnt readily returiing to its original position. I disconnected linkage from the throttle body (electronic throtle actuator) and the actuator has no problem returning on its own.

So this afternoon I'll remove the linkage and lube up the pivots. I figure I can isolate out the Belden cable by disconnecting it and seeing if the resistance is still their, same with the throttle cable.

Anyone ever have this?

I'm just trying to fully diagnose this since I originally thought it was the Electronic Throttle Actuator (at about $1000). But now I'm hopeful that its a cable or pivot.

Didnt see anything related to the linkage on any of the other ASR M119 problems I searched in the archives.

Thanks
Paul

Try to reposition the AMS and tighten the clamp that holds it. I cleaned the throttle plate once and was not able to put the AMS to the exact position I took it off. It shot codes and the ASR light came on. After repositioning and tightening, the codes cleared and the idling stabalized @ 500(+/-10) with transmission engaged and a/c on . Try this and hope it helps

__________________
a2


1978 280 CE silver
1986 560 SL black
1987 300 SDL cream
1994 SL 500 brilliant green
1997 E 300d dessert silver
2005 FORD F250 Superduty Crew cab 4x4

____ADMU____

Hello,
A fellow member, Jim, has a great website where he talks about the exact same problem you are having and it turned out to be the ETA. Check his site at http://pages.prodigy.net/jforgione/MB_S500.html

Good luck!
Brian

__________________
Brian W. Heitman

www.MBCA.org/northtexas

Join MBCA!!!

. . . to mine when my ETA died! Check Menu#24 for the DTCs and story on how it happened.

Pin 6 => ABS w/ ASR; CAN bus to EA/CC/ISC faulty
Pin 7 => EA/CC/ISC; Closed Throttle (position) Switch [CTS] faulty

SInce you have not experienced a "Limp-Home" mode, it may just be the CTS itself or the connection or --- the dreaded wiring harness ---

If you have never changed it, it's a good probability.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Thanks for all the input. I have read Jim F's site extensivly. Its a great resource Jim thanks for keeping it up.

Anyway a few more details
anytime it "throws codes" and the ASR light goes on it does enter the "dreaded limp home mode" I figured that was assumed so I didnt mention limp home mode (also the wiring harness is new I changed it a few months ago).

Figured out the stiffness in the throttle linkage. It was oneof the pivots. Naturally the the bottom one that holdes the rod that connects directly to the ETA that you almost cant see! By carefully getting some lube down there and working the linkage it now returns normally (snaps back).

Started it up again - no ASR light on start up and give it a tiny bit of throttle and lift and it settles back down correctly. Same thing agaiin but rev to ~2000rpm, lift and when it settles back down - ASR light and limp home mode. Codes now are
Pin 6 code 30
Pin 7 code 3 (this is EA/CC/ISC actuator according to Jims site)

One other think I noticed is there is a constant high pitched noise coming from the ETA (dead center in the engine). Another likly pointer to the ETA.

Looks like I'll be ordering parts tomorrow unless someone points to someting else. Price I got was about $1000 Potomic German does have a used one at about $300 but given the problems with these things I dont think its worth risking a used part.

Thanks everyone, and I'll post more details as I get them.
Paul

the EA showing "3" directly points to the ETA (as I called it; normally called TA).

The wiring harness could give you the same problems but you have changed it so it surely looks like it's the ETA.

A used ETA that comes from a LOW MILEAGE car would be ok, I would think but how do you know what that mileage was??? 80K miles would not be considered low for an ETA in MHO. So you are probably much safer to buy a new one. That's what I did.

If you do it yourself, please watch out for the "spring"!!! It's such a trivial part of the job but if it "slips out", it's a bugger to get back in. At least for me it was!

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Out of curiosity, what is the difference between the "EA" and the "ETA or TA".

I've always called the "electronic throttle body" the throttle actuator, or "TA".

It looks like ETA and TA are the same part.

What is "EA"?

__________________
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

confusing point! That's why I call it the "ETA" short for "Electronic Throttle Actuator". Mercedes calls it the "TA" but that seems to get confused with the "EA", short for the "Electronic Accelerator" module.

So by calling it the ETA, it can't be confused? Or maybe it can?

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

JimF thanks for the pointer to Beckmann Tech (900 742-1021) on your web site.

I just called and 92 400E EA's are one of the parts they rebuild. My part number is 000 141 73 25. Comes with a 1 year warranty. It wont ship till at least Monday but the price is right ($511 which beats ~$1000-1200).

Paul

. . but I'm confused? Are getting an ETA or EA? You said "EA".

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Right, so what is an EA, and where is it in the car?

I know that the "ETA" is mounted underneath the intake manifold in an M104 engined car.

__________________
Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

. . . my MENU#9 to see where it's located; in F23 module box and it's N4/1.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Sorry I added to the confusion - I should have said ETA or TA but I had a brain fart and thought Jim said Mercedes refered to the part as an EA (I didnt double check the thread history when I was composing my reply).

I'm replacing the electronic throttle actuator (under the air mass sensor dead center on the engine).

Beckmann has this part

Rplacement procedure from the CD's "Removing and installing electronic accelerator actuator with throttle valve body 15.8.94"

Procedure calles out fitting the gasket to the actuator with "Hylomar sealant" also tells you to use new "microencapsulated bolts". Anyone bother with this? Is there a permatex type equivalent or just skip the sealant?

Sorry for the confusion
Paul

. . I did replace the EA (in Menu#24) because I was convinced it was that module. But it wasn't, so that's why I asked.

I did use some sealant but don't remember what it was. You need to keep the gasket from moving around since when you seat the ETA, it's kinda of a blind operation.

I re-used the same bolts.

__________________
Regards . . . . JimF
-------------------
'94 S500 Cpe

Visit my Mercedes Web Page

Just to close out the thread. The remanufactured throttle body aka ETA also aka TA cured the problem. New part in and no limp home mode etc. The part was significantly more than they quoted the first time but still about 400 less than dealer price (maybe they quoted me shop price next time I order from them I'll have a shop order it).

Pointers for someone in the future;
replace the rubber mounting sleve under the air mass flow. If its been ther for 10+ years its hard as a rock and you'll have to break it to get it off anyway. On the same vein replace the 3 piece vent tube that goes from the valve cover to the ETA. It will also be hard as a rock and you wont be able to seperate the joints. Tie a loop in a string and use that to hold the throttle return spring in place after unhooking it. I also replaced the vacuum line that runs from the back of the intake manifold past the ETA out the front and runs around to ignition components (I believe) it was incredibly brittle and shattered. Given that there are a bunch of other vacuum lines that I think I will replace as preventative maint.

Thanks for all the help
Paul