The original exhaust on my '86 300E has come up to the end of its usable lifespan and it now has holes in both the resonator and the muffler. I'm planning on getting the Eberspaecher replacement muffler and resonator to replace everything rear of the catalytic converters.

I would like to do this myself but I have no welding equipment. The pictures that I've seen of the system don't show any joints that use bolts to connect the two pieces. Are there slip-on joints on the Eberspaechers or will I have to take it to a shop to have them weld the resonator and muffler together?

Been there, twice. Yes there are slipjoints, but recommend just paying a non-chain muffler shop to do the deed. Cheap compared to the aggravation of doing it yourself. Also be very careful to use the for - aft positioning spelled out in the MB repair manual.

Steve White

Don't forget new rubber donut hangers.

Steve White

Thank you for the information. I don't have the repair manual, but I am a die-hard for doing things myself. Another way of saying that I'm boneheadedly stubborn , but I do figure things out eventually.

You wouldn't happen to have the numbers for the torque on the bolts connecting it to the catalytic converter and any other tips to help this go more smoothly?

Oh, one more thing- how many rubber hangers would I need? I'm planning to order a bracket for the front muffler, nuts and bolts, center muffler to rear muffler clamp, front pipe to center muffler seal ring and the rubber hangers.

I assume that they are not included with the muffler and resonator as sold by www.***************

Getting back to your original question , if you should clamp or weld.
Many years have tought me that clamps are nothing more than " heatsinks " that tend to cool off the exhaust in a concentrated area ( where the clamps attach), and as a result, pipes tend to rott away at these very same points.
Welding is the only way to go in my opinion.

__________________
2007 C 230 Sport.

I have always clamped because if I need to replace a part down the road, I can replace it.

However, Manny makes a good point. Every clamp I have had to remove has been rusted completely (remember you won't be replacing parts for MANY years!) and has been impossible to remove. It would have been easier most times to just cut through the pipe and weld on the new part.

I understand wanting to do it yourself, but you won't believe how tough this job becomes while lying on your back under the car. It's a snap when the car is on a hoist!

I am just as stubborn as you, but I think I'd find a good shop and let them hang it. Not worth the trouble for me!

Neal

__________________
'83 300SD 335,000km (207k) mi SOLD
'87 560SL 163,000km (101k mi) SOLD
'86 300SDL 356,000km (220k mi) SOLD
'92 500SEL 250,000km (155k mi) SOLD
'90 300SL 140,000km (87k mi) SOLD
'01 S430 260,000km (161k mi) SOLD
'03 SL500 167,000km (104k mi) SOLD
'07 S550 4MATIC 235,000km (146k mi) SOLD
'07 GL320 CDI 4MATIC 348,000km (215k mi)
'13 GL350 BlueTec 4MATIC 170,000km (105k mi)
'14 SL550 72,000km (43k mi)

Clamp them... that's how they're designed to be installed. I would, however use a stainless steel band clamp similar to this one pictured (only you don't need for it to be a reducer). They tend not to crimp the pipe so it actually CAN be disassembled in the future.
(I found the image here: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=191816&prmenbr=361 )

Jeff Pierce

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__________________
Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

Good tips guys. Thank you. Right now, my main concern is hoping that I can loosen the bolts that connect the exhaust to the cat. I've got a good breaker bar though, and a friend with an air wrench should I need it.

• Wire brush threads while cold
• spray on a penetrating oil designed to penetrate rust.
• Wire brush again 3-4 hours after penetrant applied
• re-spray with penetrant at least the night before disassembly
• If extremely rusted and wrench won't work to loosen, sometimes overtightening until it breaks will work

Tim

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=106818
something similar.

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-Marty

1986 300E 220,000 miles+ transmission impossible
(Now waiting under a bridge in order to become one)

Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831799&postcount=13
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=831807&postcount=14

Original exhaust system had both mufflers joined by a pipe as a single assembly. Replacements are sold as separate mufflers which are joined by a slip joint which uses a clamp (available from the dealership). When replacing centre muffler, also be sure to obtain the graphite seal and sintered seal ring that seals pipes at the joints behind the catalytic converter. New nuts and bolts for these joints are also a good idea.

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107.023: 350SLC, 3-speed auto, icon gold, parchment MBtex (sold 2012 after 29 years ownership).
107.026: 500SLC, 4-speed auto, thistle green, green velour.
124.090: 300TE, 4-speed auto, arctic white, cream-beige MBtex.
201.028: 190E 2.3 Sportline, 5-speed manual, arctic white, blue leather.
201.028: 190E 2.3, 4-speed auto, blue-black, grey MBtex.
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