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#1
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Engine Mounts
Hello everyone!
How can I tell if I need new engine mounts? I have a 1989 W124 300E @ 186,700 miles Is there a test I can perform to confirm that they are good or bad? I have heard that the passenger side ones are known to give up often since it is so close to the exhaust manifold and the heat burns it up. I have already asked for a price estimate at my local shop. They want $117 for labor, and I will provide the $73 engine mount. SO that totals to $190. I am only 17 and don't have the power or the tools to do this on my own, but I feel that the car has lost it's smoothness! |
#2
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Spec for this engine is 13mm of clearance between the bottom of the metal shield and the front crossmember. If the mounts have never been changed, you are likely loooong past the interval for them. If they were changed once, you are probably close (but not quite there).
The passenger side mount is not too bad with just hand tools. Spray some liquid wrench on the bolts a day or two before you want to change it out, use a breaker bar on bottom one (make sure the allen socket is seated properly, you REALLY don't want it to strip). Use a box end wrench on the top, and pry against the handle with a long crowbar (be careful what you pry against, you will break anything that is non-structural). You can lift the engine with a floor jack and some 2x4s to spread the weight along the long edge of the pan. The driver's side is the hard one, simply because there is no clearance for anything to fit and still get good leverage. The only way I've seen this work using hand tools is with a cut-down box end wrench and the crowbar. |
#3
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Oh, and an hour's worth of labor per side is not unreasonable for this job.
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#4
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EEK! Raising the engine?!?!?!??!
That is waaaaaaaayyyy beyond the skill of my feeble mind.... But, I will try to measure it out to see if I am getting the right clearance... 13mm, hope its close! Thanks you! |
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