I had a discussion with a mechanic who said I should just change (and shim) all the lifters. I have chatttering and tapping. He said a lot of the lifters are off. I really wanted to shim the lifters and replace only the bad ones. I have read in the manual to push down on the lifter with a hammer handle and if they drop too fast compared to the others then they need to be replaced. I have tried this and can't tell if they are bad or not.

If anyone can shead light on this, please let us know.

Also, is there a risk to using aftermarket lifters from INI (I think).

Thanks, all.

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Steve
1985 Mercedes 500SL Euro (Gray market)
1995 BMW 520i Euro (Gray market)
1992 BMW 525it Wagon
1994 Honda Del Sol Si

I am in a similar situation with my 89 560SEL.

On startup there is noticable lifter noise for 30 seconds or so. Tech says to leave it as it's a $700 job.

It seems that the hassle with doing the lifters is the shimming process, I have heard of some people just replacing the bad lifters without shimming.

Hope someone here with experience posts.

Matt.

The OEM Lifters cost $712, just for the parts. Was your mechanic quoting parts and labor?

The hydraulic lifters have a certain amount of travel. Shimming is to assure they are within the travel limit. All lifters need a shim but it has to be the right thickness. I have the go/no-go gauge required for this.

I have adjusted a few screw and locknut systems but replacing hydraulic lifters will be a first.

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Steve
1985 Mercedes 500SL Euro (Gray market)
1995 BMW 520i Euro (Gray market)
1992 BMW 525it Wagon
1994 Honda Del Sol Si

A couple of observations:

- The hammer handle test didn't tell me anything either

- Try the Herr Fuchs Finger Test. With the lobe up, put your finger between the ball stud edge and the bottom of the rocker. Rotate the lobe down and feel again. If you notice a differerence, replace the ball stud.

- If you only have one or two, then get a piece of hose or a mechanic's stethascope. Listen through it to try to isolate the tickers. You can probably get it down to two at a time. Pull the rockers off and check them, the shims, and the lobes for wear. Then try a shim one size thicker one the suspects and see if that stops the noise.

- While you're in there, replace the plastic bits in the oil tube and make sure the little holes are clear.

If you have more than a couple noisy ones, replace the whole side.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

the price is about 16 to 18 $$ each. 16 pcs at 20 is only 320. the oil tube kits are like < 10 $ so 20$. and 2 new valve cover gaskets are about 15. so for about 355$ you won't need to worry for another 100k miles. did this last year on my 88 and i'm doing that now on my 87. there is a good chance you'll only need to adjust the shim on a few.

just my 2 cents

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Thanks Much!
Craig

1972 350sl Red/Blk 117k
1988 420sel charcoal/Blk 140k
1987 420sel gold/tan 128k
See My Cars at:http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aytj/index.html

Pound it to fit then Paint it to match!

There is only First Place and Varying degrees of last!

Old age and deceit will overcome Youth and Enthusiasm every time!

Putting the square peg in the round hole is not hard... IF you do it fast enough!

Old enough to know better but stupid enough to do it anyway!

I am interested to see where you can get the lifters for $18-20, Fastlane here lists them at $30.

What is your source?

Matt.

On the shims, how do you know what size to buy?, even if you measure them?I bought a gauge with big plans, until I realized that a "selection" of shims would cost hundreds of dollars for my 560!

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86 560SL
With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm

I think the shims are about $5 apiece OEM and like $6.50 from Mercedes. Most of the shims can be re-used. I recommend measuring what is in there. Then round out your collection with +1, +2, -1, and -2, where 0 is what you have the most of. Go through the shimming procedure and note what you need using the collection. Then go buy what you're short.

I am not making this up.

There are a lot of posts on this worth reading. There are some real tricks to getting a good measurement with the gauge.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

What engine is it? If it is a 420 engine:

Best to open the valve cover, and check the cam too. If the cam is not scratched, do the finger test, mentioned earlier. Try to identify the offending valve, or cyclinder using a stethescope, while the engine is running. Replace the offending valve HLC, only if defective, and get the right shim as ctaylor738 mentioned. Even without the finger test, just put in the next size up, from the current size. To choose or order the right shims, I used a micrometer with a pointed tip. A flat surface one will give you a false reading since the rocker usually gouges the shim. Replacing the shim could work, and it is a cheap solution.

When changing the HLC, be sure to cleanout the small whole on the top edge of the head and get all of the gunk out of the bottom. I used wd40 with one of those slender plastic tubes on the nozzle to clean out the hole. Change the engine oil and filter, use synthetic like Mobile1.

I'm not a professional mechanic, but the above process worked for me on a 89 420 SEL.

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1989 420 SEL