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  #16  
Old 04-17-2005, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r_p_ryan
On the rubber lip-seal, what do you think of using hylomar instead of oil? I know it might be overkill, but would it be deleterious?

Robert
Actually, saliva works quite well.

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  #17  
Old 04-17-2005, 07:34 PM
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I wouldn't use sealant. I'd rather use something to help the front cover slide in to place, especially the last fractions of an inch which ultimately the bolts tend to when tightening them. If not oil, then maybe a little dish soap. Dunno about saliva, has saline content, probably be OK but may evaporate too quickly and not as slick as oil.

Gilly
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  #18  
Old 05-02-2005, 02:19 PM
Robert Ryan
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
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And here is the write-up with pics on the job:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103TimingCoverReseal

-Robert
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  #19  
Old 05-02-2005, 05:27 PM
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Awesome writeup, thanks. Question: What is the purpose of the large plastic disk behind the rotor/bracket? I remember seeing that mine has a chip on the edge & I wondered if that created any issues> Thanks.
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  #20  
Old 05-03-2005, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inetd
I use some stuff I got a while back from Douglas called "MEK", something like Methyl Ethyl Keytone or something. I know nothing of it's origins, but is commonly used around a/c. It's not acid, but petroleum in nature I believe. Can anyone help me with the definition of this stuff?

I used to think Acetone was horrible, but MEK would actually burn through your skin in about 5 secs. You’re supposed to use a face shield, gloves and all that. It will wash about anything from metal surfaces, leaves no residue, and will render your metal surfaces remarkably clean.

If you’ve got the temperament, I’d suggest it. Otherwise you may want to stick with Acetone.
Actually, MEK (you spelled it right ) and acetone are very similar. Acetone is methyl methyl ketone, one less carbon atom in the molecule. They're both aromatic hydrocarbons, very good solvents. While neither will kill you right away, both are worth keeping off your skin. Both dissolve fats & oils and can cause live damage over time.

Interesting thread.
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  #21  
Old 05-07-2005, 05:21 PM
Robert Ryan
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
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I just followed the DIY http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103TimingCoverReseal
on another 300e and did the repair in one hour and fifteen minutes. I started the timer after I set out all the correct tools set out and stopped when I started to motor to check for leaks.

Robert

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