Please help, I live in Perth, Western Australia and have been to every known mercedes mechanic with this problem. I've spent heaps of $ without the problem being solved.

Im driving along and the car will just stall, it kind of loses power first, as though its change down in gears. All lights come on and of course you have to put it in park and restart. I restarts fine and off I go. Sometimes if I am quick, I can hit the brake and then back on the accelerator and it will recover. I've had the high voltage meter replaced, the fuel pump and the fuel relay. None of this has helped. Sometimes it wont do this for days and then other times I cant drive down the road without it happening all the time. Its pretty scary because I have small kids in the car and it gives absolutely no warning if it just dies.

Any ideas or help or points in the right direction would be appreciated.

My 260E W124 1988 does exactly the same thing.
Changed also a lot of parts.
Made also a lot of measurements (fuel pressure ...)
The problem has not yet been solved.
I would be interested to know how to cure it

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Keep us posted especially if your problem is solved
Present cars:
My car: E-class 420CDI, 2008, W211, V8, 180 000km

Wife's one: C-class 220CDI Sport Coupé, Euro, 2002, W203. 345 000km

Son's one: GLK class, 220CDI, 2009, W204

Sold: E-class 260E, 1988, W124, Wonderfull car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch, brake system and 5 speed manual gear box all original).

Sold: E-class, 320CDI, W210, 2000, 225 000km

I had a problem like this with a Ford my dad bought at auction. The first thing to do is determine if it is fuel or electrical. Most the time it is electrical, you can do this by rigging a light up to the coil, when it has power the light illuminates. Drive your car, if the light goes, your car dies, you know it is electrical, and I would just take a wild guess here, did you check the ignition switch? If everything else seems fine check the switch! Just think of how many times that switch has turned off and on that engine! Good luck!
Brian

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Brian W. Heitman

www.MBCA.org/northtexas

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Thanks bwheitman

I did used this kind of monitoring for 12Vsignal after Fuel pump relay (it was OK).

Could you tell on which socket of the coil the lamp has to be connected?

How to check the ignition switch while driving?

__________________
Keep us posted especially if your problem is solved
Present cars:
My car: E-class 420CDI, 2008, W211, V8, 180 000km

Wife's one: C-class 220CDI Sport Coupé, Euro, 2002, W203. 345 000km

Son's one: GLK class, 220CDI, 2009, W204

Sold: E-class 260E, 1988, W124, Wonderfull car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch, brake system and 5 speed manual gear box all original).

Sold: E-class, 320CDI, W210, 2000, 225 000km

The coil will have a neg and pos terminal on it, just hook the wires for the bulb to that and bring it into the cabin of the car, doesn't have to be fancy since it is a diagnostic/temporary deal. Drive your car and see what happens, a short in the ignition could cause the engine to shut down and the light to go off. You might want to check your fuses too, you probably have those troublesome ones that you have to spin once in awhile to keep a good contact. Pull each of the fuses and clean the contacts on the fuse and the holder. Also check your grounds, you will see clumps of brown wire attached to the chassis with a bolt, loosen the bolt and re-tighten to refresh the ground. I am not totally familiar with that model, but when I get home from work I will look at the Tech CD to determine the best possible way to test the switch. Take care and good luck!
B

__________________
Brian W. Heitman

www.MBCA.org/northtexas

Join MBCA!!!