I have a '85 190E 2.3. I installed brand new brake pads and rotors. I tried bleeding the brakes and I cant get a constant flow of brake fluid to come through the rear calipers. I get a constant flow to come out for the front. Ive tried several different ways to bleed the brakes. But I mostly tried the one in the Haynes manual. Im not sure when the last time the brake fluid was changed. I say about 3-4 years ago. Could the lines be clogged up since the fluid hasnt been changed in so long? Or do I just have that much air in the lines? Could it be possible that the calipers are seized?

Also, what do you guys think about using the Motive Power Bleeder that Performance Products sells? Does it really work?

Thanks.

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1985 Mercedes 190E 2.3(Sold)

You have two chambers in the brake reservoir container. The rear one feeds the front brakes. There is a little dam between the two chambers. When you pour fluid into the reservoir, you have to fill it full enough to allow the fluid to overflow the dam and fill the second chamber. Sometimes it looks full and until you hold a light up to it, you can't really tell for sure. If you don't have both chambers full, then you won't get a good bleed and will always be sucking air.

Another problem could be old/bad rubber brake hoses that have collapsed inside. If they are over ten years old, think aobut changing them. There is a date of manufacture on them.

A pressure bleeder is the best way to do your brakes I think.

Len

Thanks for the reply.

I made sure that the brake fluid was at the "MAX" mark while bleeding the brakes. Im not sure if that was good enough or not.

The brakes hoses shouldnt be a problem because I just replaced them with stainless steel ones.

Any other suggestions from anybody?

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1985 Mercedes 190E 2.3(Sold)

But were both chambers at the MAX mark? Shine a shop light at it from the side to be sure.

Len

You do not specify what method you are using to bleed the brakes. Assuming that you are using the two man method, do it with the engine running. This will allow the brake booster to come into play. Many cars with power brakes are near impossible to two man bleed without the engine running.

Good luck,

It's possible you have for lack of a better word, gunk, in the rear bleeder nipples. Try to clean them out with toothpick, wire whatever and see if that helps.

The Motive Power Bleeder is an excellent tool. I highly recommend it.

Jeff Pierce

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Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F

I use a Motive Bleeder all the time for FLUSHING brakes. I have never tried bleeding air out of a system with it. I expect it will work well, but in your case, you only need to fill the reservoir, start the engine and bleed the brakes with a helper at the pedal.

Good luck,

Yes. I am using the 2 man bleeder method. From the Haynes manual it doesnt state to start the engine to bleed the brakes. I was told that you dont have to. But I have tried it anyways, and it didnt work.

Another thing to note: When holding the pedal in and cracking open the bleeder valve on the rear calipers, the pedal doesnt sink to the floor. But for the front it does. Why is that?

I guess ill keep trying.....

__________________
1985 Mercedes 190E 2.3(Sold)

Either you are not opening the bleeder screw far enough or this is the first time the brakes have ever been flushed. I have never seen enough gunk that pressing the pedal with booster assist will not push out. Maybe you have a collapsed brake hose.

Are you getting anything at ALL when you back off the bleeder screw?

Good luck,

<
>>

The fronts have no air , so the pedal can't go to the floor.. it can only go as far as it takes to fully engage the front brakes . If you open a front bleeder , only then it will go to floor.
If the situation was reversed [ air in front lines and none in rear], same thing would happen.
There are two brake systems , but they are hooked in Tandem at the plunger in the Master.
As others have mentioned , we would like to know for sure that you have the rear res full. It is very common to overlook this as many do not realise there are two res. One for the front , one for the back..
Read Sokoloff again .

Thanks for the help.

I really dont know if the brake fluid was ever flushed before. The previous owner did keep regular maintenance, but then the car sat for awhile. It sat for awhile even when I bought it because I had to fix some minor problems with it. Ill try bleeding again with the help I got. Probably inspect the brake lines just incase.

Ill keep you guys updated.

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1985 Mercedes 190E 2.3(Sold)

Another quick note about bleeding with the 2-person method: Don't ever let the pedal go all the way to the floor. It causes the master cylinder piston to go beyond its normal travel range. When it does, it's much more likely to encounter dirt, dust, and even rust. Obviously these impurities wreak havok with the seals.
Ask any professional tech... this is the reason that it's very common for vehicles which have had recent brake work to soon after require a new master cylinder.

Jeff Pierce

__________________
Jeff Pierce

Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
'81 Honda CB 750F Super Sport
'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F