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I have had the insulator around where the clock hooks up disintegrate, so you have to be a lot more careful about how you install the single lead. Either it's hitting the metal body around the tach, or something is hitting it when you install the cluster. Other than being grounded, there is no electrical relationship between the clock and the rest of the cluster. I put shrink tubing (2x) around my connector once I removed the disintegrated insulation. I have a clock mech I've repaired right in front of me, and I'd find it hard to beleive that the plastic insulation on the clock itself (solid chunk of clear plastic) disintegrated. There is also a little piece of anti-vibration/insulation rubber behind the clock that MAY have disintegrated, but I've never seen this happen.
If you have a voltohmmeter, measure the 12V tab of the clock to ground. It should be practically nothing. If it's like, a few ohms, maybe the clock is bad. It's theoretically possible that the capacitors have shorted (really, really badly). The caps are known to fail on the clock, that's why I replace 'em.
If you are fairly good at working on your car (sounds like it), replacing the clock mech once the cluster is out is not that bad. The scariest part is taking the tach needle off. You would need to make a single solder connection to the ground. PM me if you need a clock mech.
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11-26-2005, 06:46 PM
380sl clock keeps blowing fuses.
Linear Mode
