How Do I Test the Neutral Safety Switch? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ejsharp · #1 11-28-2005, 08:11 PM

I'll pull the starter tomorrow and have a look at it. Sometimes they are fixable.

If not I'll do the Bosch rebuilt and return the core. Too bad Fast Lane does not take cores because their price is double that of local parts stores. Would be impractical to ship core because of weight I suppose.
Does anyone know if you can get to that second starter bolt using an extended extension rod and from behind the transmission? The bolt is inexcessable at the starter itself.

bhatt · #2 11-29-2005, 09:04 AM

On the 560SL my wife used to have, I did exactly that -- used a long extension bar.

I recall it was either 18" or 24" long. I bought a set of three from Harbor Freight that had one which was perfect. You can't go wrong with a 18" or 24" extension and a couple of universal joints. I recall someone telling me you CANNOT get those bolts out without that extension.

Once I had the extensions and universal joints, the job was really ease. Be REALLY careful to not drop the starter on any body parts.. it's heavy! I'd make sure to be clear of it, just in case you end up dropping it when the last bolt is pulled out. Might want to have something for it to land on (plywood, foam, etc.) rather than having it hit asphalt or concrete if you're returning the core.

Neal

ejsharp · #3 11-29-2005, 10:48 AM

Neal,
I looked at the situation under the car and it appears as though the top bolt cannot be reached from there. I think the starter is mounted too high on the 190 2.3 engine.

Maybe the air breather, oil filter and whatever else in covering the starter has to be removed to get to the top bolt.

If anybody knows the answer to the question: Do you access the top bolt from under the hood?... please reply. If so I can probably figure out what parts must be removed in order to get to it.

Any replies will be most appriciated because it is a must that I get this car back on the road.

bhatt · #4 11-29-2005, 12:01 PM

Earl,

Looked your car up quickly in WIS and it says the following pre-work needs to be done before removing the starter:

-Air cleaner removed (09-0400) with GF starter motor, 601, 602.911 with Auto Trans and/or A/C up to model year 1990
-Engine compartment lining removed (61-0105), engines 102, 103
-Noise capsule removed (94-0050), engines 601, 602
-Control arm (left) on pitman arm removed (46-0550), engines 102(with GF starter motor), 103, 602.911, 602.961

So it appears the Air Cleaner is only removed on diesel models. However, looks like you need to remove the engine compartment lining, and the control arm/pitman arm.

The document numbers in brackets are from WIS. Let me know if you need any of them and I can scan & email (really tough.. tried it once) or FAX them (this is the easiest way.. I can print & fax much faster than scanning it!)

The instructions to remove the starter are quite standard with a few exceptions. The document says to remove:
-Intake pipe support
-Return spring between throttle & intake pipe support
-Adjusting element (don't know what this is..)
-from there, it's standard.. remove electrical connections & bolts, remove & reinstall starter.

I have a document with pictures called "Removal & Installation of Starter Motor Model 201" which contains all of these instructions & diagrams. Let me know if you need it.

Sounds like a bunch of simple removal work (not sure about that Pitman arm though!) and then the starter comes out. You may be right about removing stuff from above (air cleaner, etc.) on your model!

Disclaimer -- this is the MB way to do it (which is usually right). Someone else may have already done this work and know a shortcut around it. Does anyone else know a workaround for that Pitman arm thing? Is that really necessary?

Neal

ejsharp · #5 11-29-2005, 06:06 PM

Neal,
Been working on it all day and I just got it out around 5:00 this evening.

Actually you have to work from the top and bottom on the 93 model, 2.3 190E.

The mounting bracket is scarry because it looks like it would be stuck in there but its not. It moves once unbolted. Getting to the bottom bolt of the bracket is a challenge. I used 3/8 extension and went in from the side of the intake manifold near fender. Top bolts of bracket sit just under the air breather cover and are 6mm hex.

The pitman arm does not have to be removed. You get it out of the way by turning the steering wheel.. to the right, I believe.

Top starter bolt is removed from under the hood and bottom starter bolt from under the car.

I removed starter wires after unbolting starter and by removing the bolt to the fastener that adjust the length of the cable going to the starter. Loosening the cable lets you turn and drop the starter somewhat so that you can get to the nut and phillips head screw that fasten the wires to the solinoid and starter.

The starter then slides out through the bottom past the pitman arm.

I tested the unit one I got it out and so far it works fine. I suspect that the contact point at the solinoid and wire leading to it is coroded and that is why starter failed to activate.

I put starter in freezer to see if the solinoid will stick during next test.

Hope wife does not take it out and cook it for dinner.

Earl

P.S. I did do the neutral safety switch test prior to removal of starter and the switch passed. I ran voltage directly to solinoid from firewall and got no activity from solinoid. I then tapped on the starter and it activated.

So it could be the contact point between wire and solinoid that is corroded... or it could be a stuck solinoid piston. Maybe the freezer test will tell me something.

Does anyone have any experience as to corrosion causing a failure as described above.

Neal, thanks again for going the extra mile.