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  #1  
Old 11-30-2005, 03:46 PM
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Engine power on a 380SE ? Good? Also "coolant" level question

I have decided to buy a 85' 380SE and wondering about the performance of this car. I am having the car delivered, so I will not be able to drive it before I buy. I know it is the smaller V8, but since it is the "SE" it is the shorter wheelbase and lighter than the 500SEL (which is a 5.0L). Is this offset enough for this car to have adequate power?

Also, about the coolant levels on these Mercedes. I have been looking at several and many do not appear to have the coolant tank full. Actually, the car I am looking at is a little less than 1/2 level. Should these things always be full, or do they fluctuate? Also, when I get the car, I want to fill it up if it needs to be. I have heard that the "common" green anti-freeze is not acceptable on a Mercedes. What exactly is recommended?

Thanks in advance!

Update- I did another search and seems as if the dealer antifreeze is the way to go. Now, if I need to get the tank full? Any special procedures other than pouring it in? I ask because I had a Lumina that had a special procedure you had to do.


Last edited by 86560SEL; 11-30-2005 at 03:52 PM.
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  #2  
Old 11-30-2005, 04:05 PM
MB, love..hate..love..
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL
I have decided to buy a 85' 380SE and wondering about the performance of this car. I am having the car delivered, so I will not be able to drive it before I buy. I know it is the smaller V8, but since it is the "SE" it is the shorter wheelbase and lighter than the 500SEL (which is a 5.0L). Is this offset enough for this car to have adequate power? !
- Mine has enough power on the highway, but don't expect rocket-like acceleration. It's more like a refined escalation to cruising speed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL
Also, about the coolant levels on these Mercedes. I have been looking at several and many do not appear to have the coolant tank full. Actually, the car I am looking at is a little less than 1/2 level. Should these things always be full, or do they fluctuate?
Look closely at the plastic tank and you'll see a full line on the side. The level depends on the owner's diligence on maintaining it. If there's a leak, you'll find out soon enough, but check around obvious places like the hoses and the pump for signs of leakage.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL
Also, when I get the car, I want to fill it up if it needs to be. I have heard that the "common" green anti-freeze is not acceptable on a Mercedes. What exactly is recommended?
Lots of opinions on this, revealed through an archive search on 'coolant'. The consensus seems to be that green is not the best choice, either Mercedes coolant or Zerex G5 is preferred.

BTW, these are rather basic questions for someone with your post count. No offence, but I have a feeling that we will hear from you again, and I for one am always here for a fellow 380SE owner, the '85 being of course the preferred year. I do have the engine, chassis, and heating A/C manuals for this car. Good luck...

Added: No special procedure to top it up with whatever is in it now, but you'll need to flush to change it. Again, subject is well covered by threads here.
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Last edited by donbryce; 11-30-2005 at 06:53 PM.
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  #3  
Old 11-30-2005, 05:37 PM
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Enought power?

I drove an 85 380 SE for 10 years. It has a LOT of power. Keep the oil changed, replace timing chain as soon as you start hearing it chatter on start-up, and fix things when they break. My performance really peaked after a valve job. Why did you have to start this thread -- now I miss my 380!
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  #4  
Old 11-30-2005, 08:34 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. Its great to know others here own or have owned this year and model of Mercedes. I have contacted the owner and have decided to buy this car. We just have to work out the details. I am going to make a new post about this, because I know a few here wondered if I was ever going to find the "right" Mercedes. I have stalled on buying one for about 3 years now.

Yeah Don, I am sure I will have a LOT of questions. I will probably drive you crazy considering you have a 85' 380SE. . Yeah, I have a lot of posts, but it was mainly me asking questions about cars I was considering in the past. My only other Mercedes was a 74' 240D that my uncle had bought new, but it had a lot of problems and I never got to drive it. I sold it for $75. about 6 years ago. As far as these Mercedes go, I know nothing about them, except what I have read here, so I guess this forum will come in very handy when it comes to questions I have. I was really unsure about the coolant, because until Mercedes, I had never heard of a car requiring "special" coolant. Thanks for clearing that up.

Bribenz and DerryB: Yeah, that is my main concern. The car has 263K and the owner has NO idea when or if the chain/tensioner/rails were changed. He has owned it for 5 years he said. I am guessing that at these miles, it has either been changed or it would have broke by now, or knowing my luck, about to break. I have already contacted a local Mercedes independent shop and got a quote of $500 (parts and labor) to change the chain and tensioner. I did not think about checking on the rails too. I guess that will add even more. I am sure I will get it changed soon before I do a lot of driving. If it is not making that noise on start-up, could it also be that the tensioner and rails are OK, or only does the worn chain make the noise?

As far as rust goes, thankfully, this is a 100% rust free southeastern car. The car is silver with dark blue interior. Again, I have only seen photos and I am buying it sight-unseen, but for only $1000. I am going to take a chance on it. The only problems mentioned are two of the windows work sporadically.

Thanks again!
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  #5  
Old 11-30-2005, 09:06 PM
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the coolant tank

will have two lines. one as a minimum when cold, the other max when hot.

i have never driven a 380se but i have driven a 380sl which is about the same weight. it was not a neck snapper but a torque motor. i think it will be most adequate.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #6  
Old 11-30-2005, 09:19 PM
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Thanks Tom. Do you know if these are fuel injected? I am thinking yes.

He did mention that the car idled a little rough if it was cold outside, until it warmed up. After that, it runs very smoothly. Perhaps just a tune-up is in order?
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2005, 11:12 PM
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oh yeah

that would be injected.

the rough warm up might not be much of a problem. my 500 (basically the same as a 380), does that a lot. my indie tested this and that and we replaced a few minor parts and it never has quit. but it never has gotten worse either. a friend who used to work at the benz dealer back when these were new said "always crack the throttle a little when starting them". since i do that it is a lot better.

as i remember this style of injection has been a little shaggy on warm start ups in certain conditions since they were new.

tom w
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2005, 11:49 PM
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Thanks Tom. Yeah, the guy I am buying this 85' from said it has been like that for the past 5 years he has owned it.

I will probably go ahead and still put in new plugs, etc. Definitely a timing chain/tensioner. 263K miles - if it has not been changed, it is probably only a matter of time until "SNAP"! He said it was 1-owner (same owner from 1985-2001) before he bought it 5 years ago, so HOPEFULLY they changed it at some point. I just wish I knew 100% to save me $500, but it would be better than destroying the engine down the road.

Thanks again!
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2005, 01:08 PM
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Hey finally you pull the trigger!!! Good for you will enjoy it! I love the way swb W126's drive.

As far as the coolant tank don't worry about it unless the level is going down. I am extremly picky and anal about maintaince and even mine isn't filled exactly up. As long as their is coolant in the tank you are fine.

When you do change the plugs make sure to use the proper ones. Get the no resistor copper ones. I got a set for an S320 from the dealer for $2.50 each, the dealer was cheaper then the autopart stores!
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2005, 07:24 PM
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Yeah Hat, I finally did it I guess. You know I have been looking for one for a while and kept hesitating. I was just always afraid of buying a moneypit. I am unfamiliar with Mercedes mechanicals, so this site will come in extremely useful I am sure.

I finally found this 380 and it seems to be a good car. I just hope so. I came close to buying a 84' 500SEL instead, but I was not able to make the trip to look at it. I figured I would go with this 380SE, because it seemed like a better deal and in addition, the owner was willing to deliver for a very low fee and this 380 probably gets better fuel mileage.

Good deal on the spark plugs. I will phone the dealer tomorrow to see how much they are there. Thanks for that tip.

I will probably be getting it Saturday night and will take some photos of it on Sunday and post them here. The ones I have now are from the previous owner and does not show all that much.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
Hey finally you pull the triggers!!! Good for you will enjoy it! I love the way swb W126's drive.

As far as the coolant tank don't worry about it unless the level is going down. I am extremly picky and anal about maintaince and even mine isn't filled exactly up. As long as their is coolant in the tank you are fine.

When you do change the plugs make sure to use the proper ones. Get the no resistor copper ones. I got a set for an S320 from the dealer for $2.50 each, the dealer was cheaper then the autopart stores!
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  #11  
Old 12-01-2005, 08:47 PM
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If you have any questons ask away. I don't know to much about the old M116 V8. I parted out a 420SEL last year so I know what they look like!

But I know the W126 itself top to bottom.
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  #12  
Old 12-03-2005, 11:19 PM
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Got the Mercedes...... (finally I own one)

Thanks Hat. I am sure I will have. The car was delivered tonight and from what I can tell, I am pleased with the car. It made the 3 1/2 hour drive without a hitch according to the previous owner. I have not even driven it. They met me at my work and followed me home. I did get in the passenger seat and rode up the driveway (which one part is a steep hill) and it seemed like it will have very ample power for me. He said that the car used a little over a 1/4 tank of gasoline on the trip over here, so I hope this mileage stays like this. I did hear it idle and it seemed to have a bit of a splutter from the exhaust, but I am hoping that the new plugs and a tune-up will cure this. The engine did run quietly. EVERYTHING works save for the left rear window and the front passenger window (which seems to be the windows on these cars that has often seems to have problems). Also, the antenna will not retract, but he gave me a new one to install. The door locks work too, which I thought was interesting. The interior condition is excellent, except the material on the driver "B" pillar is torn, another common spot on these cars. It does indeed have that dash cover I was referring to in another post. I am wondering the condition of the actual dash pad underneath. The coolant level was fine when it arrived and he assured me it never went past 80*C (it stayed a little below 1/2 way) even going over the mountain grades over here. He said he has never had to add oil between oil changes - he said it did not burn oil. I checked under it closely and there are NO leaks of anykind (which is a blessing to me). I have had oil leaking cars in the past and it is very frustrating. I could not find one speck of rust, even the undercarriage is perfect. The only exception is a very small bubble under the paint above the RR fenderwell, which I will have fixed ASAP. Fenderwells are clean in front and rear and I checked that body mount area as well and it looks like new. Paint is a bit dull in places, but I do not care about that. As far as the body and interior goes, I am very happy with this car. I just hope mechanically it serves me as well for many years. I am going to check it out closer tomorrow and take photos. I am anxious to know if the heat-A/C controls work properly on this car, as I know this is another trouble spot on these cars. He said the heat was hot and the A/C was cold. Hopefully the "modes" work properly.

Well, I could not wait to take photos and yes it was dark.
Very low quality photos, but I will post better ones tomorrow.

Thanks again!
Attached Thumbnails
Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-img00001.jpg   Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-img00002.jpg   Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-img00005.jpg   Engine power on a 380SE ?  Good?  Also "coolant" level question-img00006.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 12-04-2005, 12:48 AM
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Check your fuses for that window problem, they are paired but opposite sides ie L front & R rear, R front & L rear, sounds like a fuse has gone.

As a good thing to do just change all the fuses.

Good luck with the car, sounds good.

I have a SWB and they handle (IMO) better than the LWB.

Cheers
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Old 12-04-2005, 12:54 AM
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Thanks 420SE. I will check those fuses.
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  #15  
Old 12-04-2005, 01:04 AM
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Lets just say the 380SE gathers speed in a dignified manner. Its not fast, but it has no problem keeping up with traffic.

If you have AC/heat register problems, a likely cause might be one, or several, of the vacuum change-over valves which are located to the right of the radio. They are powered all the time so its not surprising that a couple would fail. If the heat fluctuates widely, a likely culprit is the air sampler fan to the right of the glovebox. That too is powered all the time.

Stumbling idle is fairly common. If you are handy, invest in a multimeter with a duty-cycle reading to check on the O2 sensor and idle mixture. Also a CIS fuel pressure tester will pay for itself in one use, to test system and control pressures. There are lots of little tricks to avoid spending big bucks. This is a DIY vehicle for the most part. Lots of good info in the mercedesshop archives too.

Good luck with your car. Mines a daily driver and its great.

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