I'm getting ready to do the front/rear pads, front rotors, and a fluid flush on my '87 300E. In going through the Shopforum posts and the manual, I had a couple of questions come up:

1. On the front calipers, there are a bunch of self-locking bolts that secure the pads and the calipers. The pad kit doesn't come with replacements. Is it okay to reuse the bolts, and just put thread-lock compound on them?

2. Should I flush the brake fluid before doing the pads and rotors, or do it after?

3. What do you guys do with used brake fluid anyways? The local parts stores only recycle engine oil.

4. The manual doesn't mention using brake pad paste on the early 300E brakes, only the later ones. Should I just use some anyways?

Any other tips for a first-timer? I hear the caliper bolts are a real bear to break loose.

Thanks,
Anthony

arent any bolts to remove in pad replacement. only if doing calipers or rotors. flush before or after i dont see much difference. i just put the old fluid in a brake fluid container and send it to the landfill. dont know if that is legal or not, but it is gone.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Get a list of all the torque specifications. caliper mounting bolts shouldn't be too difficult if the car is properly supported.

I your doing pads and rotors, when you press the caliper piston back in to make room for the new pads, you can open up the bleeder screw at that time to release brake fluid/pressure, and at that time bleed the line since your there with the wheel off.

With the newer cars caliper bolts can only be torqued once - so I would buy new caliper bolts for your car - also a new rotor locating screw which I assume your car takes.

Many districts throughout the country have hazardous disposal fluid locations - usually a local government web site will have info. I never liked to dispose of hazardous liquids at the landfill.

Brake paste - made for brakes - applied to hub and mounting surfaces is good procedure.

Don't clean pads or rotors with brake fluid.

Brake in the new pads by making 30 mild stops spaced two minutes apart form 30mph.

have you viewed the DIY section at the top of Shopforum section?

Some parts stores take only motor oil, others take any petroleum based fluid, which they have to pay a little more to have picked up. Shop around and you might find someone who will take brake fluid.

and emphasize.

you dont need to remove any bolts to change pads!!!!!!!!

tom w

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the responses. Tom: re the bolts, at least on my car, the front calipers are different. Instead of being held in by pins and a spring clip, the piston housing is held in by a bolt, and swings up for pad removal. The rear calipers are like the ones in the MBShop DIY, but the front ones aren't.

I don't have my digital camera with me, but when I get around to doing these I'll try to remember to take pictures.

Anthony

I don't worry about opening the bleeder screw before retracting the pistons on my own cars for the simple reason that I religiously and thoroughly flush my brakes at least annually.

If I had a dirty system, I would THOROUGHLY flush the brakes prior to changing the pads and then leave the reservoir level low for the retraction process, then top off afterwards.

Good luck,

Where can this "bleeder" be purchased? At any auto part store?

Can someone give me some details on changing out these pads?

I am confused.

Thanks!