transmission filter change - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bwheitman · #16 12-31-2005, 09:28 AM

there are a couple of things you should do when replacing the fluid. As mentioned before you remove the drain plug from the converter, and remove the pan. You should visit the dealer and purchase a new drain plug, and if you remove the plug in the pan get one of those too, you should also purchase the Dipstick tool as well to do it right. This trans does not require syn fluid, Dex III is the best. Remove the pan, replace the filter, install the pan, start at the center and work your way out on the bolts, replace drain plugs, install dipstick. Typical drain and fill including converter is 6.3 quarts. I usually put in 5.5, drive around the block, (gently) then check it after running through all the gears. If the fluid has never been changed before, I would change it, drive it for a few days or about 200 miles, and then change it again. The reason for this is because when you put in new fluid the detergent loosens all the buildup, if you don't change it again it will clog the trans. If you already have shifing problems you may need some work in the valve body. These trans are very simple and easy to work on, they will last a long time if taken care of. The biggest cause of problems is inaccurate fluid level, and if you don't have a dipstick and it is leaking, you probably have too little as this will cause slipping.
Good luck!
Brian

Kestas · #17 12-31-2005, 12:22 PM

Good followup by Brian. I would add that when the pan is off, it should be cleaned of the silt buildup on the bottom.

I don't understand why you recommend replacing the drain bolts. They only need new washers, which comes with the kit.

bwheitman · #18 12-31-2005, 12:43 PM

I always replace my drain bolts cause I am afraid they will strip out, just me I guess, But you are correct, if there is no damage done while removing you could use the same plugs and replace the rings.

Smokiesman · #19 12-31-2005, 05:12 PM

Well hell I may as well put in my 2 cents!

I to am getting ready for oil and tranny change . Question is there a drain plug for the converter on the 4.2 V8 ?

Tanks and whats with jumping of the timing chain? Or is that something on the 6cyl?

Smokie

sokoloff · #20 12-31-2005, 06:28 PM

Torque converter drain plugs disappeared in about September, 1999.

Len

bwheitman · #21 12-31-2005, 07:27 PM

I don't think I have ever seen specific MB trans fluid for a 722.5 or earlier trans? I went to the dealer and purchased my filter kit and asked for fluid, they gave me Dexron III mobil trans fluid, Is there such a thing as MB fluid for the trans? I know I get it for my soft top, my rear end, and my brakes, but I have not seen trans fluid from MB? Maybe the dealer is just giving me the easy stuff?
Brian

86560SEL · #22 12-31-2005, 09:28 PM

That is discouraging enough to make me not even want to change mine the first time, because I am lucky to get it even changed once. I do not think mine is that bad however, because the fluid does not look that bad, actually it looks OK, but I have no idea when it was last changed.

The only reason I am changing mine is because of that "slamming" into gear when the car is warmed up. After it warms up, I often have to place it in "D" or "R" with my foot off of the brake, or else it slams in gear and the engine stalls.

Otherwise, the shifts are perfect.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwheitman

If the fluid has never been changed before, I would change it, drive it for a few days or about 200 miles, and then change it again. The reason for this is because when you put in new fluid the detergent loosens all the buildup, if you don't change it again it will clog the trans.

memario213 · #23 01-03-2006, 01:46 PM

im getting started on filter change i have a problem with the alarm heres the link http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=141499

memario213 · #24 01-03-2006, 05:33 PM

so i have the pan off and i drained the torque converter (not to much oil came out of it), im just letting it fully drain. the oil looks pretty clean but i think it was changed before i bought it at 121,500 miles (i know have 123,500). the filter is dirty.

when i had the transmission checked by my mechanic he said he thought the syilnoyd might be out but he couldnt diagonis it with the computer because he didnt have the connections for the car. is there any way to check the m or look to see if they are bad, now that the pan is off???

memario213 · #25 01-03-2006, 09:37 PM

i did the filter and oil change on the transmission and i figured out to get the car started and now another problem.

(i was trying to get the door issue fixed while the warmed up)the car is on at idle and im standing in the back of the car and the exhaust sounds weird (at this point the car has been on for almost 10 minutes). i thought maybe because it hasnt been on in about a month or more. the engine then sounds like it wants to shut off so i give a little rev and it stays on, i disconected the negative post from the battery to see if the car would turn off and the rear lights start dimming a bit so i connected back, a few seconds after the car starts to sound as if it wants to shut off then exhaust starts sounding weird again and then the car turns off with a popping noise after from the exhaust (i dont know if this is called backfiring).

i tried restarting the car but it sounds like it doesn't crank over??? sounds like it wants to turn on but doesnt crank???

any suggestions on what to start checking???

thanks in advance

bwheitman · #26 01-03-2006, 09:50 PM

First of all don't ever disconnect the battery while the car is running, that really freaks out a benz! I used to do that on my old cars to determine if the alternator was working, but on a benz if you do it you can really mess something up. If you had it at idle, then after it warmed up and started missing, that sounds to me like a vac leak. The computer will try to compensate by adjusting in and out the TBA and if it can not the engine will die. It will also go into limp mode. Check your vac lines, especially the one that goes right into the firewall from the engine's intake manifold. After you determine if there are no vac leaks go to the basics, fuel and ignition. Is the engine cranking now? Did you just buy this car or something? Seems like you are having a lot of trouble. Be patient, after you get the bugs worked out you will love the car, take your time and don't get in a hurry, they are easy to work on and usually nothing major goes wrong unless they are neglected or someone repairs them incorrectly. Good luck.
Brian

memario213 · #27 01-03-2006, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwheitman

First of all don't ever disconnect the battery while the car is running, that really freaks out a benz! I used to do that on my old cars to determine if the alternator was working, but on a benz if you do it you can really mess something up. If you had it at idle, then after it warmed up and started missing, that sounds to me like a vac leak. The computer will try to compensate by adjusting in and out the TBA and if it can not the engine will die. It will also go into limp mode. Check your vac lines, especially the one that goes right into the firewall from the engine's intake manifold. After you determine if there are no vac leaks go to the basics, fuel and ignition. Is the engine cranking now? Did you just buy this car or something? Seems like you are having a lot of trouble. Be patient, after you get the bugs worked out you will love the car, take your time and don't get in a hurry, they are easy to work on and usually nothing major goes wrong unless they are neglected or someone repairs them incorrectly. Good luck.
Brian

im going outside to check it out??

memario213 · #28 01-03-2006, 11:26 PM

i didnt find any leaking vac lines. so i just tried starting again not expecting for it to start and it did.
the first try it started so i took off the the intake part and looked for vac leaks and after the car turned off about a minute later i hear a clicking noise coming from the upper right side of the car to the lower right of the master cylider and brake booster, there was a cover with a screw in the center i took it off under it there is a switch that can be moved up and down and there are some relays next to it i dont know what this is but the clicking noise was coming from here (its were i could feel it).
another try and it still feels like it wants to turn off so i rev the gas to 1500 rpm steady and if i let go it would shut off with a popping noise.
i started it again and looking at my gauges my ASR and ABS lights are on.

i dont know if this means my ASR isnt working or what? or if this even has anything to do with the car be this way?? but when i bought the car the man told me that he had replaced ASR module because it wasnt working. i put it in drive and the car vibrates like crazy wanting to shut off, so i with the brakes down i rev the car a bit then after put it in park without reving it and the car shuts off with a popping noise from the exhaust.

i dont know what to do with this car anymore i tried to be patinet with it and take my time but it just keeps hitting me in the back of my head with a bat.

please i would appercaite any suggestions.

thanks

bwheitman · #29 01-04-2006, 08:13 AM

From what it sounds like it is your Throttle Body Actuator. This causes the ASR and ABS light to come on. Have you replaced the harness in that car yet? It is a 93 so it will need one. Check the wires, especially the ones that go to the TBA. Do a search on TBA and you will find links on how to test and send them in for rebuild. It could be your Harness causing the TBA to fail, but a failing harness can damage the TBA too.
One thing that is of concern is the it sounds like you have some clicking relays too, the 93 has those goofy fuses, take each one out, inspect it, clean the ends, make sure you have no bad fuses as this will cause relay malfunction and can effect your engine controls as well.
Was the car running when you brought it home? You said you just let it sit and now this? You may have to spend some time on it, can you reach the prior owner to find out if the harness has been replaced? just curious, good luck!
Brian

memario213 · #30 01-06-2006, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwheitman

From what it sounds like it is your Throttle Body Actuator. This causes the ASR and ABS light to come on. Have you replaced the harness in that car yet? It is a 93 so it will need one. Check the wires, especially the ones that go to the TBA. Do a search on TBA and you will find links on how to test and send them in for rebuild. It could be your Harness causing the TBA to fail, but a failing harness can damage the TBA too.
One thing that is of concern is the it sounds like you have some clicking relays too, the 93 has those goofy fuses, take each one out, inspect it, clean the ends, make sure you have no bad fuses as this will cause relay malfunction and can effect your engine controls as well.
Was the car running when you brought it home? You said you just let it sit and now this? You may have to spend some time on it, can you reach the prior owner to find out if the harness has been replaced? just curious, good luck!
Brian

no contact with the previous owner.
the car was running when i bought it but need minor work like shocks and a wax. but for some reason i suspected i was going to be in for a long ride.

today i started it up and it turned on fine (my ASR and ABS lights didn't stay on), so i drove it around the block and it seems to be running fine then i come to a stop and then hit the gas and the car doesnt respond poorly. the rpm went up to 2000 and its feels like the car is not getting any power, so i let go of the gas and quicky put my foot on the gas again and then it responds correctly, this thing went on and off with the response. i pull up to my house to check the oil level but i couldnt really read it, i walk around the car and it starts sounding a little shakey from underneath, when istand in the back of the car next to the exhaust tips it sounds weird kind of like a THSSS THSSS THSSS (like it wants to die out) and then the exhaust makes a lound popping noise, i then get in the car to put it away before it die's on me and when i put it in drive it shuts off.

do you know what this might be.
my mechanic (or anyone else in town) doesn't have the plug-ins to diaginose the car, and the mercedes dealer is 35 miles away.

with my options what do you suggest i do???

i appreciate all the help you and everyone else have given me so far.

thanks