Just purchased a 1994 E420 with 126,000 miles. The owner had replaced the Wiring Harness and a few other details but the shop inspection did discover a few issues. I've helped my Brother a bit with his Rover but otherwise I have no DIY experience. Still I wouldn't mind learning, of the following issues what are plausible?

These are the issues as noted on the inspection report.



Heater AC Operation - Runs Strong. Push button operation doesn't work. Vent Switch defrost to floor etc (525 P/l)

Brake Fluid - Needs to be flushed (100 P/L)

Engine - Right bank starting to leak (225 P/L)

Cooling System - Cooling System not reaching operating temp soon enough (300 P/L)

Drive Axels - Minor leak in rear differential/axle seal (550 P/L)

Mufflers - Leak at rear muffler will need replacing for emissions (575 P/L)

Tie Rods - Drag link looks new not tie rods. (Tie Rods + Alignment 450 P/l)

Shocks/Struts - Rear shock bumps tops deteriorating.

Wheel Bearings - Needs Adjustment (Wheel bearings adjustment + repair 425 P/L)


So what of the above do you think a first timer could manage?

Your first DIY act should be to get another assessment of the car. This one looks a little fishy. Secondly get the service CD on Ebay. Also get the Haynes manual (303-237-0911) which doesn't cover the V8 engine but does cover the rest of the car very nicely and also rates each job by degree of difficultly. With those two sources and this forum you'll be amazed at how much you can do. It is very unlikely the car actually needs all that work anytime soon.

Roger, and thanks

Thanks... it was my first time at the shop so being wary is probably correct. Hopefully my neighbor is home this week (he's a contract pilot), if so he can take a look at it.

The Alignment is probably genuine. The previous owner hit a curb and ruined a tire. He said he went to Goodyear to get it fixed, I assume they just threw a tire on. I'll have to check the receipt. He said the car did drift "ever so slightly" if you left the wheel alone on a long stretch. My only issue right now is it sways a bit in turns, which I suppose is the stock supension/swaybar?

Is this the correct Haynes manual?

Yes, it says 93 but is good for the 94/95s, the changes for which were mostly cosmetic. As mentioned it does not cover the V8 but I think is still worth having for the rest of the car.

I agree...Get another person to look at the car.

Why on earth would someone replace the links and not the ends?? It's not like the assemblies are expensive.

You can do the front sway bar bushings yourself - if you feel that the car has too much roll. (the bushings are fairly cheap and easy to put in).

The touchiest things that I can think of (besides the harness), are the caps and rotors (they do not like to get old at all), and there is this wire that goes to a fan resistor, that they skimped on it gauge wise, so it can burn out at the connector.

Do a search for reading the codes...with some luck you have the pushbutton LED light feature and you can read some diagnostic codes yoursel (especially after building an inexpensive code reader).

I find that the diagnosis of the engine not reaching operating temperature is ..well...it's weird. Either the thermostat is stuck open/missing, or it's not.

Have fun with the car!

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09 Jetta TDI
1985 300D

Don't forget the chain. On the V-8's the chain starts to stretch and will fail eventually. They say 100K, don't go past 150K, and if you are smart you'll do it soon. Once the chain starts slapping around inside, it will damage the rails, badly. This I know first hand, and the bottom rails are major work to R&R.

Course, now I have a new engine!

Larry mentioned the harness, which might also bear with replacement, just on principle. If you are patient, you could DIY.

The other thing I replaced on mine was the crank sensor. My car would die at odd moments, restart. $100 part, you could do easily with a manual.

Find a good independent mechanic, and go through the car at your own pace. It does sound like that guy sees $$$ in a new used car owner.

Look around here, plenty of info for you. Best of luck. Aside from the gas mileage, these cars are lots of fun, good highway cars, a classic chassis.

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Peter
1985 300TD 4-speed 212K
1992 400E 343K
2001 E320 72K

That's alot of work the car needs asap. Looks like the last owner didn't baby this S Class, I say pawn it off on someone else before it becomes your money pit. For the amount of money and time it needs spent on it asap, its not going to be a brand new car at the end of it and will need repairs with its due time.

You're better off buying a mercedes someones babied and paying more , as this car will cost you as much to look after as your first year worth of payments(if that's the case).

You should do the wheel bearings yourself. There's no rocket science there, and $425 is ridiculous. However, my guess is that they're fine - do them at the next brake rotor change. The only pain in the ass I had on my 124 was trying to put on a new grease cap - so try not to damage the existing one.

Have the tie rod ends checked again, unless you can feel the wear (e.g., when going over a bump sideways, like when merginig onto some interstates). If replacing them restores firmness, leave the wheel bearings alone.

The differential leak is possibly just oil from the vent. Top up the level to make sure you have enough and then watch it for a few weeks. You need the right size hex wrench.

The rest sounds like stuff to ignore until it really breaks.
Tom

the tie rod ends may have been replaced earlier.

the only legitamate thing on that list is the muff leak.

this guy probably wouldnt be able to identify a real problem on your mb and his prices are way high.

find a good mb specializing indy and learn to do the simple things yourself.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

That, and the brake fluid replacement, depending on how recently it was done. Mercedes does call for this every 2 years.

There is a specific forum on this website for recommended local mechanics. Do a search on that forum and see if there is someone good near you.

the mechanic. If he was asked to do a PPI, he was probably being thorough and listing some things that will NEED to be done but not necessarily immediately.

I will agree though that his prices seem way high (relative to Houston anyway) and a couple of things don't sound right (slow to reach operating temp? and $300 to fix?...hmmm). The brake fluid item was probably just a visual for color is my guess.

All the help you need (besides a manual or two) can be found here if you want to become competent at DIY or at a minimum, stick around for sufficient knowledge and understanding so you don't get ripped off when paying for maint/repairs.

Best of luck to ya
Kevin

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"Dangerous with a wrench...and not smart enough to know it"

Stable (in order of acqusition):
'84 500SL, 280SEL (Euros)
'77 280SE. '90 560SEL
'79 450SEL 6.9,
'95 C280 (totalled by daughter 8/07)
'81 280SL (rescued) '88 300CE
'86 560SEC '95 C36
'01 CL55

DD's: '04 S500 4Matic (SWMBO)
'04 F150 Crew