95 E320 - Test results help please. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tomjode · #1 09-30-2006, 04:19 AM

I have replaced the wiring harness on my 1995 E320 Cabriolet. Also I replaced the wiring on the Electronic Acelerator. I am having an issue(s) that I am hoping someone can help me with.

When I turn the key to on the EA makes a loud click, also I can feel the throttle pedal move right before the click of the EA.

I am able to start the car by pressing the pedal just as it fires. I also have to use the pedal to keep it running.
I am having to push the pedal beyond halfway down to get the throttle to respond.
Once it warms up it wants to idle around 4-500 RPM.

The car can then be driven although the shift points are high, 5500 RPM from 2nd to 3rd. I usually let off the pedal and it will shift. Downshifting does not seem to be a problem.

The Check Engine light comes on a day or so after clearing codes. The ASR light is always on.

I have pulled the following codes,

Pin 3 =
6 - Idle speed control faulty
Pin 8 =
8 - Idle speed control (ISC) system at upper or lower control stop or
CC or EA indicates "limp home" mode.
Pin 14 =
3 - Right EA/CC/ISC actuator (left cylinder bank)(M16/1)
11 - Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control
module (HFM-SFI).
Fuel safety shut-off to engine control module (HFM-SFI)
14 - Closed throttle position contact switch

I cleared the codes but they came back the next day. Each time I clear them the same ones show up daily.

I then decided to do testing using the AllData EA Test Steps from the Trouble Code Diagnostic Charts.

I copied and edited the steps to show my results and notes. These are included as 4 attachments to this request. I apologize for the attachments being a bit blurry. Resizing issues..........

Tests used were 2-10 and 19. The results of test 5-9 were within the Nomian Values listed on the charts.
Number 19 was not good. The results seem almost backwards!
Tests 2-4 were within range of the nominal values but are curious in that if I switched the results they would be more realistic(closer) to what I would expect to see. I am probably misinterpreting the data!
Test 10 was 0v although at first it was 14v then quickly went to 9v and finally to 0v. I am thinking this is fallout from the other results.

I almost seems like I have the Closed Throttle and Wide Open Throttle signals reversed. I did replace the Closed Throttle Sensor in the gas pedal assembly.

Any help or insight would be appreciated. Hopefully I have not provided to messy of a description of my troubles!!!

Take Care
Tom

Pete Geither · #2 09-30-2006, 06:59 AM

If Arthur Dalton sees this he'll fix you up in a hurry.

david s poole · #3 09-30-2006, 10:31 AM

after all this work you need a mercedes scanner to reset the adaptions[which will relearn the throttle position.

JimF · #4 09-30-2006, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomjode

I have replaced the wiring harness on my 1995 E320 Cabriolet. Also I replaced the wiring on the Electronic Acelerator. I am having an issue(s) that I am hoping someone can help me with.

The Check Engine light comes on a day or so after clearing codes. The ASR light is always on.

I have pulled the following codes,

Pin 3 =
6 - Idle speed control faulty
Pin 8 =
8 - Idle speed control (ISC) system at upper or lower control stop or
CC or EA indicates "limp home" mode.
Pin 14 =
3 - Right EA/CC/ISC actuator (left cylinder bank)(M16/1)
11 - Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control
module (HFM-SFI).
Fuel safety shut-off to engine control module (HFM-SFI)
14 - Closed throttle position contact switch
\
Any help or insight would be appreciated. Hopefully I have not provided to messy of a description of my troubles!!!

Check out MENU#24 on my page for a similar problem. . . in fact it's pretty much identical. The culprit was the "ETA", Electronic Throttle Actuator, not the EA.

Another area to check is the "wiring harness"; check for frayed wires, etc.

tomjode · #5 09-30-2006, 05:48 PM

Thanks for the responses folks!

What is the difference between an Electronic Throttle Acuator(ETA) and a Electronic Accelerator(EA)?

Thanks again,
Tom

JimF · #6 09-30-2006, 07:29 PM

There's a lot of info on my pages . . . .sugest you READ the various menus . . . it's all there.

Or would you like to be spoon fed????

Hint: check out #9

tomjode · #7 09-30-2006, 11:33 PM

Hello,

Jim, I apologize if I came off like a lazy whiner.

I have had your site bookmarked for 2+ years and have read it several times! It was one of the first good insights I got on the whole EA ETA challenge. In fact I would say that good ole #24 inspired me to make a shot at fixing my ETA. I figured worse case I get a new or rebuilt one. The photos are awesome. I knew that when it was opened up I probably would not get hit by flying springs or have some insanely complicated widget fall out that would never find its way back in(if I found were it landed!). Your contributions here are awesome. I feel like a heel, being spanked by one of the people you hope will respond to a request. Arghhhhhhhhhh

What really stinks is that I KNOW the difference between an EA(module) and an ETA(throttle assembly). OH wellllllllllllll!

=======================================

The readaptation part of this project is confusing. I have tried at least 3 different plans with no luck. one was clearing codes(pin 8 & 14) then holding the button for 8-10 seconds to reset. key off 9 seconds, key on 10 seconds, then start. As a side note all my code gathering and resetting has been done with the very COOL homemade code reader I built using plans from JimF and Arthur Dalton on this forum!! Another plan I tried after I had the battery disconnected for a couple of days was key on for 2-3 minutes(or more some say) then start. Yet another was a complicated driving scenario which I printed and followed with no luck. I may be off in some of the above numbers but I have them saved so when the time came I could refer back.

Maybe it is time to head in and have someone use the MBZ scanner to do its magic! Dang, it feel like the end is so close, some stupid thing I have overlooked, a crossed wire, that sticky WOT switch, the cable adjustments.....

On the other hand it has been one of the most interesting car projects I have attempted! With forums, MBZ CD's and AllData there certainly has not been a lack of good information. Yikes! I think I just wrote my obituary on this deal.

Not really though!!!

Take Care............I gotta go take a spoon out my A_ _ !!
Tom

Arthur Dalton · #8 10-01-2006, 12:23 AM

Memory reset is after you get a Code '1" to appear. You want to hold the switch no more than 6-7 secs , max. I find key off for 10, on for 50 secs and then restart brings the memory back to mean adaptation.

Your codes may be cable slack is too tight or cable is binding .. I like at least 1/4' end play for cable at rest/idle position to allow full closure of CTP sw.............

JimF · #9 10-01-2006, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomjode

The readaptation part of this project is confusing. I have tried at least 3 different plans with no luck. one was clearing codes(pin 8 & 14) then holding the button for 8-10 seconds to reset. key off 9 seconds, key on 10 seconds, then start.

Maybe it is time to head in and have someone use the MBZ scanner to do its magic! Dang, it feel like the end is so close, some stupid thing I have overlooked, a crossed wire, that sticky WOT switch, the cable adjustments.....
Tom

Just giving you a little poke in the right direction.

My only comment is that resetting the S/A to 'nominal' won't make any differnce in the driving as far as what you are experiencing. As you described, those are 'real' ETA problems. Now the source could be the wiring harness, or possibly that the ETA isn't really fixed?? Hard to say.

You could have it 'checked' by Beckmann or somebody who is qualified to check it out. If it's bad, they can certainly can repair it. If it's OK, then that may point you in a new direction.

It's a tough problem and a big PITA!!!

tomjode · #10 10-04-2006, 07:05 PM

Thank you for the responses!

I am glad to hear that resetting the S/A would be nominal! I did'nt know why mind you, but it felt like a desperation move.

Having Beckmanns check out the ETA is going to have to be my choice after a few more attempts. I need to make sure they will look at it since I have opened the unit up and futzed(?) around with the wiring. The results of my potentiometer tests(steps 3-5 from the AllData Ea/CC/ISC procedures) still nag at me.

The Throttle cable is a real good thought. I have adjusted it several times. I know I do not have 1/4 inch play. I have read several threads on having a good amount of play in the line. It is slack but not enough!

Also I have tried removing the throttle cable twice but can't get it to move once I detatch the cable on both ends. There is a large rubber gromet on the inside firewall that has the look of a nut(indentations around it). I have read that working from the inside you press the cable outward being careful not to press the gromet out, well I ca't get it to move at all! Is there a secret to getting it started? Maybe alittle lubricant or dish soap. Perhaps a gentle twist since it looks like there are grips.

After I get it adjusted I will reset the codes like Arthur wrote and give it a whirl. The key off for 10 and on for 50 seconds is worth a shot. I will also get my watch and make sure on the 6-7 seconds.

I was out of town for a couple of days and it time to do a little more battle with this crazy car!

Once again, Thanks much for your trusted input.

Tom

mbdoc · #11 10-05-2006, 08:21 AM

Start by making sure that the throttle actuator lever return to its stop & that the linkage allows it to stay there..

Disconnect the ball-socket linkage & make sure as it is connected the "EA lever" stays at the stop.

DID you get new, used, OR reman throttle actuator?