On my E320 (yr 2000) one of the bulbs that illuminates the main instrument panel read-out (odometer etc.) seems to be out. How difficult is that to be replaced? Is it easily accesible if that black protective under-cover is removed?

You need to do a search. This has been covered many, many, MANY times before.

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2012 E350 Bluetech

You have to pull the cluster out, disconnect it and relace the affected bulb.
You can sometimes get the cluster out by brute force by grabbing the very far side of it with your fingers and or getting a tool behind the lower corners of the cluster to wiggle it out side by side.
Make sure the steering wheel is positioned all the way out and down.
Once the cluster is out,key off, then reach in behind to remove the connectors from cluster.
They have a goofy locking tab that you have to press down to pivot the connector hold down clip out of the way to release the connector.

It's not necessary to disconnect the wires on my '96 to replace the bulbs. There is just enough room to move the cluster to the right and invert it to get to the bulbs.

Not that disconnecting the panel is difficult, but if you do, make sure that you DO NOT turn the ignition switch to the on position while the panel is disconnected.

Since you are replacing the bulbs anyway try a set of Xenon dash light bulbs for your W124. I just put a set in my W126. What an improvement!

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