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  #1  
Old 10-31-2006, 06:45 PM
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Has anyone used guide rod repair kit for w126?

Has anyone done this using this kit ?http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/tayco/wizard.jsp?partner=tayco&clientid=alloemautoparts.com&baseurl=http://www.alloemautoparts.com/&cookieid=1L50P99K01XM13UC09&year=1986&make=MB&model=420-SEL-001&category=L&part=Guide+Rod+Repair+Kit

John

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  #2  
Old 10-31-2006, 06:48 PM
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Yup..it's a bit involved getting to all the pieces though.

Jonathan
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  #3  
Old 10-31-2006, 07:02 PM
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Is it easy or hard?

Does one have to remove the suspension bearing bracket to do this?

John
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  #4  
Old 10-31-2006, 07:05 PM
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I did when I did it..you also need to remove the spring and the spring perch.

Jonathan
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Specializing in all pre and post merger AMG's including Hammers and DOHC M117 engines.
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  #5  
Old 10-31-2006, 09:00 PM
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If your caster/strut rod bushings are bad... may want to check the main part of it out that attached to the subframe mounts.
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'85 300SD 245k
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  #6  
Old 10-31-2006, 11:54 PM
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You have to remove the spring and the plate it rests on. The proper spring compressor is available for rent from members of this forum. Check the DIY section. Insert the plates at the top and bottom of the spring. Use vice grips to hold the lower part of the spring to the spring plate. Insert the threaded rod through the top of the upper spring perch in the engine compartment. Screw the rod together until the lower points of the rod mate with the dimples on the underside of the lower plate and the upper plate contacts the upper part of the rod. Screw the rod together using a 1/2" drive ratcher, never air tools, until the spring is compressed and you can remove it. The use of vice grips will become apparent, the spring will rotate.

Since you want to replace those bushings, I strongly recommend replacing the pair of large rubber bushings in the L shaped bracket and the bushing internal to it, at the other end of the rod, on both sides.

Check the ball joints and if necessary replace them too. the uppers are fairly easy, the lowers require a special tool. Take the spindles to a repair place that has the tool and get them pressed in.

To remove the spindle, remove the rotor/hub and caliper. Don't let the caliper hang by the hose. Bend a coathanger and use that if necessary. Undo the joint first and use a large puller to seperate it. Then, undo the bolts for the steering arm, pull the top of the spindle towards you and use the puller to pop the lower ball joint.

The upper control arm/ball joint on the drivers side is a PITA, the bolt must be removed towards the brake lines and booster. There is not much room. Some others, including me, insert the bolt from front to rear.

Check this thread:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=130972

or this one:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=91934
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  #7  
Old 11-01-2006, 12:35 AM
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Yes

However the FastLane part is cheaper, and they support this forum.
This is the perfect time to replace the lower control arm bushing and Eccentric Pin.

Loosen the front wheel bolts.
Raise and support the front end.
Remove the front tire.
Remove the spring, special spring compressor required.
Remove the lower shock absorber bolts.
Separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
Mark the position, and remove the Eccentric Pin from the lower control arm.
Separate the lower control arm from the body.
Remove the lower spring seat plate from the lower control arm.
Remove the Guide rod to control arm mount bolt.
Remove the lower control arm from the car.
Remove the Guide rod mount bushings, and clean the mounting area.
Remove both of the inner control arm bushing caps.
Drive out the old inner control arm bushing.
Install the new inner control arm bushing.
Install the new inner control arm bushing caps, (a heavy thread or light fishing line works well).
Insert the guide rod into the lower control arm.
Use a floor jack to press the inner lower control arm into the body.
Use a large tapered punch to align the
Install the Eccentric Pin into the lower control arm, align it to the mark and tighten.
Install the Guide rod mount bushings.
Install the Guide rod to control arm mount bolt. (use LoctiteŽ thread adhesive)
Install the lower spring seat plate to the lower control arm. (use LoctiteŽ thread adhesive)
Install the spring, but do not release it yet.
Install the ball joint, and tighten. (use LoctiteŽ thread adhesive)
Install the lower shock absorber bolts. (use LoctiteŽ thread adhesive)
Release the spring compressor, and remove the tool.
Install front tire, and snug (best possible) wheel bolts.
Lower the car.
Torque all wheel bolts.

As an FYI, here are related W126 front suspension procedure DIY data links.
Suspension Guide Rod Replacement
on the 1985 300SD
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W126GuideRod
DIY Guide Rod replacement for Mercedes Benz 300SD.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=92874


PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES
Vehicle 1986 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
Part: Guide Rod Repair Kit
Note: Guide rod to control arm
L2070-16062 Guide Rod Repair Kit Lemforder IN STOCK

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1631144

PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES
Vehicle 1986 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
Part: Control Arm Bushing Kit
Note: lower inner
L2040-16578 Control Arm Bushing Kit Lemforder IN STOCK

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1624590


PART NUMBER SEARCH RESULTS WITH PRICES
Vehicle 1986 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
Part: Eccentric Pin Kit
Note: lower inner control arm
L2043-25529 Eccentric Pin Kit IN STOCK

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1624360

Last edited by whunter; 04-28-2009 at 01:50 PM.
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  #8  
Old 11-02-2006, 04:12 PM
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Posts: 222
why does the spring has to be remove to do this job?

On the w126, the advice is to remove the spring. Is this necessary? What would happen if I don't?

John

P.S. Yes, I will support Fastlane.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2006, 04:22 PM
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The front attachment of the guide rod is shielded by the lower spring perch. Not MB engineering's shining moment. The front attachment has bushings you should consider replacing if you're doing all that work on the rear attachment.

You can replace the big mount at the rear without touching the spring. You have to muscle the wheel forward though. Usually folks use a come-along on the lower control arm. If you trust yourself you can use a jack between the fender and the rear point of the wheel but remember that there is no park brake or parking pawl on the front wheels!

Sixto
93 300SD

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